🔧 Camry - Strut Replacement

On your Camry, the front suspension uses strut assemblies (a shock + coil spring in one unit). The rear uses separate shocks (no rear struts). Replacing worn struts/shocks restores ride comfort, handling, and braking stability.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours (front pair + rear shocks)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Use jack stands on solid, level ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of the coil spring when disassembling a front strut; a compressed spring stores a lot of energy.
• ⚠️ Avoid pulling/stretching the ABS wire and brake hose while the knuckle is loose.
• ⚠️ Hybrid caution: stay away from orange high-voltage cables; this job shouldn’t require touching them.
• 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses; rust and debris fall when bolts break loose.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench 3/8" (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set 3/8" drive (10mm-19mm)
• Socket set 1/2" drive (17mm-22mm)
• Deep socket 14mm
• Wrench set (14mm-19mm)
• Hex key set (metric)
• Pry bar
• Hammer (2-3 lb)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (external clamp style) (specialty)
• Strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounts (with bearing) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops and dust boots - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear upper shock mounts (if worn/cracked) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Sway bar end links (if loose or boots torn) - Optional - Qty: 2
• New self-locking nuts/bolts for strut-to-knuckle (if required by kit) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Spray penetrating oil on the front strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar link nuts 10-20 minutes before removal.
• Plan for an alignment: replacing front struts can change alignment. Get an alignment ASAP.
• Spring compressor note: a spring compressor is a clamp tool that safely squeezes the coil spring so the top mount can be removed.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the front

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" to loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the car and support it with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the front wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Disconnect brackets from the front strut

• Remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut using a 12mm socket. Torque to 29 Nm (21 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Remove any ABS wire clips from the strut using needle-nose pliers or a trim clip tool.

Step 3: Remove the sway bar end link from the strut

• Use a 17mm wrench (or 17mm socket) to remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut.
• If the stud spins, hold it with a hex key (metric) while turning the nut with a wrench set (14mm-19mm).
• Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and steering knuckle.
• This helps keep camber close until you get an alignment. Still get a real alignment.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the steering knuckle lightly with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop and pull the axle/hoses.
• Remove the two large lower bolts/nuts using 19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
• If stuck, tap the bolts out using a hammer (2-3 lb) while holding the knuckle steady with a pry bar.
• Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the strut assembly from the car

• Open the hood and locate the 3 top strut mount nuts.
• Hold the strut from below, then remove the 3 nuts using a 14mm deep socket.
• Lift the strut assembly out of the wheel well.

Step 7: Disassemble the old strut (spring transfer)

• Install the spring compressor (external clamp style) (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly using a socket set 3/8" drive (10mm-19mm).
• Compress until the spring is loose in the top mount. Compress only as much as needed.
• Remove the strut shaft top nut using a strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty) while holding the shaft with a hex key set (metric) (if needed).
• Remove the mount/bearing, dust boot, and bump stop.

Step 8: Assemble the new front strut

• Transfer or install new bump stop and dust boot onto the new strut.
• Set the spring onto the new strut, making sure the spring end sits in the pocket correctly.
• Install the strut mount (with bearing) in the same orientation as removed.
• Tighten the top shaft nut using the strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty).
• Slowly release the spring compressor (external clamp style) (specialty), alternating sides evenly.
• If anything looks crooked, recompress and reseat.

Step 9: Reinstall the front strut assembly

• Place the strut into the tower and hand-thread the 3 top nuts using a 14mm deep socket.
• Align the strut to the knuckle and insert the two lower bolts using a pry bar as needed.
• Tighten the lower bolts with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the top mount nuts with a torque wrench 3/8": Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
• Reconnect sway bar end link using 17mm wrench: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall brake hose bracket using 12mm socket: Torque to 29 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall ABS wire clips using needle-nose pliers or trim clip tool.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Rear shock replacement (rear suspension)

• Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks, then raise the rear and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove rear wheels using a 21mm socket.
• Open the trunk and pull back the side trim to access the rear shock top nuts using a trim clip tool.
• Support the rear suspension arm lightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar 1/2". Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Remove the upper shock nuts using a 14mm deep socket. Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Install the new shock, tighten upper nuts first, then the lower bolt with the suspension supported.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm nothing binds or pulls.
• Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench 1/2" after 25-50 miles.
• Get a front wheel alignment after replacing the front struts.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only, depending on brands)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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