How to Replace Front Struts on a 2017 Toyota Highlander
Step-by-step loaded strut assembly guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2017 Toyota Highlander
Step-by-step loaded strut assembly guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Highlander - Front Strut Assembly Replacement
Replacing the front struts on your Highlander restores ride control, reduces clunking or bouncing, and helps keep the tires planted on the road. For a beginner, the safest method is replacing complete loaded strut assemblies, which come preassembled with the spring, mount, and strut.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Replace struts in pairs. If one front strut is replaced, replace the other front strut too.
- ⚠️ Use complete loaded strut assemblies. Do not compress the coil spring unless you have proper training and professional spring tools.
- ⚠️ Support your Highlander with jack stands before working underneath or around the wheels. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Do not pull, stretch, or kink the brake hose or ABS wheel speed sensor wire.
- ⚠️ After strut replacement, a wheel alignment is required to prevent tire wear and steering pull.
- ⚠️ Your Highlander is a hybrid, but this repair does not require high-voltage system service. Do not touch orange high-voltage cables.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 21mm lug nut socket
- 22mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 6mm hex key socket
- Ratchet handle 1/2-inch drive
- Ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive
- Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
- Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive 250 ft-lb
- Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive 80 ft-lb
- Box-end wrench 17mm
- Box-end wrench 19mm
- Socket extension 6-inch 3/8-inch drive
- Trim removal tool set
- Flat-blade screwdriver 1/4-inch tip
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil spray
- Rubber mallet 24-ounce
- Pry bar 18-inch
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front loaded strut assembly - Left: 1, Right: 1 - Replace in pairs
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
- Front stabilizer bar link nuts - Qty: 2
- Front strut upper mounting nuts - Qty: 6
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Highlander on level ground.
- Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood before lifting the vehicle.
- Spray the lower strut bolts and stabilizer link nuts with penetrating oil spray and let it soak for 10 minutes.
- A loaded strut assembly is a complete bolt-in unit with the spring already installed.
- A knuckle is the heavy steering part that the wheel hub and strut attach to.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
- Do this while the tires are still touching the ground.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front center jacking point.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side support points.
- Lower your Highlander gently onto the jack stands.
- Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.
- Never work under a jack-only vehicle.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet handle 1/2-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove both front wheels by hand.
- Place the wheels flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Mark the Strut-to-Knuckle Position
- Use a paint marker to draw alignment marks across the strut bracket and steering knuckle.
- This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive safely to an alignment shop.
- It does not replace a professional alignment.
Step 5: Disconnect the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets
- Use a 12mm socket and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
- Use a 10mm socket if the ABS wire bracket uses a smaller bolt on your strut.
- Use a trim removal tool set or flat-blade screwdriver 1/4-inch tip to release any plastic wire clips from the strut body.
- Move the hose and wire aside gently. Do not let them hang tight.
Step 6: Disconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link from the Strut
- Use a 17mm socket and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive to remove the stabilizer bar link nut from the strut bracket.
- If the stud spins, hold the stud with a 6mm hex key socket while turning the nut with a box-end wrench 17mm.
- A stabilizer bar link connects the strut to the sway bar to reduce body roll in turns.
- Push the link out of the strut bracket by hand.
Step 7: Support the Steering Knuckle
- Place the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum lightly under the lower control arm or knuckle area.
- Lift just enough to support the weight of the suspension.
- Do not raise the vehicle off the jack stand.
- This prevents the brake hose and axle from being pulled downward when the strut is removed.
Step 8: Remove the Lower Strut Bolts
- Use a 22mm socket, breaker bar 1/2-inch drive, and box-end wrench 22mm to loosen the two lower strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts.
- If a 22mm wrench is not available, use a box-end wrench 19mm only if your replacement hardware uses 19mm nuts.
- Remove the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a rubber mallet 24-ounce.
- If the bolts are stuck, use a pry bar 18-inch gently to relieve tension at the knuckle.
- Keep one hand on the knuckle so it does not tip outward suddenly.
Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts
- From under the hood, locate the three upper strut mount nuts on the strut tower.
- Use a 14mm socket, socket extension 6-inch 3/8-inch drive, and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive to remove the three upper mount nuts.
- Do not remove the large center nut on the strut assembly.
- The center nut holds spring tension inside the strut assembly.
- Hold the strut with one hand while removing the last upper nut.
Step 10: Remove the Old Strut Assembly
- Lower the old strut assembly out through the wheel well by hand.
- Guide it around the brake hose and ABS wire carefully.
- Do not let the steering knuckle fall outward.
- Slow movements prevent hose damage.
Step 11: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly
- Place the new front loaded strut assembly into the wheel well by hand.
- Align the upper studs with the holes in the strut tower.
- Start the three new front strut upper mounting nuts by hand.
- Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive 80 ft-lb to tighten the upper mount nuts to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Reconnect the Strut to the Steering Knuckle
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise or lower the knuckle until the bolt holes line up.
- Install the new front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts by hand.
- Match your paint marker marks as closely as possible.
- Use a 22mm socket, box-end wrench 22mm, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive 250 ft-lb to tighten the lower strut bolts to Torque to 240 Nm (177 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Reconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link
- Insert the stabilizer bar link stud into the strut bracket by hand.
- Install the new front stabilizer bar link nut by hand.
- Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive 80 ft-lb to tighten the nut to Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
- If the stud spins, hold it with a 6mm hex key socket and tighten with a box-end wrench 17mm.
Step 14: Reattach Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets
- Use a 12mm socket and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive to reinstall the brake hose bracket bolt.
- Tighten the brake hose bracket bolt to Torque to 29 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
- Use a 10mm socket if needed to reinstall the ABS wire bracket bolt.
- Tighten the ABS wire bracket bolt to Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
- Clip all plastic wire retainers back into the strut by hand.
Step 15: Repeat on the Other Side
- Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the opposite front strut.
- Use the same tools and torque specifications.
- Keep left and right struts on their correct sides.
Step 16: Reinstall the Front Wheels
- Install the front wheels by hand.
- Thread the lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet handle 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 17: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift your Highlander slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive 250 ft-lb to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Turn the steering wheel left and right while parked. Listen for rubbing, popping, or pulling wires.
- Check that the brake hoses and ABS wires are clipped in place on both struts.
- Take a slow test drive around the block. Listen for clunks.
- Schedule a four-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive 250 ft-lb.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,500 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$750 (parts only)
You Save: $400-$850 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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