How to Replace Front Struts on a 2017 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step loaded strut assembly guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2017 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step loaded strut assembly guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Altima - Front Strut Assembly Replacement
This repair replaces the front strut assemblies on your Altima. The struts support the front of the vehicle, control bounce, and help keep the tires firmly on the road.
For a first-time DIYer, use complete loaded strut assemblies. These come with the spring and upper mount already installed, so you do not need to compress the coil spring.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Do not remove the center nut on the old strut. That nut holds the compressed spring assembly together.
- ⚠️ Use loaded strut assemblies for safest beginner repair. A loaded strut is a complete ready-to-install strut with spring, mount, and bearing included.
- ⚠️ Always support your Altima with jack stands. Never work under or beside a vehicle held only by a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Support the steering knuckle before removing the strut bolts. The steering knuckle is the metal part that holds the wheel hub and brake assembly.
- ⚠️ Do not stretch the brake hose or ABS wheel speed sensor wire.
- ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs for balanced ride and braking.
- ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacing struts.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
- Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
- Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
- Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
- Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
- 6-inch extension 3/8-inch drive
- 21mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 21mm wrench
- 18mm wrench
- 14mm wrench
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Paint marker
- Rubber mallet
- Pry bar 18-inch
- Bungee cord
- Penetrating oil
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front loaded strut assemblies - Left and Right - Qty: 2
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4 bolts, 4 nuts
- Front stabilizer bar link nuts - Qty: 2
- Front upper strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
📋 Before You Begin
- 🚗 Park your Altima on level ground.
- 🅿️ Shift the transmission to Park and set the parking brake.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind both rear wheels.
- 🔩 Slightly loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
- 🖊️ Mark the position of the old strut where it meets the steering knuckle. This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
- 📐 Plan for a professional wheel alignment after the repair.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts
- Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Loosen before lifting the car.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the front of your Altima.
- Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the front side pinch weld lift points.
- Lower the vehicle slowly onto the jack stands.
- Keep the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) lightly touching the lift point as backup.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels
- Use a 21mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the front lug nuts.
- Remove both front wheels and place them flat on the ground.
Step 4: Access the Upper Strut Mount
- Open the hood.
- Use a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver to move any small plastic covers or clips that block the upper strut mount area.
- Find the three upper strut mount nuts at the top of the strut tower.
- Do not loosen the center strut shaft nut.
Step 5: Mark the Lower Strut Position
- Use a paint marker to draw a line across the lower strut bracket and steering knuckle.
- This mark is only a guide. It does not replace an alignment.
Step 6: Remove Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets
- Use a 12mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the ABS wire bracket bolt if equipped.
- Use a trim clip removal tool if the ABS wire is held by a plastic clip.
- Move the hose and wire aside gently.
Step 7: Disconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link
- The stabilizer bar link is a short rod that connects the sway bar to the strut and helps reduce body roll.
- Use an 18mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the stabilizer bar link nut from the strut.
- If the stud spins, hold it with an 18mm wrench while turning the nut with the 18mm socket.
- Push the link out of the strut bracket.
Step 8: Support the Steering Knuckle
- Use a bungee cord to hold the steering knuckle/brake assembly from pulling outward.
- Do not let it hang by the brake hose or ABS wire.
- Protect wires and hoses first.
Step 9: Remove the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts
- Spray the two lower strut-to-knuckle bolts with penetrating oil.
- Use a 21mm socket, breaker bar 1/2-inch drive, and 21mm wrench to loosen the two lower nuts.
- Remove the nuts.
- Use a rubber mallet to tap the bolts out.
- Use a pry bar 18-inch carefully if the strut bracket is tight against the knuckle.
Step 10: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts
- Hold the strut assembly with one hand so it does not fall.
- Use a 14mm socket, 6-inch extension 3/8-inch drive, and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the three upper strut mount nuts.
- Lower the strut assembly out through the wheel well.
- Again, do not remove the center nut on the old strut.
Step 11: Install the New Loaded Strut
- Guide the new loaded strut assembly up through the wheel well.
- Line up the three upper studs with the holes in the strut tower.
- Install the new upper strut mount nuts by hand first.
- Use a 14mm socket, 6-inch extension 3/8-inch drive, and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the upper mount nuts.
- Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs)
Step 12: Attach the Strut to the Steering Knuckle
- Line up the lower strut bracket with the steering knuckle.
- Use a pry bar 18-inch gently if needed to align the bolt holes.
- Install the new lower strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts by hand.
- Use a 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the bolts/nuts.
- Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs)
Step 13: Reconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link
- Insert the stabilizer bar link stud through the strut bracket.
- Install the new stabilizer bar link nut by hand.
- Use an 18mm socket, 18mm wrench, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the nut.
- Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)
Step 14: Reinstall Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets
- Place the brake hose bracket back onto the strut.
- Use a 12mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the brake hose bracket bolt.
- Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs)
- Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the ABS wire bracket bolt if equipped.
- Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)
- Make sure the hose and wire do not rub the tire or strut.
Step 15: Repeat on the Other Front Side
- Use the same tools and steps to replace the other front loaded strut assembly.
- Keep left and right struts on their correct sides.
Step 16: Reinstall the Front Wheels
- Place each wheel onto the hub.
- Start all lug nuts by hand.
- Use a 21mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 17: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
- Lower your Altima fully to the ground.
- Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs)
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Bounce each front corner by hand. The vehicle should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked. Check that the brake hoses and ABS wires do not stretch or rub.
- ✅ Test drive slowly first. Listen for clunks, rubbing, or popping noises.
- ✅ Get a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
- ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls, avoid highway driving until alignment is completed.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $750-$1,250 (parts + labor + alignment)
DIY Cost: $300-$600 (parts only, alignment not included)
You Save: $350-$650 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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