🔧 Outlander - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement

On your Outlander, the front suspension uses strut assemblies (a shock built into a structural assembly), and the rear uses separate shock absorbers. Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and improves braking stability.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

Assumption: Replacing both front struts and both rear shocks; torque values shown are common Outlander specs—verify against factory service info if any fastener differs.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack; always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Front struts are under spring tension. If you’re not using complete strut assemblies, you must use a coil spring compressor (a tool that safely compresses the spring). Improper use can cause serious injury.
• ⚠️ Do not loosen the large center nut on top of a strut unless the spring is safely compressed.
• ⚠️ If your Outlander has HID/LED leveling sensors on the suspension, avoid yanking on the sensor links/wiring.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is normally required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2", 20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench (3/8", 10–80 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm–22mm, 3/8" & 1/2")
• Wrench set (10mm–22mm)
• Allen key set (metric)
• Pry bar (18")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat trim tool
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Punch set
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut spreader tool (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies (complete) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kit - If not included with assemblies - Qty: 2
• Front bump stop & dust boot kit - If not included - Qty: 2
• Rear upper/lower shock mounting hardware kit - Recommended if rusty - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering straight, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks at the wheels staying on the ground.
• Spray penetrating oil on strut-to-knuckle bolts and rear shock bolts 10–20 minutes before removal.
• If you’re not installing complete front strut assemblies, confirm you have a spring compressor (specialty) and know how to use it safely.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the vehicle

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn.
• Lift the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands under the proper front support points.
• Remove the front wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Unclip ABS/brake line brackets from the front strut

• Use a 10mm socket to remove any brake hose/ABS wire bracket bolts from the strut.
• Use a flat trim tool to gently release clips if equipped.
• Don’t pull on the ABS wire.

Step 3: Disconnect the front sway bar end link (if attached to the strut)

• The sway bar end link is a small link that connects the sway bar to the strut to reduce body roll.
• Use a 17mm wrench (typical) on the nut, and use an Allen key (metric) in the stud to keep it from spinning (if required).
• Move the link aside.

Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and steering knuckle.
• Helps keep alignment close enough to drive.

Step 5: Remove the front strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the knuckle so it doesn’t hang on the axle/brake hose.
• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two lower strut bolts/nuts.
• If the knuckle clamps the strut, insert a strut spreader tool (specialty) to slightly open the clamp.

Step 6: Remove the front strut assembly from the body

• Open the hood.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the strut mount nuts at the strut tower.
• Hold the strut from below as you remove the last nut, then remove the strut assembly.

Step 7: If reusing springs (skip if using complete strut assemblies)

• Install a spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
• Remove the center top nut using the correct socket and an Allen key (metric) if the shaft spins.
• Transfer the spring, upper mount/bearing, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut.
• Slowly release the spring compressor, ensuring the spring seats correctly in its lower and upper pockets.

Step 8: Install the front strut

• Position the strut into the tower and hand-thread the top nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Seat the strut into the knuckle and install the lower bolts using a 19mm socket.
• Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs) for strut-to-knuckle bolts.
• Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs) for upper mount nuts.

Step 9: Reattach sway bar end link and brackets

• Reattach the sway bar end link using a 17mm wrench and Allen key (metric) if needed.
• Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) for sway bar end link nut.
• Reinstall ABS/brake line brackets using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs) for small bracket bolts.

Step 10: Repeat the front strut steps on the other side

• Perform Steps 2–9 on the other front corner.

Step 11: Raise the rear and remove rear wheels

• Chock the front wheels, then lift the rear with a floor jack and support with jack stands.
• Remove rear wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 12: Support the rear suspension arm

• Place the floor jack lightly under the rear lower control arm near the shock.
• This prevents a sudden drop.

Step 13: Remove the rear shock lower bolt

• Use a 17mm socket (typical) and breaker bar to remove the lower shock bolt/nut.
• Adjust the jack height slightly to relieve pressure if the bolt binds.

Step 14: Remove the rear shock upper mount fasteners

• Access the upper shock mount (often behind interior side trim in the cargo area).
• Use a trim tool to release clips and pull back trim as needed.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the upper mount nuts/bolt(s).
• Remove the shock from the wheel well.

Step 15: Install the new rear shock

• Install the shock into position and hand-thread the upper fasteners using a 14mm socket.
• Install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) for upper mount fasteners.
• Torque to 105 Nm (77 ft-lbs) for lower shock bolt.
• Final-tighten with suspension at normal height.

Step 16: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall all wheels using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) for lug nuts in a star pattern.

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive slowly and listen for clunks, rattles, or pulling.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment after front strut replacement.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench.
• If you disturbed interior trim, verify it’s clipped back securely and no wires are pinched.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$950 (parts only)

You Save: $850-$1,250 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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