🔧 Explorer - Front Strut Replacement

On your Explorer, the front suspension uses a MacPherson strut (shock + spring assembly). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and tire wear, and it usually requires an alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours (both fronts)

Assumption: Replacing front strut assemblies (“quick struts”) for easiest DIY.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never loosen the center nut on a strut top mount unless the spring is compressed.
• ⚠️ Support the steering knuckle so the CV axle and brake hose are not stretched.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands under the frame; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ If you use a spring compressor (a tool that squeezes the spring), follow its instructions exactly and keep hands/face out of the spring’s path.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-200 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 18mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat trim tool
• Pry bar
• Rubber mallet
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Bungee cord
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies (quick struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts - Replace in pairs (recommended) - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nut.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the approved front lift point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and take both front wheels off.

Step 2: Unclip/unwrap ABS and brake line brackets from the strut

• Remove the brake hose/line bracket fastener(s) using a 10mm socket (some brackets use 13mm socket).
• Unclip any ABS wire retainers using a flat trim tool and needle-nose pliers.
• Use a bungee cord to lightly support the hose/wire so nothing is pulled tight.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

• Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench.
• If the stud spins, hold it steady with the 18mm wrench while turning the nut with the 18mm socket.

Step 4: Mark position and remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle area so you can reinstall close to the original position. This helps alignment get close.
• Support the steering knuckle from below with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) (light pressure only).
• Remove the 2 lower strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts using an 18mm socket, breaker bar, and 18mm wrench.
• If needed, tap the bolts out using a rubber mallet.

Step 5: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood.
• Remove the upper strut mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
• Leave one nut threaded a few turns until you’re ready to catch the strut.

Step 6: Remove the strut assembly

• Hold the strut with one hand, then remove the last upper nut using a 13mm socket.
• Guide the strut out of the wheel well.
• If it’s stuck at the knuckle, use a pry bar gently while keeping the knuckle supported.

Step 7: Install the new strut assembly

• Place the new strut into position and start the upper mount nuts by hand.
• Align the strut-to-knuckle holes and install the lower bolts/nuts by hand first.
• Torque fasteners:
  • Upper strut mount nuts: Torque to 46 Nm (34 ft-lbs)
  • Strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts: Torque to 184 Nm (136 ft-lbs)
  • Sway bar end link nut: Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Reattach brackets, reinstall wheels, and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall ABS wire clips and brake hose/line brackets using a 10mm socket (or 13mm socket, as equipped).
• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Repeat on the other front side

• Repeat Steps 2-8 for the other front strut.

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✅ After Repair

• Drive slowly at first and listen for clunks or rubbing.
• Recheck that ABS wires and brake hoses are not twisted or stretched.
• Get a professional alignment as soon as possible. New struts can change camber/toe.
• Re-torque the lug nuts using a torque wrench after 50-100 miles: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $350-$800 (parts only, both fronts)

You Save: $550-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.