🔧 Altima - Front Strut Replacement

You’ll be replacing the front strut assemblies that control ride comfort and front suspension height. Worn struts can cause clunking, poor handling, and uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced (for a first-timer) | Estimated Time: 4–6 hours (both sides)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ NEVER loosen the center strut nut when the coil spring is not safely compressed or pre-assembled; the spring is under high tension and can cause serious injury.
• ⚠️ Always support the car with jack stands, not just a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points around the spring, steering knuckle, and control arms.
• ⚠️ Do not work under the Altima while the engine is running.
• ⚠️ After strut replacement, a professional 4-wheel alignment is required to avoid rapid tire wear.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ Lug wrench or 21mm socket
• 🛠️ Socket set (8mm–21mm)
• 🛠️ Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• 🛠️ Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• 🛠️ Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ 17mm combination wrench
• 🛠️ 19mm combination wrench
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🛠️ Needle-nose pliers
• 🛠️ Pry bar (medium)
• 🛠️ Hammer (small)
• 🛠️ Penetrating oil spray
• 🛠️ Paint marker or permanent marker
• 🛠️ Coil spring compressor (external clamp style) (specialty)
• 🛠️ Allen key set or hex bit set
• 🛠️ Trim clip removal tool or panel tool
• 🛠️ Safety glasses
• 🛠️ Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Front loaded strut assembly (left) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Front loaded strut assembly (right) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts kit - Qty: 1 set (both sides)
• 🔩 Front strut upper mount nuts - Qty: 6 (3 per side)
• 🔩 Replacement plastic clips for fender liner/brake hose brackets - Qty: 4–6
• 🔩 Penetrating lubricant - Qty: 1 can
• 🔩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: small tube

“Loaded strut assembly” includes spring, mount, and bearing, so you avoid using a spring compressor.

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📋 Before You Begin

• 📝 Park the Altima on a flat, solid surface, engage the parking brake, and place the transmission in PARK.
• 📝 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 📝 Loosen (do not remove) front wheel lug nuts with a 21mm socket while the car is on the ground.
• 📝 Decide if you are using loaded strut assemblies (recommended) or moving your old springs onto new bare struts using a spring compressor. For a beginner, loaded assemblies are much safer.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the front of the Altima

• Use the floor jack on the front center jacking point (behind the front bumper on the subframe) to lift the front of the car.
• Place jack stands under the left and right front pinch welds or frame points and slowly lower the car onto them.
• Verify the car is stable by gently rocking it by hand.
• Remove both front wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Mark alignment of the strut to steering knuckle

• Spray penetrating oil on the two large bolts that connect the strut to the steering knuckle and on the sway bar link nut.
• Use a paint marker to draw an outline where the strut meets the steering knuckle. This helps keep alignment close until you get a proper alignment.

Step 3: Disconnect brake hose and ABS sensor from the strut

• Use a trim clip removal tool or flathead screwdriver to gently pry out the plastic clips holding the brake hose and ABS wire to the strut bracket.
• If there is a small bolt for a bracket, remove it with the appropriate socket (usually 10mm).
• Move the brake hose and ABS wire aside so they are free from the strut.

Step 4: Disconnect the front stabilizer (sway) bar link from the strut

• Locate the stabilizer link where it bolts to the side of the strut.
• Hold the link stud with an Allen key or hex bit in the center if it spins, and use a 17mm or 19mm combination wrench on the nut to loosen and remove it.
• Push the link away from the strut so it is free.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-steering-knuckle bolts

• Support the steering knuckle from below with the floor jack or a block of wood so it does not drop and strain the brake hose.
• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the two large lower bolts that clamp the strut to the steering knuckle.
• Hold the nuts with a 19mm combination wrench if they spin.
• Tap the bolts out gently with a hammer if they are stuck.
• Once removed, the knuckle will be free from the strut but still supported from below.

Step 6: Access and loosen the upper strut mount nuts (engine bay)

• Open the hood.
• Locate the top of the strut tower on the left or right side (just behind the front fender, inside the engine bay).
• You will see three small nuts around the top of each strut. Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to loosen them, but leave one nut threaded on by a few turns so the strut does not fall.
• Do NOT touch the large center nut if you are not using a spring compressor.

Step 7: Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle

• With one upper nut still loosely attached, support the strut from below with one hand.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the last nut while holding the strut.
• Lower the strut out through the wheel well. You may need to push the steering knuckle slightly outward to create space.

Step 8: If using loaded strut assemblies (recommended)

• Compare the new loaded strut to the old one. Make sure the spring orientation, height, and bracket locations match.
• Note the position of the top mount studs in relation to the lower knuckle bracket so you install it in the same orientation.
• Lay old and new side by side to compare.

Step 9: If transferring springs to new bare struts (use extreme caution)

• Attach the coil spring compressor to opposite sides of the spring, making sure the hooks are fully engaged on the coils.
• Evenly tighten the compressor using a ratchet, alternating sides, until the spring is clearly loose from the upper and lower seats.
• Only now, use a socket and ratchet or impact gun on the center strut nut to remove it.
• Lift off the upper mount and carefully remove the spring.
• Move the spring to the new strut, keeping top and bottom ends in the same position.
• Reinstall the upper mount and torque the center nut to 70–75 Nm (52–55 ft-lbs) if accessible with a torque wrench.
• Slowly release the spring compressor, alternating sides, until the spring is seated firmly.
• If unsure, use loaded struts instead—much safer.

Step 10: Install the new strut assembly into the body

• Guide the new strut up into the wheel well and line up the top studs with the holes in the strut tower.
• From the engine bay, install the three new upper mount nuts by hand using a 14mm socket. Do not fully tighten yet.

Step 11: Attach the strut to the steering knuckle

• Move the steering knuckle back into position against the lower strut bracket.
• Align the marks you made earlier with the paint marker as closely as possible.
• Install the new strut-to-knuckle bolts from the rear and thread the nuts on by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar plus a 19mm wrench to tighten the bolts.
• Torque each strut-to-knuckle bolt to 130 Nm (96 ft-lbs) with the torque wrench.

Step 12: Reconnect the stabilizer link

• Insert the stabilizer link stud into the new strut bracket.
• Install the nut and hold the stud with an Allen key if it spins.
• Use a 17mm or 19mm wrench to torque the stabilizer link nut to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reattach brake hose and ABS wire brackets

• Clip the brake hose and ABS sensor wire back into the brackets on the new strut.
• If there are bolts, tighten them with a 10mm socket snugly (no official torque needed, just firmly hand tight).
• Replace any broken plastic clips with new ones.

Step 14: Torque the upper strut mount nuts

• In the engine bay, use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the three upper mount nuts.
• Torque each upper mount nut to 60 Nm (44 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Repeat steps for the other side

• Perform the same steps on the opposite front strut.
• Always replace struts in pairs for even handling.

Step 16: Reinstall wheels and lower the Altima

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the hub face if desired (avoid rotor friction surface).
• Install the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Use the floor jack to raise the car slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the car fully to the ground.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) using the torque wrench and 21mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while stationary, listening for clunks or binding from the struts.
• ✅ Take a short, slow test drive over a smooth road, then over a few small bumps, checking for noises and making sure the Altima tracks straight.
• ✅ After the test drive, recheck the torque of the front wheel lug nuts.
• ✅ Schedule a professional 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible to protect your tires and ensure proper handling.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700–$1,000 (parts + labor for both front struts)

DIY Cost: $250–$450 (parts only, using loaded strut assemblies)

You Save: $450–$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop about 2–3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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