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2016 Kia Optima
2016 Kia Optima
Hybrid - Inline 4 2.4L
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  • Guides
  • /
  • Kia Optima
  • /
  • 2016
  • /
  • How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Kia Optima (MacPherson Quick-Strut Guide)
2016 Kia Optima LX front struts replacement

2016 Kia Optima LX front struts replacement

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
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Nitrile
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Kia Optima (MacPherson Quick-Strut Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, torque specs, and alignment notes

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Kia Optima (MacPherson Quick-Strut Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, torque specs, and alignment notes

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Orion Logo White

đź”§ Optima - Strut Replacement

On your Optima, the front suspension uses MacPherson strut assemblies (strut + spring). Replacing worn struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and helps prevent uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

Assumption: Steps cover front struts; rear is typically a separate shock (not a strut). Torque values can vary slightly—verify with Kia service info when possible.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid ground—never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ If you reuse the coil spring, a spring compressor is dangerous if misused. Consider complete strut assemblies (pre-assembled) to avoid spring compression.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands/tools away from orange high-voltage cables (hybrid system). This job normally doesn’t require HV disconnect, but don’t probe or unclip HV wiring.
  • ⚠️ Don’t let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose or ABS wire.
  • ⚠️ Wear eye protection—rust and debris will fall when removing bolts.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 1/2" (30–250 Nm range)
  • Torque wrench 3/8" (10–80 Nm range)
  • Socket set 3/8" drive (10mm–19mm)
  • Socket set 1/2" drive (17mm–22mm)
  • Wrench set (14mm–19mm)
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Flat trim tool
  • Hammer (16 oz)
  • Pry bar (18")
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Spring compressor (specialty)
  • Strut nut socket set (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies (complete quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount/bearing kit - If not included with assemblies - Qty: 2
  • Front bump stops and dust boots - If not included - Qty: 2
  • Front strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts - Recommended (often torque-to-yield by supplier guidance) - Qty: 4
  • Sway bar end link nuts - If damaged/corroded - Qty: 2

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting (use a 19mm socket).
  • Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts and sway bar end link nut (do this 10–20 minutes early).
  • Decide your approach:
    • Best for beginners: use complete strut assemblies (no spring compressor).
    • If reusing springs: you must use a spring compressor (a tool that squeezes the coil spring so it can be removed safely).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the car

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
  • Place jack stands under the front support points and lower the car onto them.
  • Remove both front wheels with a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Unclip brackets from the strut

  • Use a trim tool or needle-nose pliers to remove any clips holding the ABS wire/brake hose bracket to the strut body.
  • Move the harness/hoses aside so they won’t get stretched.
  • Tip: Take a photo before unclipping.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

  • Use a 17mm wrench or 17mm socket to remove the end link nut at the strut bracket.
  • If the stud spins, use a hex key strut nut socket set (specialty) to hold the stud while turning the nut.
  • Torque to 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

  • Use a paint marker to mark the outline of the strut where it meets the steering knuckle.
  • This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Support the steering knuckle from below with the floor jack (light pressure only).
  • Use a breaker bar with 19mm–22mm sockets (varies by fastener) to remove the two large lower bolts/nuts.
  • If stuck, tap the bolts out using a hammer while supporting the knuckle.
  • Torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the strut top mount nuts

  • Open the hood.
  • Locate the three top mount nuts on the strut tower.
  • Use a 14mm socket to remove the nuts while holding the strut so it doesn’t drop.
  • Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
  • Tip: Do not remove the center nut yet.

Step 7: Remove the strut assembly from the car

  • Pull the knuckle outward slightly and guide the strut down and out.
  • Use a pry bar gently if needed to create clearance.

Step 8A: If installing complete strut assemblies (recommended)

  • Compare the new assembly to the old one (spring seat, bracket angles, mount studs).
  • Position the new assembly into the strut tower and hand-thread the three top nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Slide the knuckle onto the strut and install the two lower bolts/nuts using 19mm–22mm sockets.
  • Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 17mm socket.
  • Reinstall ABS/brake line brackets and clips using pliers and a trim tool.

Step 8B: If reusing your spring (spring compressor path)

  • Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the coil and tighten evenly until the spring is loose in the seats.
  • Remove the center top nut using a strut nut socket set (specialty).
  • Move the spring, boot, and mount to the new strut in the same order/orientation.
  • Install the center nut and then slowly release the spring compressor evenly.
  • Torque the center top nut to 60 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
  • Tip: If anything binds, stop and reset.

Step 9: Final tightening (on the ground)

  • Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
  • Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs).
  • Recheck: top mount nuts, end link nut, and lower strut bolts with a torque wrench.

âś… After Repair

  • Test drive slowly first. Listen for clunks over small bumps.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (front strut removal affects camber/toe).
  • After 50–100 km, recheck wheel lug torque with a torque wrench.
  • If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, stop and align—don’t “drive it out.”

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹18,000–₹40,000 (parts + labor, pair)

DIY Cost: ₹10,000–₹28,000 (parts only, pair)

You Save: ₹8,000–₹12,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000–₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3–5 hours.


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