How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Ford Flex (MacPherson Quick-Strut Guide)
Step-by-step front suspension strut replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Ford Flex (MacPherson Quick-Strut Guide)
Step-by-step front suspension strut replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs


🔧 Flex - Front Strut Replacement
On your Flex, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (a shock + coil spring assembly). Replacing worn struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and steering control, and it also prevents uneven tire wear.
Assumption: You mean the front struts. (The rear of your Flex uses separate shocks and springs, not “struts.”)
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
- ⚠️ If you are NOT installing a complete strut assembly (“quick-strut”), the coil spring is under high force. A spring compressor (tool that safely squeezes the spring) is required. Improper use can cause serious injury.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points at the steering knuckle and strut mount.
- ⚠️ Plan on a wheel alignment after strut replacement (camber can change).
- ✅ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (20–250 ft-lbs range)
- Socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2")
- Wrench set (8mm–24mm)
- 18mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 24mm socket
- Torx T30 bit
- Pry bar (18")
- Needle-nose pliers
- Flat trim tool
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Bungee cord
- Spring compressor (internal or external) (specialty)
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
- Front sway bar end links - Optional but recommended if loose/noisy - Qty: 2
- Front upper strut mount nuts - Optional if damaged/corroded - Qty: 6
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
- Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar (do not remove yet).
- Open the hood and locate the strut tower (top of the strut) nuts so you know where they are, but do not remove them yet.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the front end
- Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front jacking point.
- Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) placed under solid frame/support points.
- Remove both front wheels using a 21mm socket.
Step 2: Disconnect the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut
- Spray fasteners with penetrating oil.
- Remove the brake hose bracket fastener(s) from the strut using a 10mm socket.
- Remove any ABS wire clips from the strut using a flat trim tool.
- Tip: Don’t pull on the ABS wire itself.
Step 3: Remove the sway bar end link from the strut
- Remove the end link nut at the strut using an 18mm wrench.
- If the stud spins, hold the stud with a Torx T30 bit while turning the nut.
- Torque on reassembly: 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs)
- Tip: If boots are torn, replace the links.
Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position
- Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and the steering knuckle.
- This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to the shop, but you still need an alignment.
Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts
- Support the steering knuckle so it doesn’t drop and stress the axle or ball joints. Use a floor jack lightly under the control arm, or a bungee cord to support the knuckle.
- Remove the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar (bolt head size may vary; use the correct matching socket/wrench from your set).
- Use a pry bar (18") to gently separate the knuckle from the strut if needed.
- Torque on reassembly: 240 Nm (177 ft-lbs)
Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts and take the strut out
- From under the hood, remove the upper strut mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
- Hold the strut from below as you remove the last nut so it doesn’t fall.
- Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
- Torque on reassembly: 46 Nm (34 ft-lbs)
Step 7: If using quick-struts, install the new assembly
- Position the new quick-strut into the strut tower and start the top nuts by hand using a 13mm socket (do not fully tighten yet).
- Slide the strut into the steering knuckle and install the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
- Align your paint marks as closely as possible.
- Torque: Upper mount nuts 46 Nm (34 ft-lbs); Strut-to-knuckle bolts 240 Nm (177 ft-lbs)
Step 8: If NOT using quick-struts (spring swap)
- Install a spring compressor (specialty) on the coil spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose on the mount.
- Remove the strut shaft nut using a 24mm socket while holding the shaft with the correct counter-hold (often an internal hex/Torx depending on the strut design).
- Transfer the spring, boot, and mount in the same order onto the new strut.
- Release the spring compressor slowly and evenly.
- Tip: For first-timers, quick-struts are safer.
Step 9: Reconnect brackets and end link
- Reconnect the sway bar end link using an 18mm wrench and Torx T30 bit if needed.
- Torque: 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs)
- Reattach brake hose bracket using a 10mm socket.
- Torque: 10 Nm (89 in-lbs)
- Re-clip the ABS wire using needle-nose pliers if required.
Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle
- Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
- Lower the Flex off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Torque lug nuts: 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
✅ After Repair
- Start the Flex and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked to confirm no rubbing or stretched wires/hoses.
- Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks over small bumps.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)
You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















