🔧 Expedition - Front Strut Replacement

On your Expedition, the “struts” are the front shock/spring assemblies that support the vehicle and control bouncing. Replacing worn struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and steering control.

Assumption: You’re replacing the front strut assemblies (rear uses shocks + separate springs, not struts).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours (both sides)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on a flat, solid surface and support the frame with jack stands (never rely on a jack).
• If you are not installing a complete quick-strut (pre-assembled strut + spring + mount), using a spring compressor can be dangerous—springs store a lot of energy.
• Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose or ABS wire.
• After strut replacement, a 4-wheel alignment is strongly recommended.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set 10mm-24mm
• Wrench set 10mm-24mm
• Torx bit set (T30-T50)
• Pry bar (18-24")
• Hammer (2-3 lb)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assembly (quick-strut recommended) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Front sway bar end links - Optional if worn - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Break loose the front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar (do not remove yet).
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nut.
• If reusing springs (not recommended for beginners), set up the spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the spring shorter for removal).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front

• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front jacking point.
• Support the frame with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the front wheel using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Unbolt brackets from the strut

• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using the appropriate 10mm socket or Torx bit (varies by bracket fastener).
• Tip: Take a quick photo for routing.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link (if it attaches to the strut)

• Remove the sway bar end link nut using a 18mm wrench and a Torx bit in the stud (commonly required to keep the stud from spinning).
• If the link is seized, use penetrating oil and a breaker bar.

Step 4: Support the knuckle and remove the lower strut bolts

• Place a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) lightly under the lower control arm/knuckle area to support it.
• Mark the relationship of the strut to the knuckle using a paint marker (helps keep camber close).
• Remove the two lower strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
• If the bolts are tight in the knuckle, tap them out with a hammer (2-3 lb) and use a pry bar (18-24") for gentle leverage.

Step 5: Remove the upper mount nuts and take out the strut

• Open the hood and locate the strut mount at the top of the strut tower.
• Remove the upper mount nuts using a 15mm socket, leaving one nut threaded on a few turns until you’re ready to catch the strut.
• Hold the strut from below, remove the last upper nut with the 15mm socket, then lower the strut assembly out of the wheel well.

Step 6: Install the new strut assembly

• Guide the new strut into place and start the upper mount nuts by hand.
• Align the lower strut to the knuckle and install the lower bolts by hand, then install the nuts.
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using the 18mm wrench and Torx bit.
• Reinstall the brake hose/ABS brackets using the 10mm socket or Torx bit.

Step 7: Torque fasteners (with the suspension supported)

• With the knuckle/control arm supported at normal ride position using the floor jack, torque the fasteners using a 1/2" drive torque wrench:
• Upper strut mount nuts: Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs)
• Lower strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts: Torque to 250 Nm (184 ft-lbs)
• Sway bar end link nut: Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Reinstall the wheel and repeat on the other side

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a 1/2" drive torque wrench: Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs)
• Repeat the same procedure on the other front side.

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✅ After Repair

• Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks and confirm straight braking.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a 1/2" drive torque wrench: Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs)
• If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, do not ignore it—get alignment corrected.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.