How to Replace Front Struts on a 2018 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step loaded strut assembly guide with tools, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment advice for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2018 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step loaded strut assembly guide with tools, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment advice for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Altima - Front Strut Assembly Replacement
This repair replaces the front strut assemblies on your Altima. The strut supports the vehicle’s weight, controls bouncing, and helps keep the tires planted while steering and braking.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack by itself.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands before putting any part of your body near the wheel well.
- ⚠️ Replace struts in pairs on the same axle. If one front strut is replaced, replace the other front strut too.
- ⚠️ Use complete loaded strut assemblies if you are a beginner. A loaded strut includes the spring already installed.
- ⚠️ Do not remove the center strut shaft nut unless the coil spring is safely compressed with a proper spring compressor.
- ⚠️ Your Altima has ABS wiring and brake hoses mounted near the strut. Do not stretch or twist them.
- ⚠️ An alignment is required after strut replacement to prevent tire wear and pulling.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm lug nut socket
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 13mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 18mm wrench
- 19mm wrench
- Flathead screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Pry bar
- Hammer
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front loaded strut assembly - Left: 1, Right: 1
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
- Front sway bar link nuts - Qty: 2
- Front brake hose bracket bolts - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Altima on level ground and set the parking brake.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🔩 Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
- 📌 A loaded strut assembly means the coil spring, strut, upper mount, and bearing come preassembled.
- 📌 A knuckle is the heavy steering part that the wheel hub and strut attach to.
- 📌 A sway bar link is a small rod that connects the suspension to the sway bar to reduce body roll.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Loosen before lifting.
Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Altima at the front center jacking point.
- Place jack stands under the front side support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Keep the floor jack nearby as a backup, but do not rely on it alone.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove both front wheels and set them flat under the vehicle as an added safety backup.
Step 4: Mark the Strut-to-Knuckle Position
- Use a paint marker to draw lines across the lower strut bracket and steering knuckle.
- This helps put the new strut close to the old position before alignment.
- Alignment is still required.
Step 5: Remove the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets
- Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
- Use a flathead screwdriver or trim clip removal tool to carefully release the ABS wire clip from the strut bracket.
- Move the hose and wire aside gently. Do not pull on the rubber hose or wiring.
Step 6: Disconnect the Sway Bar Link from the Strut
- Spray the sway bar link nut with penetrating oil.
- Use an 18mm socket with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the nut from the sway bar link at the strut.
- If the stud spins, hold it with an 18mm wrench while turning the nut with the 18mm socket.
- Move the sway bar link away from the strut.
Step 7: Support the Steering Knuckle
- Place the floor jack lightly under the lower control arm or steering knuckle area.
- Lift just enough to support the suspension. Do not raise the vehicle off the jack stands.
- This prevents the knuckle from dropping and pulling on the brake hose or axle.
Step 8: Remove the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts
- Spray the two lower strut bolts with penetrating oil.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar on the bolt heads.
- Use a 21mm wrench on the nuts if needed.
- Remove the two lower strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts.
- Use a hammer and punch or extension only if the bolts need gentle persuasion.
- Do not let the knuckle fall outward.
Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts
- Open the hood.
- Locate the three upper strut mount nuts at the top of the strut tower.
- Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the three upper mount nuts.
- Hold the strut from below with one hand while removing the last nut.
- Do not remove the center shaft nut.
Step 10: Remove the Old Strut Assembly
- Use both hands to guide the old strut assembly down and out of the wheel well.
- If it sticks, use a pry bar gently between the strut bracket and knuckle.
- Keep the brake hose and ABS wire clear while removing it.
Step 11: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly
- Guide the new loaded strut assembly into the strut tower from below.
- Install the three upper mount nuts by hand first.
- Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the upper nuts.
- Do not fully torque them yet.
Step 12: Attach the Strut to the Steering Knuckle
- Use the floor jack to raise or lower the knuckle until the lower holes line up.
- Install the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts by hand.
- Use the paint marks as a rough guide for position.
- Use a 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lower bolts.
- Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs)
Step 13: Torque the Upper Strut Mount Nuts
- Use a 13mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the three upper strut mount nuts.
- Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs)
- Do not touch the center shaft nut.
Step 14: Reconnect the Sway Bar Link
- Insert the sway bar link stud back into the strut bracket.
- Install the nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use an 18mm socket, 18mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the nut.
- Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs)
Step 15: Reattach the Brake Hose and ABS Wire
- Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall the brake hose bracket bolt.
- Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs)
- Use your hands and a trim clip removal tool if needed to snap the ABS wire clip back into the strut bracket.
- Make sure the hose and wire are not twisted or rubbing the tire area.
Step 16: Repeat on the Other Front Side
- Repeat Steps 4 through 15 on the other front strut.
- Replace both front struts as a pair for even handling and braking.
Step 17: Reinstall the Front Wheels
- Place each wheel back on the hub.
- Install the lug nuts by hand first.
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 18: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack to lift slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands.
- Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs)
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Bounce each front corner by hand. The vehicle should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
- ✅ Start with a slow test drive. Listen for clunks, rubbing, or steering pull.
- ✅ Recheck that the brake hose and ABS wire are secure on both sides.
- ✅ Have a professional four-wheel alignment performed as soon as possible.
- ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $850-$1,400 (parts + labor + alignment)
DIY Cost: $300-$650 (parts only, alignment not included)
You Save: $400-$750 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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