🔧 Terrain - Front Strut Replacement

On your Terrain, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (a shock + spring assembly). Replacing worn struts restores ride comfort, steering control, and braking stability—especially over bumps and during turns.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

Assumption: replacing both front struts; rear uses shocks, not struts.

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Coil springs store huge energy; avoid compressing springs unless trained.
• ⚠️ If using a spring compressor, keep hands/face out of spring path.
• ⚠️ Keep the brake hose and ABS wire slack; do not let the knuckle hang by them.
• ⚠️ An alignment is required after strut replacement to prevent tire wear.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (30-200 ft-lbs)
• Torque wrench 3/8" drive (5-80 ft-lbs)
• Socket set 3/8" and 1/2" drive (10mm-24mm)
• Wrench set (10mm-24mm)
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 24mm socket
• Torx bit set (T30-T50)
• Pry bar (18")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Punch set
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Bungee cord
• Spring compressor (specialty)

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies (Quick-Strut style recommended) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
• Front strut-to-steering knuckle bolts and nuts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 4
• Front sway bar end links - Replace in pairs (recommended if boots are torn) - Qty: 2
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering straight, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar link nut (10 minutes before removal).
• If you’re not using complete strut assemblies: a spring compressor is a tool that squeezes the coil spring shorter so the top mount can be removed safely.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the front

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).
• Lift the front with a floor jack at the front center jack point.
• Set the vehicle on jack stands under the front subframe points.
• Remove the wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Unclip brake hose and ABS wire from the strut

• Use needle-nose pliers to remove any push-clips holding the ABS wire to the strut.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
• Support the knuckle with a bungee cord so nothing gets stretched.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

• Use an 18mm wrench (and a Torx bit if the stud spins) to remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut tab.
• Tip: hold the stud; don’t strip it.

Step 4: Mark strut-to-knuckle position

• Use a paint marker to draw alignment marks across the strut and steering knuckle.
• This helps keep camber close until you get a professional alignment.

Step 5: Remove strut-to-steering knuckle bolts

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two large bolts/nuts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.
• If bolts are tight, tap them out using a hammer and punch.
• Keep the knuckle supported with a bungee cord so it doesn’t pull on the CV axle.

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood and locate the 3 strut mount nuts at the top of the strut tower.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove the 3 nuts.
• Hold the strut from below as you remove the last nut so it doesn’t drop.

Step 7: Remove the strut assembly

• Work the strut out through the wheel well.
• Use a pry bar carefully if you need more clearance at the knuckle.

Step 8: Install the new strut assembly

• Position the new strut into the strut tower and start the 3 upper nuts by hand.
• Make sure the lower strut bracket lines up with the steering knuckle.
• Install the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts by hand first.

Step 9: Torque fasteners (critical)

• Use a torque wrench 1/2" drive to torque the strut-to-knuckle bolts: Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 3/8" drive to torque the upper strut mount nuts: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench to torque the sway bar end link nut: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the brake hose bracket bolt: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
• Tip: torque with suspension hanging is OK here.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheels using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2" drive.

Step 11: Repeat on the other side

• Replace the other front strut using the same steps.
• Struts should be replaced in pairs to keep handling even.

---

✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and confirm the brake hose and ABS wire are not pulled tight.
• Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.