🔧 Legacy - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Legacy, the front “shocks” are built into the front strut assemblies, and the rear uses a separate shock absorber with a separate spring. Replacing worn dampers restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces tire cupping.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours

Assumption: stock suspension; torque specs may vary slightly by hardware—use OEM specs if available.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Front struts contain a coil spring under high tension; only compress springs with a proper external coil spring compressor.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of the spring compressor hooks; tighten both sides evenly.
• ⚠️ Mark and protect ABS/brake hoses; do not let the knuckle hang by the brake hose.
• ⚠️ After front strut work, you should get a 4-wheel alignment.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set 10mm-19mm (1/2" drive)
• Socket set 10mm-17mm (3/8" drive)
• Wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Pass-through socket set 17mm-19mm
• Hex key set 5mm-6mm
• Pry bar (18")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat trim tool
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• External coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Rubber mallet
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounts (top hats) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut bearings - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops and dust boots - Qty: 2
• Rear shock upper bushings/hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Sway bar end links - Optional if worn - Qty: 2 front / 2 rear
• New self-locking nuts/bolts for strut-to-knuckle - Optional recommended - Qty: 1 kit

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels before lifting the front.
• Loosen lug nuts with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before the wheels leave the ground.
• Spray penetrating oil on strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nuts; let it soak 10-15 minutes.
• If using spring compressors: lay the strut on the ground and plan your hook positions before tensioning.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift the car and remove the wheels

• Use a floor jack to lift the front at the center jacking point, then set the car on jack stands.
• Remove the front wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Detach brackets and the sway bar end link (front)

• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket.
• Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 14mm or 17mm socket (varies by brand).
• If the stud spins, hold it with a 5mm-6mm hex key while turning the nut with a wrench. (A hex key is a small L-shaped tool that fits inside the stud.)

Step 3: Separate the strut from the steering knuckle (front)

• Support the knuckle lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
• Mark the position of the lower bolts with a paint marker to help keep alignment close.
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Tap bolts out with a rubber mallet if needed, and use a pry bar to separate the strut from the knuckle.
• Torque to 160 Nm (118 ft-lbs) when reinstalling.

Step 4: Remove the strut assembly (front)

• Open the hood and locate the three strut top nuts.
• Hold the strut from below, then remove the three top nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Lift the strut assembly out of the wheel well.
• Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs) for the top nuts during reassembly.

Step 5: Swap parts onto the new strut (front) or install complete quick-strut

• If you bought complete quick-struts, skip to Step 6.
• Install an external coil spring compressor (specialty) onto opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly until the spring is loose from the top mount.
• Remove the center top nut using a pass-through socket and hex key to hold the shaft if needed.
• Transfer (or replace) the mount, bearing, dust boot, and bump stop onto the new strut.
• Tighten the center top nut to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs), then slowly release the spring compressor evenly.
• Tip: match the spring “end” to the seat pocket.

Step 6: Reinstall the front strut assembly

• Position the strut in the tower and hand-thread the three top nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Slide the knuckle onto the strut and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Torque to 160 Nm (118 ft-lbs) for strut-to-knuckle bolts.
• Reattach sway bar end link using the correct socket/wrench.
• Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs) for front end link nut.
• Reinstall ABS/brake hose brackets using a 10mm socket and snug firmly.

Step 7: Replace the rear shocks

• Chock the front wheels, lift the rear with a floor jack, and support with jack stands.
• Remove rear wheels using a 19mm socket.
• Support the rear lower control arm with the floor jack to prevent sudden movement.
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm or 19mm socket.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs) when reinstalling the lower bolt.
• Access the upper shock mount nuts from inside the trunk (pull back liner with a flat trim tool).
• Remove the upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket, then remove the shock.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) for upper nuts during reassembly.
• Install the new shock, start the upper nuts by hand, then install the lower bolt.
• Final-tighten lower bolt with the suspension at near ride height by raising the control arm with the floor jack.
• Tip: prevents bushing twist and squeaks.

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs) for lug nuts.

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps.
• Re-check all visible fasteners after the first short drive.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (front strut removal affects camber/toe).
• If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, stop and align before long driving.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$950 (parts only)

You Save: $850-$1,250 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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