How to Replace Front Struts on a 2019 Ford Escape – DIY Guide
Step-by-step 2019 Ford Escape front strut replacement with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2019 Ford Escape – DIY Guide
Step-by-step 2019 Ford Escape front strut replacement with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings


🔧 Escape - Strut Replacement
You can replace the struts on your Escape at home with basic tools and patience. The front suspension uses “MacPherson struts” (a shock absorber with a spring around it), while the rear uses separate shocks and springs.
Difficulty Level: Advanced (front) / Intermediate (rear) | Estimated Time: 3-4 hours front pair, 1-2 hours rear pair
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Always support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ You will need to use a spring compressor for front struts if you reuse the old springs. This tool squeezes the spring and can be dangerous if misused.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves to protect your eyes and hands.
- ⚠️ Do not put fingers between the spring coils when compressed.
- ⚠️ After front strut replacement, a professional wheel alignment is required to prevent uneven tire wear.
- ⚠️ Keep the key out of the ignition while working near the steering and wheel area.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), Qty: 2-4
- 🛠️ Wheel chocks
- 🛠️ Breaker bar 1/2" drive
- 🛠️ Torque wrench 1/2" drive (up to 200 Nm / 150 ft-lb)
- 🛠️ Torque wrench 3/8" drive (up to 80 Nm / 60 ft-lb)
- 🛠️ Socket set metric 3/8" and 1/2" drive (8mm–21mm)
- 🛠️ 18mm socket
- 🛠️ 19mm socket
- 🛠️ 21mm socket
- 🛠️ 10mm socket
- 🛠️ Torx T30 bit
- 🛠️ Ratchet 3/8" drive
- 🛠️ Ratchet 1/2" drive
- 🛠️ Combination wrench set metric (10mm–21mm)
- 🛠️ Spring compressor (external type) (specialty)
- 🛠️ Pry bar 12"-18"
- 🛠️ Hammer (medium)
- 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver medium
- 🛠️ Needle-nose pliers
- 🛠️ Allen key set metric
- 🛠️ Penetrating oil spray
- 🛠️ Paint marker or permanent marker
- 🛠️ Safety glasses
- 🛠️ Mechanic gloves
- 🛠️ Shop light or flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 🔩 Front strut assemblies (left and right) - Qty: 2 (replace in pairs)
- 🔩 Front coil springs - Qty: 2 (optional if reusing originals)
- 🔩 Front upper strut mounts with bearings - Qty: 2
- 🔩 Front strut bump stops and dust boots - Qty: 2
- 🔩 New front lower strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4 bolts, 4 nuts
- 🔩 Rear shock absorbers (left and right) - Qty: 2 (if you also do rear)
- 🔩 Rear shock upper and lower mounting bolts/nuts - Qty: 4 bolts, 4 nuts
- 🔩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: small tube
- 🔩 Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1 can
📋 Before You Begin
- 🧾 Park the Escape on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels if working on the front, or in front of the front wheels if working on the rear.
- 🧾 Loosen (but do not remove) the wheel lug nuts with a 19mm socket before raising the vehicle.
- 🧾 Gather all tools and parts so you don’t have to stop midway.
- 🧾 No battery disconnect is required for this job, but keep the ignition off and the key away from the vehicle.
- 🧾 Plan for a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible after front strut replacement.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and Support the Front of the Escape
- Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen each front wheel lug nut one turn while the vehicle is on the ground.
- Position the floor jack under the front subframe or front jacking point and raise the front until both wheels are off the ground.
- Place jack stands under the front pinch welds or frame points and slowly lower the Escape onto them.
- Remove the front wheels completely using the 19mm socket and set them aside.
Step 2: Identify the Front Strut Attachments
- Look inside the wheel well: the strut is the large vertical assembly connecting the steering knuckle (where the wheel hub is) to the body.
- Note the brake hose bracket and ABS sensor wire bracket attached to the strut body; both must be detached before removal.
- Locate the two large bolts at the bottom of the strut where it clamps to the steering knuckle.
- Open the hood and find the three upper strut mount nuts at the top of the strut tower on each side.
Step 3: Remove Brake Hose and ABS Wire from Strut
- Spray penetrating oil on the brake hose bracket bolt and ABS bracket fastener.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
- Use a Torx T30 bit and ratchet (or appropriate small socket/clip removal method) to detach the ABS sensor wire bracket from the strut.
- Carefully move the hose and wire aside so they are not stretched or pinched.
Step 4: Mark the Strut-to-Knuckle Position
- Use a paint marker to mark around the heads of the lower strut bolts and the bracket on the steering knuckle.
- This helps keep alignment close to original.
Step 5: Remove the Lower Strut Bolts
- Spray penetrating oil on the two large lower strut bolts and nuts.
- Use an 18mm or 21mm socket on a breaker bar for the nut, and hold the bolt head with a 18mm or 21mm wrench (sizes may vary slightly; use whichever fits snugly).
- Break loose and remove both nuts, then tap the bolts out with a hammer while supporting the steering knuckle with your hand or a small support.
- Do not let the brake hose carry the knuckle weight.
Step 6: Support the Steering Knuckle
- Place a small box, wood block, or use a jack stand under the lower control arm to support the knuckle and hub so they don’t hang on the CV axle.
Step 7: Loosen the Upper Strut Mount Nuts
- Under the hood, spray the three upper strut mount nuts with penetrating oil.
- Use a 15mm or 18mm socket (size varies) and ratchet to loosen all three nuts but do not remove them completely yet; leave a few threads engaged.
- These nuts hold the strut from dropping when you remove it.
Step 8: Remove the Strut Assembly from the Vehicle
- With one hand supporting the strut from below in the wheel well, use the socket and ratchet to remove the three upper mount nuts fully.
- Carefully lower the strut assembly out of the wheel well, guiding it clear of the fender and brake hose.
- Set the strut assembly on a clean, flat surface.
Step 9: Compress the Coil Spring (If Reusing Spring)
- Attach the spring compressor to opposite sides of the coil spring, ensuring hooks are fully seated on the coils.
- Using appropriate sockets or wrenches for the compressor, tighten each side evenly, alternating from one side to the other.
- Continue until the spring just lifts off the upper and lower seats and is no longer pressing on the strut mount.
- Keep your body out of the spring’s direct line.
Step 10: Remove the Upper Strut Nut and Disassemble
- Hold the strut shaft with an Allen key in the top of the shaft while using an appropriate socket on the upper strut nut.
- Remove the upper nut and lift off the strut mount, bearing, upper spring seat, and dust boot.
- Carefully remove the compressed spring and set it aside still in the compressor.
- Inspect the bump stop and dust boot; replace if worn or cracked.
Step 11: Assemble the New Strut
- Place the new strut body on the ground in the same orientation as the old one.
- Position the compressed spring onto the new strut, making sure the bottom end of the spring sits correctly in the lower spring seat notch.
- Install the new or reused upper mount, bearing, and upper spring seat on top of the spring.
- Install the new upper strut nut and tighten it using the socket and Allen key method until snug.
- Slowly and evenly release the spring compressor, ensuring the spring seats properly at top and bottom.
- Double-check the spring ends are seated fully.
Step 12: Reinstall the Strut Assembly into the Escape
- Guide the new strut up into the strut tower from the wheel well.
- From the engine bay, start the three upper mount nuts by hand using your fingers.
- Use the appropriate socket and ratchet to snug them down lightly, but do not fully torque yet.
- Align the bottom of the strut with the steering knuckle bracket.
Step 13: Install Lower Strut Bolts
- Insert the new lower bolts through the strut and steering knuckle.
- Install the new nuts on the bolts and snug them using the correct size socket and wrench.
- Use your paint marker marks as a guide to get the strut in a similar position to original.
- Torque the lower strut bolts to approximately 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs) using the torque wrench 1/2" drive.
Step 14: Torque Upper Mount Nuts
- Under the hood, use the correct size socket and torque wrench 3/8" drive to tighten the three upper strut mount nuts.
- Torque each upper nut to approximately 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
Step 15: Reattach Brake Hose and ABS Wire
- Reposition the brake hose bracket on the new strut and install the bolt with a 10mm socket. Snug firmly.
- Reattach the ABS sensor wire bracket using the Torx T30 bit and ratchet.
- Ensure the hose and wire are not twisted and have enough slack for steering movement.
Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side
- Repeat Steps 3–15 for the other front strut.
- Always replace struts in pairs for balanced handling.
Step 17: Reinstall Wheels and Lower the Vehicle
- Mount the front wheels and start the lug nuts by hand.
- Use a 19mm socket and ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern while the Escape is still on jack stands.
- Raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and slowly lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Use a torque wrench and 19mm socket to torque each lug nut to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Bounce each front corner of the Escape by hand; it should compress and return smoothly without excessive bounciness or noise.
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while stationary to make sure there are no rubbing noises from springs or hoses.
- ✅ Take a short, slow test drive on a smooth road. Listen for clunks, rattles, or pulling to one side.
- ✅ Schedule a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible to protect your tires and ensure proper handling.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $700-$1,100 (parts + labor) for both front struts
DIY Cost: $250-$500 (parts only, depending on brand and whether you buy complete assemblies)
You Save: $450-$600 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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