🔧 Soul - Front Strut Replacement

On your Soul, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (a shock absorber + coil spring in one unit). Replacing worn struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and steering control, and it’s also common when you have clunks, bouncing, or uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both front)

Assumption: This guide covers the front struts; the rear of your Soul uses shock absorbers (not struts).

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Coil springs store a lot of energy—use a coil spring compressor correctly or use complete “quick-strut” assemblies to avoid spring transfer.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands on solid points; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose/ABS wire; support it to prevent damage.
• ⚠️ If your Soul has ABS wiring clipped to the strut, unclip it before lowering the knuckle.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-200 ft-lbs)
• Torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-80 ft-lbs)
• Socket set metric 8mm-22mm
• Wrench set metric 10mm-22mm
• Hex key set metric
• Pry bar
• Hammer
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty)

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front struts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounts/bearing plates - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops and dust boots - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front stabilizer bar (sway bar) end links - Optional but recommended if loose/noisy - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Optional (replace if damaged/corroded) - Qty: 4

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🧰 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting.
• 🧰 Plan for an alignment after installation; strut removal affects camber/toe.
• 🧰 If you’re transferring springs, inspect the coil spring for cracks/rust and replace if damaged.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Use wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
• Use a breaker bar with a metric socket set to loosen lug nuts.
• Lift the front with a floor jack and place jack stands securely.
• Remove both front wheels using the metric socket set.

Step 2: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

• Spray the nut with penetrating oil and wait a minute.
• Use a metric wrench set and metric hex key set (hex holds the stud from spinning) to remove the end link nut from the strut bracket.
• If the stud spins, add more penetrating oil.

Step 3: Unclip brake hose/ABS wiring from the strut

• Use needle-nose pliers or a trim clip tool to remove any clips/retainers from the strut body.
• Move the brake hose/ABS wire aside so it won’t be stretched.

Step 4: Mark strut-to-knuckle position (helps alignment)

• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and steering knuckle.
• This helps you reassemble close to original.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the lower control arm/knuckle area lightly with the floor jack.
• Use a breaker bar 1/2" with a metric socket set to remove the two large bolts/nuts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.
• If needed, use a hammer to tap the bolts out (tap carefully, don’t mushroom threads).
• Do not pull on the axle or brake hose.

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood.
• Locate the three (typical) upper strut mount nuts at the strut tower.
• Use a metric socket set to remove the upper mount nuts.
• Hold the strut with one hand as the last nut comes off, then remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 7: If reusing the spring, compress and transfer parts

• Install the coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring. Tighten each side evenly until the spring is loose in the upper seat.
• Use a strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty) with a metric wrench set to remove the center strut shaft nut.
• Transfer the strut mount/bearing, spring, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut in the same order/orientation.
• Install the center nut and tighten using the torque wrench.
• Torque to 55-65 Nm (41-48 ft-lbs) (typical Kia strut shaft nut range).
• Slowly release the spring compressor, alternating sides evenly.
• If anything looks crooked, recompress and realign.

Step 8: Install the strut into the strut tower

• Position the strut up into the strut tower.
• Thread the upper mount nuts by hand using your fingers first.
• Use a torque wrench 3/8" with a metric socket set to tighten upper mount nuts.
• Torque to 35-45 Nm (26-33 ft-lbs) (typical upper mount nut range).

Step 9: Reattach strut to steering knuckle

• Align the knuckle to the strut using your paint marks.
• Insert the two lower bolts and start the nuts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2" with a metric socket set to tighten.
• Torque to 155-175 Nm (114-129 ft-lbs) (typical strut-to-knuckle bolt range).

Step 10: Reconnect sway bar end link and reattach clips

• Install the end link to the strut bracket using the metric wrench set and metric hex key set.
• Torque to 45-60 Nm (33-44 ft-lbs) (typical end link nut range).
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS wire clips using needle-nose pliers or trim clip tool.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack, remove jack stands, then fully lower.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2" to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs) (typical Kia 4-lug/5-lug passenger spec range).

---

✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks and confirm straight tracking.
• 🧪 Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25-50 miles.
• 🧪 Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• 🧪 If the steering wheel is off-center after, do not ignore it—alignment is required.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,300 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $220-$700 (parts only, depending on quick-struts vs bare struts)

You Save: $480-$600+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.