How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, torque specs, and alignment notes
How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, torque specs, and alignment notes


đź”§ Grand Cherokee - Shock Absorber Replacement
Your Grand Cherokee uses different setups front vs rear: the front is a coilover strut (shock + spring together), and the rear is a separate shock next to the spring. The steps, parts, and torque specs are different depending on which end you’re replacing.
Before I give you the exact step-by-step with correct torque specs, tell me 2 things: (1) Are you replacing front, rear, or all four? (2) For the front, are you installing complete strut assemblies (Quick-Strut) or reusing your coil springs?
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: Rear: 1-2 hours | Front: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a floor jack.
- ⚠️ If doing front struts and reusing springs: a coil spring compressor stores dangerous energy—use only a quality compressor and keep hands/face out of the spring’s path.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves; rust and debris fall from the wheel well.
- ⚠️ Do not work under the vehicle with the suspension hanging unsupported; use a jack to support the lower control arm/axle when needed.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not typically required for shocks/struts.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug wrench (19mm)
- Socket set (8mm-24mm)
- Ratchet (3/8")
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (20-250 ft-lbs range)
- Wrench set (8mm-24mm)
- Pry bar (12"-18")
- Hammer (16 oz)
- Punch set
- Penetrating oil
- Wire brush
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Spring compressor (specialty)
- Strut nut socket set (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front complete strut assemblies (Quick-Strut) (recommended) - Qty: 2
- Front struts (bare struts, if reusing springs) - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorbers - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount kit (mount/bearing/hardware) - Qty: 2
- Rear shock hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Sway bar end links (optional if worn) - Qty: 2
- Penetrating oil - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the opposite end you’re lifting.
- Break the lug nuts loose 1/4 turn using a 19mm lug wrench before lifting.
- Spray shock/strut fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10-15 minutes.
- If you’re doing front struts and not using Quick-Struts: a spring compressor clamps the coil spring so it can’t expand; if you’re not 100% comfortable, use Quick-Struts instead.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Tell me your exact setup (so I can give correct torque specs)
- Reply with: Front / Rear / All four.
- Also reply (front only): Quick-Strut or Reuse springs.
Step 2: Lift and support the vehicle
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the corner you’re working on.
- Set the frame on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the wheel using a 19mm lug wrench.
Step 3: Rear shock (overview path)
- Support the rear axle with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop when the shock comes off.
- Remove the lower shock bolt using a breaker bar (1/2") and correct socket/wrench.
- Remove the upper shock fastener(s) using a ratchet (3/8") and correct socket.
- Install the new rear shock, start all fasteners by hand, then final-torque with a torque wrench once you reply with your setup so I can give the exact spec.
- Tip: Tighten with the axle supported.
Step 4: Front strut (overview path)
- Disconnect the sway bar end link (if it blocks removal) using the correct socket/wrench.
- Support the lower control arm with the floor jack.
- Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a breaker bar (1/2") and correct socket/wrench.
- Under the hood, remove the upper strut mount nuts using a ratchet (3/8") and correct socket.
- Remove the strut assembly, install the replacement, start fasteners by hand, then final-torque with a torque wrench after you reply so I can provide the exact spec.
- If reusing springs: use a spring compressor (specialty) and a strut nut socket set (specialty) to transfer parts safely.
âś… After Repair
- Reinstall wheels and tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench after lowering.
- Test drive slowly, listen for clunks, and recheck for any loose fasteners.
- Front struts: get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $600-$1,500 (parts + labor, front + rear)
DIY Cost: $200-$900 (parts only, depending on Quick-Struts vs bare struts)
You Save: $400-$600+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















