How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Subaru Outback
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Subaru Outback
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
🔧 Outback - Shock/Strut Replacement
On your Outback, the front uses strut assemblies (shock + spring together) and the rear uses separate shocks. Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces tire cupping.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (all four corners)
Assumption: You’re replacing front struts + rear shocks (full set).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the Outback on jack stands only; never rely on a jack.
- ⚠️ If reusing front springs, a coil spring compressor is required; the spring is stored energy and can cause severe injury.
- ⚠️ Keep brake hoses and ABS wires unstressed; don’t let the knuckle hang by the hose.
- ⚠️ Use penetrating oil and go slow on rusty fasteners to avoid snapping studs/bolts.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (30–250 ft-lbs)
- 19mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 19mm wrench
- 17mm wrench
- Needle-nose pliers
- Flat trim tool
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Coil spring compressor (specialty)
- Pry bar (12–18")
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front strut assemblies (quick-struts recommended) - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorbers - Qty: 2
- Rear upper shock mount nuts (optional, if corroded) - Qty: 4
- Front strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts (optional, if corroded) - Qty: 4
- Sway bar end links (optional, if boots torn or seized) - Qty: 2 (front pair)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels (for front work) or front wheels (for rear work).
- Use a 19mm socket to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting.
- Spray penetrating oil on the front strut-to-knuckle bolts and rear lower shock bolts and let it soak 10–15 minutes.
- If you are not using complete front strut assemblies: a coil spring compressor is a tool that clamps the spring so it can be safely removed.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels
- Use a floor jack to lift the front (or rear) at the proper jack point.
- Set the vehicle down on jack stands.
- Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove the wheels.
Step 2: Front—disconnect brackets and sway bar link
- Use a 12mm socket to remove the ABS/brake hose bracket bolts from the strut body (don’t open the brake line).
- Use a 17mm wrench and 17mm socket to remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut (hold the stud if it spins).
- Tip: Support the knuckle so nothing pulls tight.
Step 3: Front—mark camber bolt position (if equipped)
- Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the upper strut-to-knuckle bolt and the knuckle.
- This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
Step 4: Front—remove strut-to-knuckle bolts
- Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen and remove the two large bolts/nuts that clamp the strut to the steering knuckle.
- Use a pry bar as needed to separate the strut from the knuckle.
Step 5: Front—remove top strut nuts and remove the strut
- Open the hood.
- Use a 14mm socket to remove the three top mounting nuts.
- Hold the strut with one hand as the last nut comes off, then remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
Step 6: Front—transfer spring (ONLY if not using quick-struts)
- Install the coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly until the spring is loose in the seats.
- Remove the top nut using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench (method varies by tool access).
- Move the spring and upper mount to the new strut, ensuring the spring end sits in the pocket correctly.
- Remove the compressor slowly and evenly.
- Tip: Quick-struts avoid this entire risk.
Step 7: Front—install the strut assembly
- Position the strut in the tower and hand-thread the top nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Slide the strut into the knuckle and install the two large bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
- Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
- Reinstall ABS/brake hose brackets using a 12mm socket.
- Torque (typical for this Outback—verify with OEM info): Strut-to-knuckle bolts ~175 Nm (129 ft-lbs); top mount nuts ~20 Nm (15 ft-lbs); sway link nut ~55 Nm (41 ft-lbs); bracket bolts ~25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Rear—access the upper shock nuts
- Open the rear hatch.
- Use a flat trim tool to carefully pop off the small interior access covers near the rear shock towers (inside the cargo area).
- Use a 14mm socket to loosen (but don’t fully remove yet) the upper shock nuts.
Step 9: Rear—remove the lower shock bolt
- At the rear suspension, use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lower shock bolt.
- Support the lower control arm lightly with the floor jack if the bolt is under tension.
Step 10: Rear—remove the shock and install the new one
- Finish removing the upper nuts using a 14mm socket, then remove the shock.
- Install the new shock in place and hand-thread the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
- Torque (typical—verify with OEM info): Rear upper nuts ~35 Nm (26 ft-lbs); rear lower bolt ~150 Nm (111 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower off jack stands using the floor jack.
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Take a short, slow test drive and listen for clunks over bumps.
- Recheck that ABS/brake hose brackets are secured and not rubbing the tire.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible after front strut replacement.
- After 50–100 miles, recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, all four corners)
DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only, depending on quick-struts vs struts only)
You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















