🔧 Altima - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Altima, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, while the front uses strut assemblies (a strut is a shock built into a structural suspension unit). The steps, tools, and safety needs are different front vs rear—especially because front struts may require compressing a coil spring.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-4.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Altima on jack stands on a flat surface; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ If you’re doing front struts and reusing the coil spring, a coil spring compressor is required (it squeezes the spring so it can’t “release” violently).
• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of pinch points in the suspension.
• ⚠️ After any strut/shock work, get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8"
• Socket set 3/8" drive (8mm-19mm)
• Socket set 1/2" drive (14mm-22mm)
• Wrench set (10mm-22mm)
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Ratchet 1/2"
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Pry bar
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount and bearing kit - If reusing springs - Qty: 2
• Front bump stop and dust boot kit - If worn - Qty: 2
• New self-locking strut/shock nuts and bolts - If required - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels (for front work) or front wheels (for rear work).
• Loosen lug nuts slightly with the car on the ground using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
• Spray suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 5–10 minutes.
• If doing front struts and not using complete assemblies: plan to use a coil spring compressor. Never remove the top nut on an uncompressed spring.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which end you’re replacing

• Are you replacing the rear shocks (easier), the front struts (more involved), or all four?
• Are you installing complete front strut assemblies (quick-struts) or reusing your coil springs with a coil spring compressor?

Step 2: Lift and remove the wheels

• Lift the correct end using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet 1/2".

Step 3 (Rear shocks): Support the rear suspension arm

• Place the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) lightly under the rear suspension arm to hold it up.
• This prevents the arm from dropping when the shock bolt is removed.

Step 4 (Rear shocks): Remove the lower shock bolt

• Remove the lower shock fastener using a socket set 1/2" drive (14mm-22mm) and breaker bar 1/2".
• If the bolt is stuck, re-apply penetrating oil and use a pry bar gently for alignment.
• Torque: Nissan uses specific torque values by fastener; I’ll provide the exact specs once you confirm rear vs front and which parts you’re installing.

Step 5 (Rear shocks): Remove the upper shock mount nuts

• Access the upper shock mount area in the trunk/inside trim as needed using a trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver.
• Remove the upper nuts using a socket set 3/8" drive (8mm-19mm) and ratchet 3/8".
• Remove the shock.

Step 6 (Rear shocks): Install the new rear shock

• Position the new shock and hand-thread the upper nuts using a socket set 3/8" drive (8mm-19mm).
• Align the lower mount and install the lower bolt using a socket set 1/2" drive (14mm-22mm).
• Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench 1/2" and torque wrench 3/8" once I confirm your exact configuration.

Step 7 (Front struts): Disconnect brackets from the strut

• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a socket set 3/8" drive (8mm-19mm) or wrench set (10mm-22mm) (varies by fastener).
• Do not let the brake hose hang or twist.

Step 8 (Front struts): Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and steering knuckle.
• This helps you get close before the alignment shop.

Step 9 (Front struts): Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the knuckle area lightly with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the two large bolts/nuts using a socket set 1/2" drive (14mm-22mm) and breaker bar 1/2".
• Torque: These are critical fasteners; I’ll give the exact Nissan torque once you confirm quick-struts vs spring swap.

Step 10 (Front struts): Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood.
• Remove the upper mount nuts using a socket set 3/8" drive (8mm-19mm) and ratchet 3/8".
• Lower and remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 11 (Front struts - if NOT quick-strut): Transfer the spring

• Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) on the spring and tighten evenly until the spring is loose on the mount.
• Remove the center top nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) and ratchet 3/8".
• Move the spring, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut in the same orientation.

Step 12 (Front struts): Install the strut

• Position the strut and hand-thread the upper mount nuts using a socket set 3/8" drive (8mm-19mm).
• Install the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a socket set 1/2" drive (14mm-22mm).
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a wrench set (10mm-22mm) or socket set 3/8" drive (8mm-19mm).

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet 1/2".
• Lower the vehicle from the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench 1/2" in a star pattern.
• Torque: I’ll provide the exact lug torque for your Altima once you confirm which axle you’re doing (front/rear/all four).

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✅ After Repair

• Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks and confirm straight braking.
• Recheck for any loose brackets or rubbing hoses/wires.
• Schedule a 4-wheel alignment, especially after front strut work.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $320-$700+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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