🔧 Frontier - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Frontier, the rear uses simple shocks, but the front “shocks” are part of a coilover strut assembly (shock + spring together). Replacing worn shocks improves ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing over bumps.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: torque specs shown match common Frontier service specs; verify with a factory manual if available.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the truck on jack stands before going underneath.
• ⚠️ Never loosen a front strut center nut with the spring loaded.
• ⚠️ If you are not using “loaded/quick” struts, a spring compressor is required and can be dangerous if misused.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when lowering/raising the lower control arm.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" (30–200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set 3/8" and 1/2" drive (8mm–22mm)
• Wrench set (10mm–22mm)
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Extension set (3", 6", 12")
• Pry bar 18"
• Hammer 2 lb
• Punch 6mm–10mm
• Needle-nose pliers
• Penetrating oil spray
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front loaded strut assemblies (left and right) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers (left and right) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounting nuts - Qty: 6
• Rear shock mounting hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Thread locker (medium strength) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the wheels that stay on the ground using wheel chocks.
• Spray all shock/strut fasteners with penetrating oil spray 10–15 minutes before removal.
• Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• “Loaded/quick strut” = pre-assembled spring + strut.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the rear wheels

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear differential.
• Set the frame on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove both rear wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet 3/8".

Step 2: Remove the rear shocks

• Support the rear axle lightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop.
• Remove the lower shock bolt/nut using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
• Remove the upper shock mount hardware using a 17mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
• If the bolt is stuck, tap it out using a hammer 2 lb and punch 6mm–10mm.

Step 3: Install the rear shocks

• Position the new shock and start the upper mount hardware by hand.
• Install the lower bolt/nut and snug with a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
• Apply thread locker (medium strength) to the lower bolt threads if your hardware kit recommends it.
• Torque upper shock mount to 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2".
• Torque lower shock bolt to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2".

Step 4: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front crossmember.
• Set the frame on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove both front wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet 3/8".

Step 5: Disconnect brackets and sway bar end link from the front strut

• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
• Remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
• If the stud spins, hold it with a hex key 6mm while turning the nut with the 17mm wrench.
• Keep the brake hose relaxed—no stretching.

Step 6: Remove the front strut assembly

• Support the lower control arm lightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and breaker bar 1/2".
• Under the hood, remove the strut top mount nuts using a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
• Pull the strut assembly out. Use a pry bar 18" gently if needed.
• Do not remove the strut center nut. It holds the spring.

Step 7: Install the new front loaded strut assembly

• Guide the new loaded strut into place and start the top mount nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
• Align the bottom of the strut with the steering knuckle and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
• Reinstall the brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket.
• Torque strut top mount nuts to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2".
• Torque strut-to-knuckle bolts to 125 Nm (92 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2".
• Torque sway bar end link nut to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2".

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the truck

• Reinstall wheels and snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
• Lower the truck off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2".

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Test drive at low speed first. Listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Re-check all visible fasteners for tightness and confirm brake hoses/ABS wires are clipped back in place.
• Get a front-end alignment after replacing front struts.
• Re-torque lug nuts after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench 1/2".

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$1,100 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.