🔧 Malibu - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement

On your Malibu, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, but the front uses strut assemblies (a strut is a shock that also supports the suspension and steering). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (rear only: 1-2 hours; front struts: 2-4 hours)

Assumption: You want to replace both rear shocks and front struts (all 4 corners of damping).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Chock the wheels and work on level ground.
• ⚠️ Front struts can be dangerous if you disassemble the spring. Use complete quick-strut assemblies or a spring compressor (specialty).
• ⚠️ If you remove front struts, you should get a 4-wheel alignment afterward.
• ⚠️ Keep the brake hose/ABS wire from being stretched or twisted.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Socket set 10mm-24mm
• Wrench set 10mm-24mm
• Extensions (3" and 6")
• Trim clip remover tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear upper shock mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Front complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels (if doing fronts) or front wheels (if doing rears).
• Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray stubborn fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 5–10 minutes.
• If using quick-struts, you do not need to compress springs. If reusing springs, the spring compressor is required (it clamps the spring so it can’t “explode” outward).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front or rear at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 2: Replace the rear shocks (one side at a time)

• Support the rear suspension arm with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop when the shock is removed.
• Open the trunk and pull back the trunk liner near the shock tower using a trim clip remover tool and flathead screwdriver.
• Loosen/remove the rear shock upper mount nuts using a socket set 10mm-24mm and extensions (3" and 6").
• At the wheel well, remove the lower shock bolt using a socket set 10mm-24mm and wrench set 10mm-24mm.
• Remove the shock out of the wheel well by hand. Use a pry bar only if needed.
• Install the new rear shock. Start all fasteners by hand first.
• Tighten fasteners with a 1/2" drive torque wrench to Torque to OEM specification.
• Tip: Keep the jack supporting the arm.

Step 3: Replace the front struts (quick-strut method recommended)

• Under the hood, locate the strut tower. Mark the strut mount position with a paint marker.
• Disconnect any brackets on the strut (brake hose/ABS wire) using a socket set 10mm-24mm and flathead screwdriver.
• Remove the stabilizer (sway bar) link from the strut using a wrench set 10mm-24mm and socket set 10mm-24mm.
• Support the steering knuckle area with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t pull on the axle or brake hose.
• Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a socket set 10mm-24mm and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
• From under the hood, remove the strut top nuts using a socket set 10mm-24mm and extensions (3" and 6"), then remove the strut assembly.
• Install the new quick-strut into the tower and start the top nuts by hand.
• Align the bottom to the knuckle and install the bolts/nuts by hand first.
• Tighten all fasteners with a 1/2" drive torque wrench to Torque to OEM specification.
• Tip: Don’t let the knuckle hang.

Step 4: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 1/2" drive torque wrench to Torque to OEM specification.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Do a slow test drive. Listen for clunks and confirm the steering feels normal.
• Recheck lug nut torque with a 1/2" drive torque wrench after 25–50 miles.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible after front strut replacement.
• Watch for uneven tire wear over the next few weeks.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, front + rear)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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