Howtoo Logo
2016 Cadillac SRX
2016 Cadillac SRX
Base - V6 3.6L
Bryan specialist avatar

Have a Question? Ask a Specialist

Here is everything needed for this repair

See what I can do

Make Money

With HowToo

OnOff

Here is just the beginning of what I can do!

Select one to see me in action

Vehicle Features

Image Vehicle Features

How do I connect my phone to my stereo?

Vehicle Information

Image Vehicle Information

What is my horsepower and torque

Image Recognition

Image Image Recognition

What is this warning light on my dash?

Troubleshooting

Image Troubleshooting

I have a P0300 engine code

Vehicle Recognition

Image Vehicle Recognition

What vehicle is this?

Find shops near you

Image Find shops near you

Find a shop to do this repair

Vehicle Talk

Image Vehicle Talk

What’s your favorite vehicle of all time?

How to Replace Front Strut Assembly 2010-2016 Cadillac SRX

How to Replace Front Strut Assembly 2010-2016 Cadillac SRX

Suggested Parts

See all parts background
See All Parts

Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
22mm
22mm
Socket
or (7/8")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
See all parts background
See All Tools

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Cadillac SRX (DIY Repair Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, key torque specs, and alignment advice

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Cadillac SRX (DIY Repair Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, key torque specs, and alignment advice

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

Assumption: You’re replacing the front struts on your SRX (the rear uses shocks + separate springs, not “struts”).

🔧 SRX - Front Strut Replacement

The front struts support the vehicle’s weight, control bounce, and keep your tires planted. Replacing worn struts restores ride control and helps prevent uneven tire wear, but you must finish with a wheel alignment.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the SRX on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ If you’re swapping the spring onto a new strut, use a coil spring compressor (it clamps the spring so it can’t “release” violently).
  • ⚠️ Keep hands/face away from the spring and top mount while compressing.
  • ⚠️ Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose or ABS wire.
  • ⚠️ After strut work, get a professional alignment ASAP.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Lug nut socket 22mm
  • Ratchet 3/8"
  • Ratchet 1/2"
  • Socket set metric 10mm-24mm
  • Wrench set metric 10mm-24mm
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 20-250 Nm
  • Pry bar 18"-24"
  • Hammer 2 lb
  • Punch set
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Trim clip tool
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Coil spring compressor (specialty)
  • Strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty)
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut (left) - Qty: 1
  • Front strut (right) - Qty: 1
  • Front upper strut mount/bearing - Qty: 2
  • Front bump stop and dust boot kit - Qty: 2
  • Front sway bar end link - Qty: 2
  • Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
  • Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 22mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • Open the hood and locate the three upper strut mount nuts at each strut tower (do not remove them yet).
  • Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nut using penetrating oil.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

  • Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front jack point.
  • Set the SRX securely onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Remove lug nuts using a 22mm socket and ratchet 1/2", then remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Detach brackets and wiring from the strut

  • Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using the appropriate 10mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
  • Pop any plastic retainers free using a trim clip tool.
  • Keep hoses relaxed, never stretched.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

  • Remove the end link nut using an 18mm wrench and socket.
  • If the stud spins, hold it with the internal drive using a pass-through strut socket set (specialty) or the appropriate internal-hold method on your link.

Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

  • Use a paint marker to mark the outline where the strut meets the steering knuckle.
  • This helps get alignment close enough to drive to the alignment shop.

Step 5: Remove strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Support the lower control arm/knuckle area lightly with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop suddenly.
  • Remove the two large strut-to-knuckle nuts using a breaker bar 1/2" and correctly sized socket (commonly 21mm-24mm).
  • Tap the bolts out using a hammer 2 lb and punch set.
  • Don’t hit threads directly—use a punch.

Step 6: Remove the strut assembly from the body

  • From the engine bay, remove the three upper mount nuts using a socket and ratchet 3/8" (commonly 15mm).
  • Hold the strut as you remove the last nut, then guide the strut assembly out of the wheel well.

Step 7: If reusing the spring, swap it onto the new strut

  • Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) onto the spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
  • Remove the top center nut using a strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty).
  • Transfer the spring, dust boot, bump stop, and mount/bearing to the new strut.
  • Install the top center nut and tighten using a torque wrench 20-250 Nm: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) (verify with OEM service info for your parts).
  • Slowly release the compressor, making sure the spring ends seat correctly in the upper and lower pockets.

Step 8: Install the strut into the SRX

  • Position the strut up into the strut tower and start the three upper nuts by hand.
  • Tighten the upper mount nuts using a torque wrench 20-250 Nm: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) (verify with OEM service info).

Step 9: Reconnect the strut to the steering knuckle

  • Line up your paint marks, then slide the knuckle into the strut bracket.
  • Install new strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts, then tighten using a torque wrench 20-250 Nm: Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs) + 90° (torque-to-yield style; verify with OEM service info and use new hardware).

Step 10: Reinstall sway bar end link and brackets

  • Attach the sway bar end link to the strut and tighten using a torque wrench 20-250 Nm: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) (verify with OEM service info).
  • Reattach brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket and ratchet 3/8": Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) (verify with OEM service info).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the SRX

  • Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the SRX off the jack stands using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 20-250 Nm: Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Start the SRX and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm nothing rubs or pulls.
  • Road test slowly, listening for clunks over bumps.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
  • Recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench after 50-100 miles.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Parts
Tools
Menu
Videos
Earn