🔧 Fusion - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Fusion, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, while the front uses a strut assembly (a strut is a shock with a coil spring wrapped around it). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and prevents uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (rear only: 1.5-3 hours)

Assumption: Steps cover both rear shocks and front struts (most complete “all shocks” job).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear when lowering/raising the suspension arm; it can move suddenly.
• 🛑 Front struts require a coil spring compressor; a compressed spring stores dangerous energy.
• ⚡ Hybrid note: you do not need to disable the high-voltage system for shocks/struts, but avoid pulling, crushing, or jacking near any orange high-voltage cables.
• 🔥 If you just drove, let brakes/rotors cool before working near them.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm-21mm, 1/2" drive)
• Wrench set (8mm-21mm)
• Deep socket set (13mm-19mm)
• Pry bar (18"-24")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (external, threaded-rod type) (specialty)
• Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)
• Allen key set (metric)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock upper mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounts/bearings - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolt/nut kit - Replace both sides - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering straight, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks at the wheels staying on the ground.
• Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn with a breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray shock/strut fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 5–10 minutes.
• Know this term: a knuckle is the big hub/steering assembly the wheel bolts to.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) on the correct pinch weld/jacking point and raise the car.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake the car to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket.
• When reinstalling wheels later: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 2: Rear shock - access the upper mount

• Open the trunk.
• Use a trim clip removal tool and needle-nose pliers to remove fasteners holding the trunk side trim near the shock tower area.
• Pull the trim back enough to see the rear shock upper mount nuts.
• Tip: Keep clips in a small cup.

Step 3: Rear shock - remove the lower bolt

• Support the rear lower control arm with the floor jack (light pressure only).
• Use a socket set (8mm-21mm) and breaker bar (1/2") to remove the lower shock bolt/nut at the control arm.
• If the bolt is tight in the bushing, use a pry bar (18"-24") gently to line up tension, then slide the bolt out.

Step 4: Rear shock - remove the upper nuts and remove the shock

• Inside the trunk, use a deep socket set (13mm-19mm) to remove the upper mount nuts.
• Hold the shock from below and guide it out through the wheel well.
• Move any rubber isolators/upper mount parts to the new shock if your new shocks don’t include them.

Step 5: Rear shock - install the new shock

• Position the new shock in place and start the upper nuts by hand using a deep socket.
• Install the lower bolt/nut using the socket set.
• Use the floor jack to raise the control arm until the suspension is near normal ride height (prevents bushing twist).
• Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.

Step 6: Front strut - loosen top mount nuts (do not remove)

• Open the hood.
• At the top of the strut tower, use a socket set to loosen the top mount nuts 1–2 turns.
• Do not remove them yet—the strut can drop when disconnected below.

Step 7: Front strut - disconnect lines and stabilizer link

• Remove any brake hose/ABS wire brackets attached to the strut using a 10mm socket or socket set (varies by bracket).
• Remove the stabilizer (sway) bar end link from the strut using a wrench set and Allen key set (metric) to hold the stud if it spins.
• Definition: the sway bar end link is the small rod that connects the sway bar to the strut.

Step 8: Front strut - separate strut from the knuckle

• Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle position as a reference.
• Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a breaker bar (1/2") and socket set.
• Use a pry bar (18"-24") as needed to free the knuckle from the strut.
• Be careful not to over-pull the axle/inner joint while the knuckle is loose.

Step 9: Front strut - remove the strut assembly

• Support the strut from below with one hand.
• Remove the loosened top mount nuts using a socket set.
• Guide the strut assembly out through the wheel well.

Step 10: Front strut - swap spring and mount (if not using complete assemblies)

• Install the spring compressor (external, threaded-rod type) (specialty) on opposite sides of the coil spring.
• Tighten each side evenly using a wrench set until the spring is loose in the mount.
• Remove the center strut nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) and Allen key set (metric) to hold the strut shaft.
• Transfer the spring and mount/bearing to the new strut in the same orientation.
• Reinstall the center nut and tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.
• Slowly release the spring compressor evenly until the spring seats fully.
• Tip: If unsure, buy complete strut assemblies.

Step 11: Front strut - install and tighten

• Position the strut into the strut tower and hand-thread the top nuts using a socket set.
• Slide the knuckle onto the strut and install the lower bolts/nuts using a socket set.
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using a wrench set and Allen key set (metric).
• Reinstall any brake hose/ABS brackets using a socket set.
• Final-tighten all fasteners using a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels and snug lug nuts using a socket set.
• Lower the car off the jack stands with the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Do a short road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25–50 miles.
• If you replaced front struts, get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear.
• Check that brake hoses and ABS wires are clipped back exactly as before (no rubbing).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $800-$1,800 (parts + labor, front + rear)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only, front + rear)

You Save: $500-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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