🔧 Forte - Front Strut Replacement

On your Forte, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (a combined shock + spring assembly). Replacing worn/leaking struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces clunking over bumps.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both fronts)

Assumption: You’re replacing the front strut assemblies; the rear of your Forte uses shocks (not struts).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car on jack stands only; never work under a jack.
• 🛑 The coil spring is under high tension—use a spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the spring) correctly, or replace complete quick-strut assemblies to avoid spring transfer.
• 🛑 Keep hands/face out of the spring’s path while compressed.
• 🛑 After strut work, get a front wheel alignment ASAP to prevent tire wear and pulling.
• 🛑 If equipped with ABS wiring brackets, do not stretch or kink the wire.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive (30-200 ft-lbs)
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive (10-80 ft-lbs)
• Socket set 3/8-inch drive (10mm-19mm)
• Socket set 1/2-inch drive (17mm-22mm)
• Wrench set (14mm-19mm)
• Hex key socket set (5mm-8mm)
• Pry bar (24-inch)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat trim tool
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front struts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounts/bearings - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops & dust boots - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end links - Optional if worn - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Recommended (one-time-use style on some builds) - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
• 🔒 Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• 🔧 Loosen front lug nuts with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting (do not remove yet).
• 🧴 Spray strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway link nuts with penetrating oil and let it soak.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle relationship to help keep alignment close until you get it professionally aligned.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Use a floor jack to lift the front at the center jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the front pinch welds or proper support points and lower the car onto them.
• Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket and take off both front wheels.

Step 2: Unbolt brackets from the strut

• Remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut using a 12mm socket.
• Remove the ABS wire/bracket fasteners using a 10mm socket or needle-nose pliers for clips (varies by build).
• Tip: Do not let the caliper hose hang twisted.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

• Remove the end link nut using a 17mm socket or 17mm wrench.
• If the stud spins, hold it with a 6mm hex key socket while turning the nut with the 17mm wrench.
• Torque on install: 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)

Step 4: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the steering knuckle/lower control arm lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop and strain the axle.
• Remove the two large strut-to-knuckle nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Drive the bolts out using a pry bar to wiggle alignment as needed (avoid hammering threads).
• Torque on install: 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the strut mount nuts (top of strut)

• Open the hood.
• At the top of the strut tower, remove the (usually) three mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Keep one nut threaded a few turns until you’re ready to catch the strut from below.
• Torque on install: 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Remove the strut assembly

• Hold the strut from the wheel well, remove the last top nut with a 14mm socket, and lower the strut out.
• Set it on the ground facing upright.

Step 7: Transfer the spring (skip if using complete quick-struts)

• Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly with a ratchet until the spring is loose in the seats.
• Remove the center shaft nut using a strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty) while holding the shaft with the correct hex key socket.
• Move over the mount/bearing, isolators, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut (or install new parts).
• Install the center shaft nut and tighten to 60 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
• Slowly release the spring compressor evenly until the spring is fully seated.
• Tip: Make sure spring ends match the seat pockets.

Step 8: Install the strut into the tower

• Position the strut up into the strut tower and hand-start the top nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Do not fully torque yet—just snug.

Step 9: Attach the knuckle to the strut

• Raise/lower the knuckle with the floor jack until bolt holes line up.
• Install both strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Reconnect the sway link and reinstall brackets

• Install the sway bar end link nut with a 17mm wrench and hold the stud with a 6mm hex key socket if needed.
• Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)
• Reinstall brake hose bracket bolt using a 12mm socket.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
• Reinstall ABS wire/bracket fasteners using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Torque the top mount nuts

• Under the hood, torque the strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch.
• Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car with the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch.
• Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Road-test at low speed first; listen for clunks and confirm steering feels normal.
• 🔍 Re-check that brake hose/ABS wire routing matches the other side and isn’t rubbing the tire.
• 🧰 Re-torque lug nuts to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs) after 25-50 miles.
• 📏 Schedule a front wheel alignment immediately.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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