🔧 Altima - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This repair replaces the front strut assemblies on your Altima. Struts support vehicle weight, control bouncing, and help keep the tires planted, so worn struts can cause clunking, poor ride quality, uneven tire wear, or nose-diving during braking.

Assumption: This guide covers the front strut assemblies. Rear suspension on your Altima uses separate shock absorbers, not front-style struts.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under your Altima supported only by a jack. Use jack stands every time.
• ⚠️ A loaded coil spring stores dangerous energy. For a beginner, use complete “quick strut” assemblies instead of compressing and transferring the spring.
• ⚠️ Do not loosen the center strut shaft nut unless the spring is safely compressed with a proper spring compressor.
• ⚠️ Support the steering knuckle so the brake hose and ABS wheel speed sensor wire are not stretched.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when lowering the jack or moving suspension parts.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this front strut replacement.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 21mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• 18mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 21mm wrench
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Rubber mallet
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Penetrating oil spray

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assembly - Left: 1, Right: 1
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4 bolts, 4 nuts
• Front strut upper mounting nuts - Qty: 6
• Front stabilizer bar link nuts - Qty: 2
• Brake hose bracket bolts - Qty: 2 if damaged or corroded

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Altima on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Complete strut assemblies are recommended. A complete strut includes the spring, mount, bearing, boot, and strut already assembled.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts and stabilizer link nuts before starting.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the lower strut bolts before removal. This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to the alignment shop.
• Your Altima will need a professional wheel alignment after strut replacement.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front wheel lug nut about half a turn.
• Do this while the tires are still on the ground so the wheels do not spin.
• Do not remove them yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack at the front center jacking point to lift your Altima.
• Place jack stands under the approved front side pinch weld jacking points.
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Gently shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before removing wheels.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Open Access to the Upper Strut Mounts

• Open the hood.
• Use a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver to remove any plastic cowl clips or small covers blocking access to the upper strut mount nuts.
• Locate the three upper strut mount nuts at the top of each strut tower.
• Do not remove the center shaft nut in the middle of the strut mount.

Step 5: Mark the Lower Strut Position

• Use a paint marker to draw alignment marks across the strut bracket and steering knuckle.
• The steering knuckle is the large metal part that holds the wheel hub and connects to the strut.
• These marks help place the new strut close to the old position until alignment is performed.

Step 6: Remove the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 10mm socket, 12mm socket, or 14mm socket as fitted to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
• Use a flathead screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to release the ABS wheel speed sensor wire clip from the strut bracket.
• Move the hose and wire aside gently.
• Do not pull, twist, or let the steering knuckle hang from the brake hose.

Step 7: Disconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link from the Strut

• The stabilizer bar link is the small vertical link that connects the strut to the sway bar to reduce body roll.
• Use a 17mm wrench to hold the link stud if it spins.
• Use a 17mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the stabilizer link nut from the strut bracket.
• If the nut is rusty, apply penetrating oil spray and work slowly to avoid breaking the link.

Step 8: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Place the floor jack lightly under the lower control arm or steering knuckle area.
• Lift just enough to support the suspension. Do not raise the vehicle off the jack stand.
• This prevents the brake hose and axle from being pulled when the strut bolts are removed.

Step 9: Remove the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar on the bolt head if needed.
• Use a 21mm wrench on the nut side to keep it from turning.
• Remove both lower strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts.
• If the bolts are stuck, use a rubber mallet to tap them out after the nuts are removed.
• Keep the steering knuckle supported with the floor jack.

Step 10: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Use a 13mm socket or 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the three upper strut mount nuts.
• Hold the strut with one hand while removing the last nut so it does not fall.
• Do not remove the center strut shaft nut.

Step 11: Remove the Old Strut Assembly

• Pull the lower strut bracket away from the steering knuckle by hand.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch gently if the bracket is stuck.
• Guide the strut downward and out through the wheel opening.
• Compare the old and new complete strut assemblies side by side before installation.

Step 12: Install the New Strut Assembly

• Guide the new complete strut assembly into the wheel well.
• Line up the upper studs with the holes in the strut tower.
• Hand-thread the new upper strut mount nuts a few turns.
• Use a 13mm socket or 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the nuts only for now.

Step 13: Reconnect the Strut to the Steering Knuckle

• Use the floor jack to raise or lower the steering knuckle until the lower bolt holes line up.
• Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the bolts through if needed.
• Install the new nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lower strut-to-knuckle fasteners to Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Tighten the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Use a 13mm socket or 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench if available.
• Tighten the three upper mount nuts evenly in small steps.
• Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• Do not tighten or loosen the center shaft nut.

Step 15: Reconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link

• Insert the stabilizer link stud into the strut bracket.
• Install the new nut by hand.
• Use a 17mm wrench to hold the stud if it spins.
• Use a 17mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the stabilizer link nut to Torque to 84 Nm (62 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Reinstall the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 10mm socket, 12mm socket, or 14mm socket to reinstall the brake hose bracket bolt.
• Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) if using the smaller bracket bolt.
• Use your fingers or needle-nose pliers to clip the ABS wire back into its bracket.
• Check that the hose and wire are routed the same way as before.

Step 17: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 5 through 16 on the opposite front strut.
• Replace front struts in pairs to keep handling and braking balanced.

Step 18: Reinstall the Wheels

• Place each wheel back on the hub.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 19: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 20: Reinstall Cowl Covers and Final Check

• Use the trim clip removal tool by hand to reinstall any cowl clips or plastic covers removed earlier.
• Use a flathead screwdriver gently if a clip needs help seating.
• Look behind both front wheels and confirm the brake hoses and ABS wires are not twisted or stretched.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Bounce each front corner by hand. The body should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
• ✅ Start with a slow test drive in a safe area. Listen for clunks, rubbing, or pulling.
• ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after the first short drive using a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench.
• ✅ Schedule a four-wheel alignment as soon as possible. Strut replacement changes alignment angles.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center, the vehicle pulls, or warning lights appear, stop driving and inspect the work before continuing.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,350 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $300-$650 (parts only, alignment not included)

You Save: $400-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours.

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