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2016 Chevrolet Traverse
2016 Chevrolet Traverse
LT - V6 3.6L
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How To Replace Struts  - Tips & Tricks For Easy Install - 2009-2017 Chevy Traverse

How To Replace Struts - Tips & Tricks For Easy Install - 2009-2017 Chevy Traverse

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
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Safety
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Chevrolet Traverse (MacPherson Strut Guide)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and post-repair alignment checks

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Chevrolet Traverse (MacPherson Strut Guide)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and post-repair alignment checks

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Orion Logo White

šŸ”§ Traverse - Front Strut Replacement

On your Traverse, the front suspension uses a MacPherson strut (the shock and spring are one assembly). Replacing worn struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and steering control, and it also helps prevent uneven tire wear.

Assumption: You mean the front struts; the rear of your Traverse typically uses shocks + separate springs (not struts).

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both fronts)


āš ļø Safety & Precautions

  • āš ļø Never loosen the center nut on top of the strut without the spring secured.
  • āš ļø Use jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • āš ļø Coil springs store huge energy; if you’re not experienced, use complete strut assemblies to avoid spring transfer.
  • āš ļø Support the steering knuckle so the axle/CV joints aren’t over-extended.
  • āš ļø Keep the ABS wire and brake hose from being stretched or twisted.

šŸ”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (3/8")
  • Socket set (8mm–24mm)
  • Wrench set (8mm–24mm)
  • Ratchet (3/8")
  • Ratchet (1/2")
  • Torx bit set
  • Pry bar
  • Hammer
  • Punch set
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Bungee cord
  • Spring compressor (external) (specialty)
  • Strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty)

šŸ”© Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies (quick struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount/bearing kit - If not included with quick struts - Qty: 2
  • Front strut dust boot and bump stop kit - If not included - Qty: 2
  • Front stabilizer (sway bar) end links - Optional if worn - Qty: 2
  • Front strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts - Recommended if specified as one-time-use - Qty: 4

šŸ“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a breaker bar and correct lug socket before lifting.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nuts.
  • Tip: Replace both front struts together.

šŸ”Ø Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jack point.
  • Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the proper support points.
  • Remove the wheels using a lug socket and ratchet (1/2").

Step 2: Unclip and unbolt the brake hose/ABS wire from the strut

  • Locate the brackets on the strut that hold the brake hose and ABS wire.
  • Remove bracket bolts using the correct socket and ratchet (3/8").
  • Carefully free the lines and keep them slack; use a bungee cord if needed.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

  • Remove the end link nut at the strut using the correct socket and wrench.
  • If the stud spins, use the appropriate Torx bit to hold the stud while loosening the nut.
  • Tip: End links often seize—go slow.

Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle relationship

  • Use a paint marker to mark the position of the strut against the steering knuckle.
  • This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Support the steering knuckle with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it can’t drop.
  • Remove the two large bolts/nuts that clamp the strut to the knuckle using a breaker bar (1/2") and correct socket set.
  • Tap the bolts out using a hammer and punch set as needed.
  • Torque to factory specification (refer to GM service information).

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

  • Open the hood and locate the strut tower top mount.
  • Remove the mount nuts using a socket and ratchet (3/8").
  • Leave one nut loosely threaded until you’re ready to catch the strut.
  • Torque to factory specification (refer to GM service information).

Step 7: Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle

  • Hold the strut, remove the last top nut using a socket and ratchet (3/8"), then guide the strut out.
  • Move the knuckle slightly outward by hand if you need clearance; do not pull on the axle.

Step 8: If using quick struts, skip to installation

  • If you bought complete strut assemblies (quick struts), the spring is already installed and safe.
  • If you are reusing the spring, you must compress it first using a spring compressor (external) (specialty).
  • A spring compressor is a clamp tool that squeezes the coil spring so it can’t expand suddenly.

Step 9: If reusing the spring, transfer components (only if experienced)

  • Install the spring compressor (external) (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly using the correct socket and ratchet.
  • Once the spring is loose in the seats, remove the center top nut using a strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty).
  • Transfer the mount/bearing, boot, and bump stop as needed, then assemble onto the new strut.
  • Release the spring compressor slowly and evenly until the spring seats correctly.
  • Torque to factory specification (refer to GM service information).

Step 10: Install the strut into the tower

  • Position the strut up into the strut tower.
  • Start the top mount nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Snug them using a socket and ratchet (3/8"), but don’t final-torque yet.

Step 11: Attach the strut to the steering knuckle

  • Align your paint marks and slide the knuckle onto the strut.
  • Install the bolts and nuts using a socket set (8mm–24mm) and ratchet (1/2").
  • Final tighten using a torque wrench (1/2").
  • Torque to factory specification (refer to GM service information).

Step 12: Reconnect sway bar end link, brackets, and clips

  • Reconnect the sway bar end link using the correct socket and wrench.
  • Reinstall brake hose and ABS wire brackets using the correct socket and ratchet (3/8").
  • Torque to factory specification (refer to GM service information).

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

  • Install the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2").
  • Torque to factory specification (refer to GM service information).

Step 14: Final-torque the upper mount nuts

  • With the vehicle on the ground, final-torque the upper mount nuts using a torque wrench (3/8") and correct socket.
  • Torque to factory specification (refer to GM service information).

āœ… After Repair

  • Test drive slowly and listen for clunks, pops, or rubbing.
  • Recheck that ABS wire/brake hose routing is not twisted and has slack at full steering lock.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible after replacing front struts.
  • Tip: Alignment prevents rapid tire wear.

šŸ’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,700 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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