🔧 Optima - Front Strut Replacement

On your Optima, the “strut” is the front suspension unit that includes the shock absorber and supports the front spring. Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and tire contact with the road.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Quick question (so I guide you correctly): Are you replacing front struts only (most common), or are you also doing the rear (your Optima uses rear shocks + separate springs, not rear struts)?

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid points; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ If you are not using a complete “quick strut,” a spring compressor is required—compressed springs can cause severe injury if released suddenly.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points at the knuckle/strut area while aligning bolts.
• ⚠️ After replacing front struts, get a 4-wheel alignment ASAP to prevent tire wear and pulling.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench 3/8" drive (5–80 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set 3/8" and 1/2" drive (10mm–24mm)
• Wrench set (10mm–24mm)
• 21mm socket
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Hammer
• Punch set
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies (quick struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end links - Replace in pairs (recommended if boots are torn) - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Replace if corroded/damaged (recommended) - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the steering wheel straight, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
• Lift the front and support it securely on jack stands at the proper lift points.
• If you are not installing complete quick struts: confirm you have a spring compressor (it clamps the coil spring so it can’t “launch” when the top nut is removed).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the front wheels

• Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket, then remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Unclip/bracket the ABS wire and brake hose from the strut

• Spray fasteners with penetrating oil.
• Remove the brake hose bracket bolt using a 10mm socket.
• Release any wiring clips using a trim clip tool or needle-nose pliers.
• Torque to 10–15 Nm (7–11 ft-lbs) for the brake hose bracket bolt during reassembly.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

• Hold the end link stud with an appropriate wrench while removing the nut with a socket (sizes vary by brand; commonly 17mm–19mm).
• If the stud spins, use a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) or the matching counter-hold tool for your end link.
• Torque to 98–118 Nm (72–87 ft-lbs) during reassembly.
• Tip: Replace end links if they’re loose/noisy.

Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

• Use a paint marker to mark around the strut-to-knuckle area.
• This helps you get close to the original alignment (you still need an alignment afterward).

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the steering knuckle lightly with a floor jack so it doesn’t drop and strain the axle/ball joints.
• Remove the two lower strut bolts/nuts using a breaker bar and socket set.
• If the bolts are stuck, tap them out using a punch and hammer.
• Torque to 157–177 Nm (116–130 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood.
• On the strut tower, remove the upper mount nuts using a socket (commonly 14mm).
• Leave one nut threaded a few turns until you’re ready to catch the strut from below.
• Torque to 44–54 Nm (33–40 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 7: Remove the strut assembly

• Hold the strut from the wheel well, remove the last top nut with a socket, and lower the strut out.
• Move slowly so you don’t snag the axle boot or wiring.

Step 8: If transferring parts (only if NOT using quick struts)

• Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly until the spring is clearly loose in the seats.
• Remove the center top nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty).
• Transfer the mount/bearing/isolators as needed, then reinstall and tighten the center nut.
• Torque to 59–78 Nm (44–58 ft-lbs) for the strut rod center nut (typical for this setup).
• Tip: If unsure, use complete quick struts.

Step 9: Install the new strut assembly

• Position the strut into the strut tower and hand-thread the upper mount nuts using a socket.
• Align the lower strut bracket to the steering knuckle and insert the bolts.
• Tighten lower bolts/nuts with a socket and breaker bar, then final-tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 157–177 Nm (116–130 ft-lbs) for strut-to-knuckle bolts.
• Torque to 44–54 Nm (33–40 ft-lbs) for upper mount nuts.

Step 10: Reattach end link, brake hose bracket, and wiring

• Reconnect the sway bar end link using wrenches and a socket.
• Torque to 98–118 Nm (72–87 ft-lbs) for the end link nut.
• Reinstall the brake hose bracket bolt using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 10–15 Nm (7–11 ft-lbs) for the bracket bolt.
• Re-clip all ABS/wheel speed sensor wiring using a trim clip tool.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the car off jack stands using the floor jack.
• Final-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 88–108 Nm (65–80 ft-lbs) for the lug nuts.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm no hose/wire is stretched or rubbing.
• Test drive slowly, listening for clunks over small bumps.
• Schedule a 4-wheel alignment immediately.
• Recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench after 50–100 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,300 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only, using quick struts)

You Save: $450-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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