🔧 Telluride - Strut Replacement

Your Telluride uses front strut assemblies (shock + spring as one unit). The rear is typically separate shocks and springs (not a “strut”), so the steps and parts differ front vs rear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (pair)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ The coil spring stores dangerous energy—do not disassemble a strut without a proper spring compressor.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Avoid pulling on ABS/brake hoses; damaged wiring can cause warning lights and braking issues.
• ⚠️ If you loosen suspension bolts, plan on a professional alignment afterward.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug nut socket (21mm)
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (10mm-22mm)
• Wrench set (10mm-22mm)
• Pry bar (24")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Punch set
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (external type) (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assembly (quick-strut) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
• Front sway bar end links - Replace in pairs (recommended if worn) - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar link nuts with penetrating oil 10–15 minutes ahead of time.
• If you’re using a “quick-strut” (complete assembly), you can avoid using the spring compressor.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of your Telluride

• Loosen lug nuts with a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
• Lift using a floor jack at the front jacking point, then set onto jack stands.
• Remove the wheels with a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Unclip ABS wire and brake hose brackets from the strut

• Remove any bracket bolts with the correct size from your socket set (10mm-14mm).
• Pop plastic clips using a trim clip tool and needle-nose pliers.
• Don’t let the knuckle hang by hoses.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

• Hold the link stud with a matching wrench set (14mm-19mm) while removing the nut with your socket set (14mm-19mm).
• If it spins, use a breaker bar (1/2") carefully and re-apply penetrating oil.

Step 4: Mark camber position (if equipped) and support the knuckle

• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship of the strut-to-knuckle bolts before removal.
• Support the steering knuckle with a floor jack so it doesn’t drop when bolts come out.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Remove the two large bolts/nuts using a socket set (19mm-22mm) and wrench set (19mm-22mm).
• Tap bolts out using a hammer (2 lb) and punch set if needed.

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood and locate the strut tower nuts.
• Remove the upper mount nuts using a socket set (12mm-14mm).
• Hold the strut with one hand as the last nut comes off, then pull the strut out.

Step 7: If reusing the spring (only if NOT using quick-struts)

• Install a spring compressor (external type) (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly.
• Once the spring is loose at the top, remove the strut top nut using a socket set (17mm-19mm) and wrench set (17mm-19mm).
• Transfer the mount/bearing/boot to the new strut, then decompress the spring slowly.
• Tighten compressors evenly—count turns per side.

Step 8: Install the new strut assembly

• Position the strut into the tower and hand-start the upper nuts using a socket set (12mm-14mm).
• Align the knuckle to the strut and insert the lower bolts; use a pry bar (24") if needed.
• Tighten the strut-to-knuckle fasteners with a torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range) to Torque to OEM specification.
• Tighten the upper mount nuts with a torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range) to Torque to OEM specification.

Step 9: Reconnect sway bar end link and reattach brackets

• Reconnect the end link using your socket set (14mm-19mm) and wrench set (14mm-19mm); Torque to OEM specification.
• Reinstall ABS/brake hose brackets using a socket set (10mm-14mm); Torque to OEM specification.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts with a torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range) to Torque to OEM specification in a star pattern.

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks and confirm the steering wheel is centered.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (required after strut removal).
• Re-check lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,700 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

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Quick question so I can make this 100% accurate:

• ❓ Are you replacing the front struts, or are you working on the rear (which is usually shocks + separate springs on your Telluride)?
• ❓ Are you installing complete quick-struts (pre-assembled) or reusing your existing springs with a compressor?