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2016 Subaru Outback
2016 Subaru Outback
2.5i - Flat 4 2.5L
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Subaru Outback 2016 all shock absorber replacement.

Subaru Outback 2016 all shock absorber replacement.

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
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How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Subaru Outback

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Subaru Outback

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

Orion
Orion

🔧 Outback - Shock/Strut Replacement

On your Outback, the front uses strut assemblies (shock + spring together) and the rear uses separate shocks. Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces tire cupping.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (all four corners)

Assumption: You’re replacing front struts + rear shocks (full set).


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the Outback on jack stands only; never rely on a jack.
  • ⚠️ If reusing front springs, a coil spring compressor is required; the spring is stored energy and can cause severe injury.
  • ⚠️ Keep brake hoses and ABS wires unstressed; don’t let the knuckle hang by the hose.
  • ⚠️ Use penetrating oil and go slow on rusty fasteners to avoid snapping studs/bolts.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (30–250 ft-lbs)
  • 19mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 19mm wrench
  • 17mm wrench
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Flat trim tool
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil
  • Coil spring compressor (specialty)
  • Pry bar (12–18")

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies (quick-struts recommended) - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock absorbers - Qty: 2
  • Rear upper shock mount nuts (optional, if corroded) - Qty: 4
  • Front strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts (optional, if corroded) - Qty: 4
  • Sway bar end links (optional, if boots torn or seized) - Qty: 2 (front pair)

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels (for front work) or front wheels (for rear work).
  • Use a 19mm socket to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the front strut-to-knuckle bolts and rear lower shock bolts and let it soak 10–15 minutes.
  • If you are not using complete front strut assemblies: a coil spring compressor is a tool that clamps the spring so it can be safely removed.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front (or rear) at the proper jack point.
  • Set the vehicle down on jack stands.
  • Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove the wheels.

Step 2: Front—disconnect brackets and sway bar link

  • Use a 12mm socket to remove the ABS/brake hose bracket bolts from the strut body (don’t open the brake line).
  • Use a 17mm wrench and 17mm socket to remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut (hold the stud if it spins).
  • Tip: Support the knuckle so nothing pulls tight.

Step 3: Front—mark camber bolt position (if equipped)

  • Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the upper strut-to-knuckle bolt and the knuckle.
  • This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

Step 4: Front—remove strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen and remove the two large bolts/nuts that clamp the strut to the steering knuckle.
  • Use a pry bar as needed to separate the strut from the knuckle.

Step 5: Front—remove top strut nuts and remove the strut

  • Open the hood.
  • Use a 14mm socket to remove the three top mounting nuts.
  • Hold the strut with one hand as the last nut comes off, then remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 6: Front—transfer spring (ONLY if not using quick-struts)

  • Install the coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly until the spring is loose in the seats.
  • Remove the top nut using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench (method varies by tool access).
  • Move the spring and upper mount to the new strut, ensuring the spring end sits in the pocket correctly.
  • Remove the compressor slowly and evenly.
  • Tip: Quick-struts avoid this entire risk.

Step 7: Front—install the strut assembly

  • Position the strut in the tower and hand-thread the top nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Slide the strut into the knuckle and install the two large bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
  • Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
  • Reinstall ABS/brake hose brackets using a 12mm socket.
  • Torque (typical for this Outback—verify with OEM info): Strut-to-knuckle bolts ~175 Nm (129 ft-lbs); top mount nuts ~20 Nm (15 ft-lbs); sway link nut ~55 Nm (41 ft-lbs); bracket bolts ~25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Rear—access the upper shock nuts

  • Open the rear hatch.
  • Use a flat trim tool to carefully pop off the small interior access covers near the rear shock towers (inside the cargo area).
  • Use a 14mm socket to loosen (but don’t fully remove yet) the upper shock nuts.

Step 9: Rear—remove the lower shock bolt

  • At the rear suspension, use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lower shock bolt.
  • Support the lower control arm lightly with the floor jack if the bolt is under tension.

Step 10: Rear—remove the shock and install the new one

  • Finish removing the upper nuts using a 14mm socket, then remove the shock.
  • Install the new shock in place and hand-thread the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
  • Torque (typical—verify with OEM info): Rear upper nuts ~35 Nm (26 ft-lbs); rear lower bolt ~150 Nm (111 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

  • Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower off jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Take a short, slow test drive and listen for clunks over bumps.
  • Recheck that ABS/brake hose brackets are secured and not rubbing the tire.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible after front strut replacement.
  • After 50–100 miles, recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, all four corners)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only, depending on quick-struts vs struts only)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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