🔧 GLE - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your GLE, “shocks” can mean the rear shock absorbers and/or the front strut assemblies (the front shock is built into the strut with the coil spring). Replacing worn shocks restores ride control, braking stability, and tire life.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (all four)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ If equipped with AIRMATIC/air suspension: do not unplug air lines or remove air struts without depressurizing via a scan tool; unintended movement can cause injury.
• ⚠️ Coil springs store serious energy—only use a proper external spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the spring shorter) and keep hands/face out of the spring’s path.
• ⚠️ Do not remove the strut’s center/top shaft nut unless the spring is fully compressed.
• ⚠️ Work on cool brakes/exhaust and wear eye protection.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not usually required for basic shock/strut replacement; for AIRMATIC work, follow scan tool prompts and avoid opening the system powered.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" (30–250 Nm range)
• Torque wrench 3/8" (10–80 Nm range)
• 17mm wheel bolt socket
• E-Torx socket set (E10–E18)
• Torx bit set (T25–T45)
• Socket set metric 10mm–21mm (3/8" and 1/2")
• Wrench set metric 10mm–21mm
• Pry bar
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• External coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut spreader tool (specialty)
• Scan tool with Mercedes chassis/AIRMATIC functions (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorber - Qty: 2
• Front strut (shock absorber/strut insert or complete strut, as equipped) - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount & bearing kit - Qty: 2
• Front bump stop & dust boot kit - Qty: 2
• Rear upper shock mount kit (mount/bushing/washer, as equipped) - Qty: 2
• New self-locking nuts/bolts for shock/strut mounting (recommended) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels.
• Loosen wheel bolts 1/2 turn on the ground using a 17mm wheel bolt socket and breaker bar.
• If equipped with AIRMATIC/air suspension: use a scan tool to put the suspension into service/jack mode (disables self-leveling). Prevents the SUV from changing height.
• Spray mounting fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 5–10 minutes.
• Assumption: Torque values for most suspension fasteners vary by option package; use factory torque specs for your exact hardware. Wheel bolt torque is included below.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the SUV

• Lift one end at a time using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the approved jack point.
• Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheels using a 17mm wheel bolt socket.

Step 2: Replace rear shock absorbers (one side at a time)

• Support the rear lower control arm lightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so the suspension doesn’t drop suddenly.
• Remove any inner liner/trim blocking access using a trim clip removal tool and Torx bit set (T25–T45).
• Remove the lower shock bolt/nut using socket set metric 10mm–21mm or E-Torx socket set (E10–E18) (hardware varies). Mark orientation with a paint marker.
• Remove the upper shock mount fastener(s) using a socket set metric 10mm–21mm (access may be through the wheel well or behind trim).
• Remove the shock. If it’s stuck, use a pry bar gently at the mount ears (do not bend brackets).
• Transfer/replace the mount/bushing as needed using wrench set metric 10mm–21mm.
• Install the new rear shock loosely (start all fasteners by hand).
• Raise the control arm with the floor jack to simulate normal ride height, then torque fasteners to factory spec using a torque wrench 1/2". Bushings last longer when tightened at ride height.

Step 3: Replace front struts (coil-spring strut type)

• Open the hood and locate the strut tower area. Remove any covers using a trim clip removal tool and Torx bit set (T25–T45).
• At the wheel well, unclip/undo the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using needle-nose pliers and a socket set metric 10mm–21mm.
• Mark camber/bolt positions if your knuckle-to-strut uses eccentric hardware using a paint marker.
• Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack.
• Remove the strut-to-knuckle pinch bolt(s) using an E-Torx socket set (E10–E18) and breaker bar 1/2".
• Use a strut spreader tool (specialty) to slightly open the knuckle clamp, then work the strut out of the knuckle. Use a pry bar only as needed.
• From the top, remove the strut mount nuts using a socket set metric 10mm–21mm (leave the center shaft nut alone for now).
• Remove the full strut assembly from the vehicle.

Step 4: Swap the spring/mount onto the new strut (only if not a complete assembly)

• Install an external coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring. Tighten evenly with a socket set metric 10mm–21mm until the spring is loose in the seats.
• Remove the strut center shaft nut using a socket set metric 10mm–21mm and wrench set metric 10mm–21mm (some designs require counter-holding the shaft).
• Replace the front strut mount & bearing kit, plus bump stop & dust boot kit.
• Reassemble and tighten the center shaft nut to factory spec using a torque wrench 3/8".
• Slowly release the spring compressor, alternating sides, ensuring the spring ends sit correctly in the lower/upper seats.

Step 5: Reinstall front strut and reconnect everything

• Guide the strut into the strut tower and hand-start the top mount nuts using a socket set metric 10mm–21mm.
• Slide the strut into the knuckle. Use the strut spreader tool (specialty) as needed, then install the pinch bolt(s) using an E-Torx socket set (E10–E18).
• Torque the knuckle/strut fasteners to factory spec using a torque wrench 1/2".
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a socket set metric 10mm–21mm and Torx bit set (T25–T45).
• Torque the top mount nuts to factory spec using a torque wrench 3/8".

Step 6: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install wheels and hand-thread wheel bolts.
• Lower the SUV and torque wheel bolts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs).

Step 7: If equipped with AIRMATIC (air suspension strut/shock type)

• Use a scan tool with Mercedes chassis/AIRMATIC functions (specialty) to enable service mode/jack mode before lifting, and disable it after the vehicle is back on the ground.
• Do not open air lines unless the system is depressurized per scan tool procedure.
• After installation, use the scan tool to run ride-height/level calibration if prompted.

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✅ After Repair

• Road-test at low speed first. Listen for clunks and verify straight-line braking.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (front strut work will affect alignment).
• Recheck for any loose brackets (ABS wire, brake hose) and any fastener seep/shift after the test drive.
• If AIRMATIC equipped, scan for faults and confirm ride height is even.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$2,200 (parts + labor, depends on front/rear and AIRMATIC)

DIY Cost: $300-$1,200 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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