🔧 Crosstrek - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement

Your Crosstrek uses rear shock absorbers and front struts (a strut is a shock with a spring mount built in). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and helps keep tires planted for safer braking and handling.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Stock suspension; procedure covers rear shocks + front struts.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ If reusing front springs, a coil spring compressor is required; compressed springs can cause serious injury if mishandled.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when lowering/raising the control arm with the jack.
• ⚠️ After front strut work, get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Combination wrench set (12mm-19mm)
• Hex key set (metric)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Rubber mallet
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front struts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kits - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops and dust boots - Qty: 2
• Self-locking suspension nuts/bolts kit - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the wheels that will stay on the ground using wheel chocks.
• Spray visible suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10-15 minutes.
• If you plan to reuse the front springs, set up your coil spring compressor (a clamp tool that safely compresses the spring) and read its instructions first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and safely lift the vehicle

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts 1 turn (do not remove yet).
• Lift with a floor jack at the correct lift point and set the vehicle on jack stands.
• Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Replace the rear shock absorbers (one side at a time)

• Support the rear lower control arm with the floor jack so the suspension doesn’t drop suddenly.
• Access the upper shock mount inside the cargo area:
  • Use a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver to carefully remove the rear side trim/cover to reach the shock’s upper nuts.
• Remove the upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar (hold the nut with a 17mm wrench if needed).
• Remove the shock from the vehicle. Use a pry bar gently if it’s stuck.
• Install the new rear shock:
  • Hand-start the upper nuts using a 14mm socket (do not fully tighten yet).
  • Align the lower mount and install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
• Final-tighten at normal ride height:
  • Raise the control arm with the floor jack until the suspension looks close to normal ride height.
  • Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification.
• Repeat on the other rear side.
• Tip: Tighten rubber bushings at ride height.

Step 3: Replace the front struts (recommended: complete assemblies)

• On the strut-to-knuckle area, mark the camber bolt position using a paint marker. This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to the shop.
• Disconnect brackets from the strut:
  • Remove the brake hose bracket bolt using a 12mm socket.
  • Remove the ABS wire bracket bolt using a 12mm socket.
• Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut:
  • Remove the end link nut using a 17mm socket.
  • If the stud spins, hold it with a metric hex key while turning the nut.
• Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts:
  • Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two large bolts/nuts.
  • Keep track of which bolt was the camber bolt (the one you marked).
• Remove the upper strut mount nuts in the engine bay:
  • Use a 12mm socket or 14mm socket (varies by hardware) to remove the top nuts.
  • Hold the strut so it doesn’t drop when the last nut comes off.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
• Install the new strut:
  • Position the strut and hand-start the top nuts using a 12mm socket or 14mm socket.
  • Reinstall the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 19mm socket, aligning your paint marks.
  • Reattach the sway bar end link using a 17mm socket and hex key set if needed.
  • Reinstall brake hose and ABS brackets using a 12mm socket.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification.
• Repeat on the other front side.
• Tip: Complete struts avoid spring compressors.

Step 4: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification.

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✅ After Repair

• Do a slow test drive and listen for clunks or rubbing.
• Re-check that brake hose/ABS wire brackets are secure and not twisted.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment, especially after front struts.
• After 50-100 miles, re-check lug nut torque using a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only, varies by parts choice)

You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.