🔧 Grand Cherokee - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

On your Grand Cherokee, the front suspension uses strut assemblies (strut + spring + upper mount). Replacing worn struts restores ride control and reduces bouncing, nose-diving, and clunking over bumps.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-5.0 hours (both fronts)

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Never remove the strut center nut unless the spring is safely compressed; the spring stores dangerous energy.
• Strongly recommended: replace the entire “quick-strut” assembly to avoid spring compressor risk.
• Support the SUV with jack stands under the frame; never rely on a floor jack.
• After front strut replacement, get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20–250 ft-lbs range)
• Combination wrench set (13mm–21mm)
• Pry bar (18")
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Spring compressor (specialty)

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assembly (quick-strut) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end links - Optional but recommended if boots are torn - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-clevis pinch bolt/nut hardware - Optional (if corroded) - Qty: 2
• Front lower clevis-to-lower control arm bolt/nut hardware - Optional (if corroded) - Qty: 2

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts and sway bar link nuts 10–15 minutes before removal.
• If you are NOT using quick-struts: a spring compressor is required; it clamps the spring so it can’t expand suddenly.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front, then place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails.
• Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar.

Step 2: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

• Use penetrating oil on the end link nut.
• Remove the end link nut at the strut bracket using an 18mm socket and a combination wrench to hold the link if it spins.
• If the link is seized, replace it.

Step 3: Mark and loosen the strut-to-clevis pinch connection

• Use a paint marker to mark the strut position in the clevis (helps reassemble close to original).
• Remove the pinch bolt/nut using 18mm socket and combination wrench.

Step 4: Remove the lower clevis-to-lower control arm bolt

• Support the lower control arm lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
• Remove the lower clevis bolt/nut using a 21mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar.

Step 5: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood and locate the strut tower nuts at the top of the strut mount.
• Remove the upper mount nuts using a 15mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Do not remove the strut center nut. It holds the spring.

Step 6: Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle

• Pull the strut assembly down and out of the wheel well.
• If it’s stuck in the clevis, use a pry bar (18") and tap gently with a hammer (2 lb) to free it.

Step 7: Install the new quick-strut assembly

• Position the new strut in the tower and start the upper nuts by hand.
• Slide the clevis onto the strut body and align to your paint mark.
• Install the lower clevis-to-control arm bolt/nut and snug it using a 21mm socket.
• Install the strut-to-clevis pinch bolt/nut and snug it using an 18mm socket.

Step 8: Reconnect the sway bar end link

• Attach the end link to the strut bracket and tighten with an 18mm socket.

Step 9: Final torque (important)

• Torque the upper strut mount nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs)
• Torque the strut-to-clevis pinch bolt using a torque wrench: Torque to 81 Nm (60 ft-lbs)
• Torque the lower clevis-to-lower control arm bolt using a torque wrench: Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs)
• Torque the sway bar end link nut using a torque wrench: Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs)
• Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs)

---

✅ After Repair

• Test drive slowly and listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs)
• Schedule a 4-wheel alignment promptly to prevent tire wear and steering pull.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $750-$1,300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$800 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$500+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.