Assumption: This is for the front strut assemblies. If you mean the rear shocks, the job is different.

🔧 Front Struts - Replacement

The front struts support the suspension, control ride height, and help the tires stay planted on the road. Replacing them restores ride quality, braking stability, and steering control if the originals are worn, leaking, or noisy.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Support the vehicle with jack stands; never work under a truck held only by a jack.
• The front coil spring is under heavy tension. If you are not replacing a complete strut assembly, use a spring compressor (specialty).
• Keep clear of the wheel well while loosening the lower strut bolts; the knuckle can shift.
• After install, have the alignment checked. Strut replacement changes suspension geometry.
• No battery disconnect is required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Breaker bar
• 21mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet
• Torque wrench
• Open-end wrench set
• Pry bar
• Rubber mallet
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assembly - Qty: 2
• Front strut upper mount nuts - Qty: 6
• Front stabilizer link nuts - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting.
• If you are replacing only the strut cartridge or spring, stop and use a spring compressor.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Use the floor jack to raise the front of the vehicle.
• Place jack stands under the frame and lower the vehicle onto them.
• Remove the wheel with a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Disconnect the stabilizer link from the strut

• Use a 17mm socket and open-end wrench to remove the sway bar link nut from the strut bracket.
• If the stud spins, hold it with the matching wrench while removing the nut.
• Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 3: Remove the brake hose and ABS wire brackets

• Use a 10mm socket to remove any brackets attached to the strut body.
• Move the hose and wire aside carefully. Do not stretch them.

Step 4: Mark the strut position

• Use a marker or paint pen to mark the relationship between the strut and knuckle.
• Helps keep camber close on reassembly.

Step 5: Remove the lower strut bolts

• Use a 22mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two lower strut-to-knuckle bolts.
• Support the knuckle so it does not drop suddenly.
• Torque to 196 Nm (145 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood and locate the top of the strut tower.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the three upper mount nuts.
• Hold the strut with one hand while removing the last nut.
• Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 7: Remove the strut assembly

• Lower the strut out of the wheel well.
• If it sticks, use a pry bar gently at the knuckle bracket.
• Do not force the brake hose.

Step 8: Install the new strut assembly

• Position the new strut in the tower first.
• Start the upper mount nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
• Align the lower bracket with the knuckle using a pry bar if needed.
• Install the lower bolts with a 22mm socket, but do not fully tighten yet.

Step 9: Reconnect the sway bar link and brackets

• Use a 17mm socket to install the stabilizer link nut.
• Reinstall the brake hose and ABS wire brackets with a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) for the link nut.

Step 10: Final torque with vehicle at ride height

• Put the wheel back on and snug the lug nuts with a 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle so the suspension is loaded at normal ride height.
• Torque the lower strut bolts to 196 Nm (145 ft-lbs).
• Torque the wheel lug nuts to 131 Nm (97 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive slowly and listen for clunks or rattles.
• Check that the steering wheel is centered.
• Schedule a front-end alignment as soon as possible.
• Recheck all fasteners after the first drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.