🔧 Sedona - Shock Absorber / Strut Replacement

On your Sedona, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, while the front suspension uses strut assemblies (a strut is a shock with a spring built around it). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Stock suspension; steps cover both rear shocks and front struts.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the van with jack stands on solid points; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Front struts contain a compressed spring; use a coil spring compressor correctly or replace the complete quick-strut assembly.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points while raising/lowering the control arm or knuckle.
• ⚠️ If you separate the strut from the knuckle, you should get a front wheel alignment afterward.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set 10mm-22mm
• Wrench set 10mm-22mm
• Ratchet 3/8" drive
• Extensions 3/8" drive
• Pry bar
• Hammer
• Needle-nose pliers
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut spreader tool (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front struts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounts/bearings - Recommended - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops/dust boots - Recommended - Qty: 2
• Rear shock upper/lower hardware - Recommended if corroded - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the rear wheels (for front work) or front wheels (for rear work).
• Loosen the wheel lug nuts slightly using a breaker bar and socket set 10mm-22mm before lifting.
• Spray visible shock/strut fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 5-10 minutes.
• If you are rebuilding struts (not quick-struts), set up the coil spring compressor nearby and inspect it for damage.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the van

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the end you’re working on.
• Set the van onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheels using a socket set 10mm-22mm and ratchet 3/8" drive.

Step 2: Replace rear shock absorbers (one side at a time)

• Support the rear suspension arm slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to remove tension from the shock.
• Remove the lower shock bolt/nut using a socket set 10mm-22mm and wrench set 10mm-22mm.
• Remove the upper shock mount nut/bolt using a socket set 10mm-22mm and extensions 3/8" drive.
• Work the shock out; use a pry bar gently if needed.
• Install the new rear shock in the same orientation and hand-start the upper and lower fasteners using a socket set 10mm-22mm.
• Lower/raise the suspension arm with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) until the bolts slide in without forcing.
• Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-200 ft-lbs range) to OEM specification.
• Tip: Tighten at normal ride height if possible.

Step 3: Replace front struts (overview choice)

• If you bought quick-struts, the spring is already assembled, and you do not need the spring compressor.
• If you bought bare struts, you must transfer the spring using a coil spring compressor (specialty) (a tool that safely compresses the coil spring so you can remove the top nut).

Step 4: Disconnect brackets and links from the front strut

• Remove brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a socket set 10mm-22mm and ratchet 3/8" drive.
• If equipped with a stabilizer (sway bar) link attached to the strut, remove the link nut using a wrench set 10mm-22mm and socket set 10mm-22mm.

Step 5: Separate the strut from the steering knuckle

• Mark the strut-to-knuckle position with a paint marker to help keep alignment close.
• Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a breaker bar 1/2" and socket set 10mm-22mm.
• If the knuckle clamp is tight, use a strut spreader tool (specialty) to open the clamp slightly.
• Support the knuckle so it doesn’t pull on the axle or brake hose; use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) as needed.

Step 6: Remove the strut assembly from the body

• Open the hood and locate the strut mount nuts at the top of the strut tower.
• Hold the strut from below, then remove the top mount nuts using a socket set 10mm-22mm and ratchet 3/8" drive.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 7: If reusing the spring, transfer spring and top mount

• Install the coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose at the top mount.
• Remove the strut shaft top nut using a socket set 10mm-22mm and wrench set 10mm-22mm.
• Transfer the mount/bearing, boot, and bump stop to the new strut in the same order.
• Reinstall the top nut using a socket set 10mm-22mm, then release the compressor slowly and evenly.
• Tighten the top nut with a torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-200 ft-lbs range) to OEM specification.
• Tip: Never point the spring at your body.

Step 8: Reinstall the front strut assembly

• Position the strut into the tower and hand-start the top mount nuts using a socket set 10mm-22mm.
• Seat the strut into the knuckle and install the knuckle bolts/nuts using a socket set 10mm-22mm and breaker bar 1/2".
• Reconnect the stabilizer link (if removed) using a socket set 10mm-22mm and wrench set 10mm-22mm.
• Reattach ABS/brake hose brackets using a socket set 10mm-22mm and ratchet 3/8" drive.
• Torque all fasteners using a torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-200 ft-lbs range) to OEM specification.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the van

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the van off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-200 ft-lbs range) to OEM specification.

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks and confirm stable braking.
• Recheck all visible fasteners for tightness after the first short drive.
• Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible after front strut replacement.
• Watch tire wear over the next 1-2 weeks; uneven wear suggests alignment is needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$2,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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