How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Chrysler Town & Country (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts list, safety tips, and install steps—plus what to torque and when to get an alignment
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Chrysler Town & Country (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts list, safety tips, and install steps—plus what to torque and when to get an alignment


đź”§ Town & Country - Front Strut Replacement
This job replaces the front strut assemblies, which control ride quality and keep your front tires planted. Worn struts can cause clunks, bouncing, uneven tire wear, and longer stopping distances.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
Assumption: You’re replacing both front struts (recommended in pairs).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the van on jack stands before working underneath.
- ⚠️ Coil springs store serious energy—use a spring compressor correctly or replace complete “quick-strut” assemblies to avoid disassembly.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points at the steering knuckle and strut.
- ⚠️ If your Town & Country has a wheel speed sensor wire/ABS harness clipped to the strut, do not stretch or twist it.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 1/2" drive (30-250 ft-lbs range)
- Torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-100 ft-lbs range)
- Socket set 3/8" drive (8mm-19mm)
- Socket set 1/2" drive (15mm-24mm)
- Wrench set (13mm-21mm)
- Ratchet 3/8" drive
- Ratchet 1/2" drive
- Extensions 3/8" drive (3" and 6")
- Pry bar
- Hammer
- Punch set
- Needle-nose pliers
- Trim clip remover
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Spring compressor (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front strut assembly - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount/bearing kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front bump stop and dust boot kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 1 set
- Front sway bar end links - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a breaker bar before lifting.
- Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nut.
- Plan an alignment after this job.
- A “quick-strut” avoids spring compressor use.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheel
- Use a floor jack to lift the front and place the van on jack stands at safe support points.
- Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket and ratchet (or breaker bar).
Step 2: Free the brake hose/ABS wire from the strut
- Locate the brake hose bracket and any ABS wire clips on the strut body.
- Remove small bracket bolts with a 10mm socket and ratchet, and pop clips out using a trim clip remover.
- Don’t let the knuckle hang by the hose.
Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut
- Remove the end link nut at the strut using an 18mm wrench and 18mm socket.
- If the stud spins, hold it with pliers on the flats while turning the nut.
Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position
- Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle area so you can reassemble close to the original position.
- This helps reduce alignment change.
Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts
- Support the steering knuckle lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
- Remove the two strut-to-knuckle nuts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
- Drive the bolts out using a punch and hammer.
- Separate the strut from the knuckle using a pry bar if needed.
- Torque to factory specification (service manual) on reassembly.
Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts
- Open the hood and locate the strut tower nuts at the top mount.
- Hold the strut from below with one hand while removing the top mount nuts using a 15mm socket and ratchet.
- Lower the strut assembly out of the wheel well.
- Torque to factory specification (service manual) on reassembly.
Step 7: If not using quick-struts, transfer the spring and mount
- Install a spring compressor (specialty) onto the coil spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
- Spring compressor = tool that safely squeezes the coil spring.
- Remove the center shaft nut using the appropriate socket and wrench for your new strut kit.
- Transfer the spring, isolators, dust boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut in the same order.
- Release the spring compressor slowly and evenly.
- Torque to factory specification (service manual) for the strut shaft nut.
Step 8: Install the new strut assembly
- Position the strut up into the strut tower and start the upper mount nuts by hand.
- Tighten the upper nuts using a 15mm socket and torque wrench.
- Torque to factory specification (service manual).
Step 9: Reattach the strut to the steering knuckle
- Align the strut with the knuckle using the floor jack to raise/lower the knuckle as needed.
- Install the strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar, then final-tighten with a torque wrench.
- Torque to factory specification (service manual).
Step 10: Reinstall sway bar end link and brackets
- Reinstall the sway bar end link nut using an 18mm socket and torque wrench.
- Reinstall brake hose bracket bolts using a 10mm socket and torque wrench.
- Reclip any ABS wire retainers using a trim clip remover as needed.
- Torque to factory specification (service manual).
Step 11: Reinstall wheel and lower the van
- Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the van using the floor jack, then tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
- Torque to 136 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Repeat on the other side
- Repeat the same steps on the other front corner.
- Replacing in pairs keeps handling balanced.
âś… After Repair
- Road-test at low speed first and listen for clunks or rubbing.
- Recheck that brake hose/ABS wiring is clipped and not stretched at full steering lock.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear.
- After 50-100 miles, recheck for any looseness or unusual noises.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$950 (parts only)
You Save: $550-$850 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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