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2018 Buick Enclave
2018 Buick Enclave
Essence - V6 3.6L
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How to Replace Front Strut 2013-2017 Buick Enclave

How to Replace Front Strut 2013-2017 Buick Enclave

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2018 Buick Enclave (Complete DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and key torque specs plus alignment notes

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2018 Buick Enclave (Complete DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and key torque specs plus alignment notes

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

🔧 Enclave - Front Strut Replacement

On your Enclave, the “struts” are the front suspension units that support the vehicle, control bouncing, and help keep the tires planted. Replacing worn struts restores ride comfort, steering stability, and braking control.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both fronts)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands on solid, level ground—never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ If you are reusing the coil spring, a coil spring compressor is required; a compressed spring can cause severe injury.
  • ⚠️ Keep the brake hose and ABS wire from being stretched or twisted while the knuckle hangs.
  • ⚠️ After strut replacement, get a 4-wheel alignment; driving without alignment can cause poor handling and rapid tire wear.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 1/2" (20-250 ft-lbs range)
  • Torque wrench 3/8" (10-80 ft-lbs range)
  • Lug nut socket 22mm
  • Socket set metric 10mm-21mm
  • Wrench set metric 10mm-21mm
  • Torx bit set (T30-T50)
  • Pry bar 18"
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Trim clip tool
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil
  • Strut spreader tool (specialty)
  • Coil spring compressor (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • OR Front struts (cartridge/body) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mounts with bearing - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front bump stops and dust boots - Qty: 2
  • Front coil spring insulators - Qty: 2
  • Front stabilizer (sway bar) end links - Optional if worn - Qty: 2
  • Front strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts - Recommended replace - Qty: 2 sets

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, turn the wheels straight, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Loosen front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 22mm lug socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway link nut and let it soak 5–10 minutes.
  • Decide your parts approach: quick-strut (complete assembly) is safest/easiest; reusing the spring requires a spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the coil spring).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front at the proper front jacking point.
  • Set the SUV onto jack stands and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it’s stable.
  • Remove the front wheels using a 22mm lug socket.

Step 2: Free the brake hose/ABS wire from the strut

  • Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket or Torx bit set (varies by bracket fastener).
  • Use a trim clip tool if any plastic retainers are used.
  • Do not let the knuckle hang by the hose.

Step 3: Disconnect the stabilizer (sway bar) end link from the strut

  • Hold the link stud with the correct Torx bit while removing the nut with a wrench (size varies by link).
  • If the stud spins, use penetrating oil and a breaker bar as needed.
  • Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

  • Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle alignment before disassembly.
  • This helps keep camber close until you get an alignment.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Support the lower control arm/knuckle area lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
  • Remove the two strut-to-knuckle fasteners using a breaker bar 1/2" with appropriate metric sockets/wrenches.
  • If the knuckle clamps the strut, use a strut spreader tool (specialty) to open the pinch slightly.
  • Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

  • Open the hood and locate the strut tower.
  • Remove the upper mount nuts using a socket (typically 13mm).
  • Leave one nut threaded a few turns until you’re ready to catch the strut.
  • Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 7: Remove the strut assembly

  • Hold the strut with one hand, remove the last top nut using a socket, and lower the strut out of the wheel well.
  • Use a pry bar carefully if needed to guide it free.

Step 8: If using quick-struts, skip to Step 10

  • If you are reusing your spring: install the coil spring compressor (specialty) and compress the spring evenly on both sides.
  • Remove the center strut shaft nut using a socket while holding the shaft as required with a Torx bit.
  • Transfer the mount/bearing, spring, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut.
  • Compress only enough to remove tension.

Step 9: Assemble the new strut (non-quick-strut path)

  • Ensure the coil spring ends sit correctly in the spring seats before releasing the compressor.
  • Tighten the shaft nut with a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Install the strut into the vehicle

  • Position the strut in the tower and hand-thread the top nuts using your fingers first.
  • Raise the knuckle slightly using the floor jack and slide the strut into position.
  • Install the strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts using socket/wrench set.
  • Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs) for the strut-to-knuckle fasteners.
  • Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for the upper mount nuts.

Step 11: Reconnect brackets and end link

  • Reinstall the brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket or Torx bit as removed.
  • Reconnect the sway bar end link using wrench and Torx bit to hold the stud.
  • Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) for the end link nut.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

  • Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
  • Lower the SUV off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs) for lug nuts.

✅ After Repair

  • Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks and verify the steering wheel returns normally.
  • Recheck that the brake hose and ABS wire are not twisted or rubbing the tire.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
  • After 50–100 miles, recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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