🔧 Explorer - Front Strut Replacement

On your Explorer, the front suspension uses a strut (spring + shock in one unit). Replacing worn struts restores ride control and helps prevent tire cupping, nose-dive braking, and clunking over bumps.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours (both sides)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose/ABS wire; support it to protect hoses and wiring.
• ⚠️ If you are NOT using complete “quick-strut” assemblies, a coil spring compressor is required (it clamps the spring so it can’t expand suddenly). Spring force can cause serious injury.
• ⚠️ After strut replacement, a professional wheel alignment is strongly recommended.
• ✅ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20-250 ft-lbs)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Ratchet (1/2")
• Socket set metric (10mm-24mm)
• Wrench set metric (10mm-24mm)
• Pry bar (18")
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Front sway bar end links - Replace in pairs (if worn) - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, straighten the steering wheel, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nuts.
• If reusing springs (not quick-struts), confirm you have a coil spring compressor before starting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and verify it’s stable.
• Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Free the hose/wire brackets from the strut

• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket.
• Tip: Keep bolts in a labeled cup.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

• Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using an 18mm wrench and 18mm socket.
• If the stud spins, hold it with the appropriate wrench while turning the nut with the socket.

Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

• Use a paint marker to mark the outline of the strut where it meets the steering knuckle.
• This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

Step 5: Support the steering knuckle

• Place the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the lower control arm/knuckle area to support the weight.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the stands; just support the suspension so it doesn’t drop suddenly.

Step 6: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Remove the two lower strut bolts/nuts using a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench.
• Use a breaker bar (1/2") if needed, then tap bolts out with a hammer (2 lb).
• Torque on install: 250 Nm (184 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood.
• Hold the strut from below, then remove the upper mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
• Torque on install: 46 Nm (34 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Remove the strut assembly

• Pull the knuckle outward slightly and guide the strut out of the wheel well.
• Use a pry bar (18") carefully if needed to create clearance.

Step 9: Install the new strut (quick-strut)

• Position the new strut up into the strut tower and start the upper nuts by hand.
• Align the lower strut bracket to the knuckle, then insert the bolts.
• Tighten the lower bolts using a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench, then Torque to 250 Nm (184 ft-lbs) with a torque wrench (20-250 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the upper mount nuts using a 13mm socket, then Torque to 46 Nm (34 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reconnect end link and brackets

• Reconnect the sway bar end link to the strut using an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench.
• Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs)
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs)

Step 11: Reinstall wheel and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench (20-250 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat the same steps for the opposite front strut.
• Tip: Replace struts in pairs.

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and confirm nothing rubs or pulls on the brake hose/ABS wire.
• Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks and verify straight braking.
• Schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• Re-check lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench (20-250 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.