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2016 Ford Flex
2016 Ford Flex
SE - V6 3.5L
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  • Guides
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  • Ford Flex
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  • 2016
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  • How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Ford Flex (MacPherson Quick-Strut Guide)
How to Replace Strut & Spring Assembly 2009-2019 Ford Flex

How to Replace Strut & Spring Assembly 2009-2019 Ford Flex

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
1/2
1/2
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Ford Flex (MacPherson Quick-Strut Guide)

Step-by-step front suspension strut replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Ford Flex (MacPherson Quick-Strut Guide)

Step-by-step front suspension strut replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Flex - Front Strut Replacement

On your Flex, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (a shock + coil spring assembly). Replacing worn struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and steering control, and it also prevents uneven tire wear.

Assumption: You mean the front struts. (The rear of your Flex uses separate shocks and springs, not “struts.”)

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ If you are NOT installing a complete strut assembly (“quick-strut”), the coil spring is under high force. A spring compressor (tool that safely squeezes the spring) is required. Improper use can cause serious injury.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points at the steering knuckle and strut mount.
  • ⚠️ Plan on a wheel alignment after strut replacement (camber can change).
  • ✅ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (20–250 ft-lbs range)
  • Socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2")
  • Wrench set (8mm–24mm)
  • 18mm socket
  • 21mm socket
  • 24mm socket
  • Torx T30 bit
  • Pry bar (18")
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Flat trim tool
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil
  • Bungee cord
  • Spring compressor (internal or external) (specialty)
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
  • Front sway bar end links - Optional but recommended if loose/noisy - Qty: 2
  • Front upper strut mount nuts - Optional if damaged/corroded - Qty: 6

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
  • Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar (do not remove yet).
  • Open the hood and locate the strut tower (top of the strut) nuts so you know where they are, but do not remove them yet.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

  • Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front jacking point.
  • Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) placed under solid frame/support points.
  • Remove both front wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Disconnect the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut

  • Spray fasteners with penetrating oil.
  • Remove the brake hose bracket fastener(s) from the strut using a 10mm socket.
  • Remove any ABS wire clips from the strut using a flat trim tool.
  • Tip: Don’t pull on the ABS wire itself.

Step 3: Remove the sway bar end link from the strut

  • Remove the end link nut at the strut using an 18mm wrench.
  • If the stud spins, hold the stud with a Torx T30 bit while turning the nut.
  • Torque on reassembly: 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs)
  • Tip: If boots are torn, replace the links.

Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

  • Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and the steering knuckle.
  • This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to the shop, but you still need an alignment.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Support the steering knuckle so it doesn’t drop and stress the axle or ball joints. Use a floor jack lightly under the control arm, or a bungee cord to support the knuckle.
  • Remove the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar (bolt head size may vary; use the correct matching socket/wrench from your set).
  • Use a pry bar (18") to gently separate the knuckle from the strut if needed.
  • Torque on reassembly: 240 Nm (177 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts and take the strut out

  • From under the hood, remove the upper strut mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
  • Hold the strut from below as you remove the last nut so it doesn’t fall.
  • Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
  • Torque on reassembly: 46 Nm (34 ft-lbs)

Step 7: If using quick-struts, install the new assembly

  • Position the new quick-strut into the strut tower and start the top nuts by hand using a 13mm socket (do not fully tighten yet).
  • Slide the strut into the steering knuckle and install the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Align your paint marks as closely as possible.
  • Torque: Upper mount nuts 46 Nm (34 ft-lbs); Strut-to-knuckle bolts 240 Nm (177 ft-lbs)

Step 8: If NOT using quick-struts (spring swap)

  • Install a spring compressor (specialty) on the coil spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose on the mount.
  • Remove the strut shaft nut using a 24mm socket while holding the shaft with the correct counter-hold (often an internal hex/Torx depending on the strut design).
  • Transfer the spring, boot, and mount in the same order onto the new strut.
  • Release the spring compressor slowly and evenly.
  • Tip: For first-timers, quick-struts are safer.

Step 9: Reconnect brackets and end link

  • Reconnect the sway bar end link using an 18mm wrench and Torx T30 bit if needed.
  • Torque: 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs)
  • Reattach brake hose bracket using a 10mm socket.
  • Torque: 10 Nm (89 in-lbs)
  • Re-clip the ABS wire using needle-nose pliers if required.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

  • Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
  • Lower the Flex off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque lug nuts: 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the Flex and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked to confirm no rubbing or stretched wires/hoses.
  • Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks over small bumps.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
  • Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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