🔧 Sequoia - Front Strut Replacement

On your Sequoia, the front “strut” is the complete shock-and-spring assembly that supports the vehicle and controls bouncing. Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both fronts)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never loosen the center strut shaft nut unless the spring is safely compressed.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points between the steering knuckle and strut.
• ⚠️ If you’re reusing the coil spring, use a quality spring compressor (the spring stores dangerous energy).
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after strut replacement to prevent pulling and rapid tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20–250 ft-lbs range)
• Open-end wrench set (17mm–22mm)
• Flat trim tool
• Pry bar
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies (complete quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• OR Front struts (damper only) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing plates - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops and dust boots - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• New strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts (recommended) - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering straight, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar link nut and let it soak 10–15 minutes.
• If you’re not using complete “quick-strut” assemblies: set up your spring compressor (specialty) now; it clamps the coil spring so it can’t release suddenly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the front

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen (do not remove) the lug nuts.
• Lift the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands under the frame.
• Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Unbolt brackets from the strut

• Remove the brake hose bracket bolt(s) from the strut using a 12mm socket.
• Remove the ABS wire bracket bolt(s) using a 10mm socket and gently free the wire.
• Tip: Don’t pull on the ABS wire.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar link from the strut

• Use a 17mm socket and an open-end wrench as needed to remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut tab.
• Push the link out of the strut bracket by hand; use a pry bar gently if it’s stuck.
• Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 4: Remove the strut-to-steering knuckle bolts

• Support the lower control arm/knuckle area lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
• Use a 22mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two large strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts.
• Tap the bolts out carefully while holding the knuckle steady; use a pry bar only as needed.
• Torque to 258 Nm (190 ft-lbs) on reassembly (each).

Step 5: Remove the top strut nuts and pull the strut out

• Open the hood.
• On the strut tower, remove the three top nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well. You may need to rotate it slightly to clear.
• Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) on reassembly (each top nut).

Step 6: If reusing the coil spring (skip if using complete quick-struts)

• Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly until the spring is clearly loose in the mount.
• Mark the spring-to-seat orientation using a paint marker.
• Remove the strut shaft center nut using a 17mm socket (tool access varies by strut design).
• Transfer the spring, isolators, dust boot, and mount to the new strut in the same orientation.
• Slowly release the spring compressor evenly.
• Tip: Tighten compressor sides evenly.

Step 7: Install the new strut

• Position the strut into the tower and hand-thread the three top nuts using a 14mm socket (do not fully tighten yet).
• Align the strut lower holes with the steering knuckle and install the two bolts/nuts using a 22mm socket.
• Tighten fasteners to spec:
• Top strut nuts: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs)
• Strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts: Torque to 258 Nm (190 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Reattach sway bar link and brackets

• Install the sway bar link nut using a 17mm socket.
• Sway bar link nut: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs)
• Reinstall the brake hose bracket using a 12mm socket. Torque to 29 Nm (21 ft-lbs)
• Reinstall the ABS wire bracket using a 10mm socket. Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Final tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering lock-to-lock slowly and confirm the brake hose/ABS wire is not stretched or rubbing.
• Test drive at low speed first. Listen for clunks over bumps.
• Get a professional front-end alignment as soon as possible.
• Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 50–100 km.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹25,000-₹55,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹15,000-₹40,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹10,000-₹15,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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