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2016 Ford Escape
2016 Ford Escape
SE - Inline 4 2.5L
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How to Replace Front Strut & Spring Assemblies 2013-2019 Ford Escape

How to Replace Front Strut & Spring Assemblies 2013-2019 Ford Escape

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
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Safety
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Ford Escape (Quick-Strut Install Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs plus alignment notes

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Ford Escape (Quick-Strut Install Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs plus alignment notes

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Escape - Front Strut Replacement

The front struts on your Escape support the vehicle, control bounce, and keep the tires planted for safe braking and steering. Replacing worn struts restores ride quality and handling, and it’s best done in pairs (left and right) to keep the front end balanced.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Replacing complete front strut assemblies (quick-struts).


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ The coil spring is under extreme tension; never disassemble a strut without a proper spring compressor.
  • ⚠️ Support the Escape with jack stands; never work under a vehicle held only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Keep the steering knuckle supported so the CV axle isn’t pulled outward.
  • ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper or hose hang by the hose.
  • ⚠️ An alignment is required after strut replacement to prevent tire wear and pulling.
  • Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 1/2" (30-250 ft-lbs range)
  • Torque wrench 3/8" (10-100 ft-lbs range)
  • Socket set 3/8" drive (8mm-21mm)
  • Socket set 1/2" drive (15mm-24mm)
  • Wrench set (13mm-21mm)
  • 21mm lug nut socket
  • Pry bar (18")
  • Hammer (2 lb)
  • Punch set
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Trim clip tool
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Spring compressor (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front complete strut assembly - Left - Qty: 1
  • Front complete strut assembly - Right - Qty: 1
  • Front strut-to-knuckle bolt and nut set - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front upper strut mount nuts - Replace in sets - Qty: 6

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, turn the engine off, and set the parking brake.
  • Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Loosen the front lug nuts 1 turn using a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2" before lifting.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nut.
  • If you are not using complete strut assemblies: you must use a spring compressor (specialty) (a tool that safely squeezes the spring so it can’t “explode” outward).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front

  • Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front center jacking point.
  • Set the Escape down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the pinch welds or approved support points.
  • Remove both front wheels using a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2".

Step 2: Unclip ABS wire and brake hose brackets

  • On the strut body, remove the ABS wire and brake hose retaining clips using a trim clip tool and needle-nose pliers.
  • Remove any small bracket bolts using a 10mm socket.
  • Tip: Don’t pull on the ABS wire.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

  • Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using an 18mm wrench and socket set 3/8" drive as needed.
  • If the stud spins, hold it with the appropriate internal hex using your socket set 3/8" drive (hex bit) while turning the nut.

Step 4: Mark the knuckle position (helps alignment get close)

  • Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle relationship before loosening bolts.
  • This does not replace a real alignment, but it helps keep the camber close for the drive to the shop.

Step 5: Support the steering knuckle

  • Place a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) lightly under the lower control arm or knuckle area to support it.
  • This prevents the axle from over-extending when the strut comes free.

Step 6: Remove strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Remove the two large bolts/nuts connecting the strut to the steering knuckle using a 21mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
  • Tap bolts out using a hammer (2 lb) and punch set while supporting the knuckle.

Step 7: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

  • Open the hood and locate the strut tower nuts.
  • Remove the upper mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
  • Keep one nut threaded a few turns until you’re ready to catch the strut.

Step 8: Remove the strut assembly

  • Hold the strut from below, remove the last upper nut using a 13mm socket, and guide the strut out of the wheel well.
  • If it’s tight, use a pry bar (18") carefully between the knuckle and strut to free it.

Step 9: Install the new strut assembly

  • Guide the new strut into the strut tower and start the upper nuts by hand.
  • Align the strut bracket with the knuckle and insert the two knuckle bolts.
  • Tighten the strut-to-knuckle fasteners using a socket set 1/2" drive and torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs) + 90°.
  • Tighten the upper strut mount nuts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench 3/8": Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reconnect sway bar end link, ABS wire, and brake hose

  • Reconnect the sway bar end link to the strut using an 18mm socket and torque wrench 3/8": Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
  • Reinstall all clips using needle-nose pliers and a trim clip tool.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the Escape

  • Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly and confirm nothing rubs or pulls.
  • Test drive at low speed first. Listen for clunks over small bumps.
  • Recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench 1/2" after 25-50 miles.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $300-$800 (parts only, both front)

You Save: $600-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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