How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Buick LaCrosse (Complete Quick-Strut Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, torque spec notes, and alignment reminders
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Buick LaCrosse (Complete Quick-Strut Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, torque spec notes, and alignment reminders


🔧 LaCrosse - Strut Replacement
On your LaCrosse, the front suspension uses complete strut assemblies (strut + coil spring + top mount). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and helps stop clunks and bouncing.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
Assumption: You mean the front strut assemblies; rear uses shocks.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Coil springs store huge energy—use a coil spring compressor correctly or buy complete quick-struts to avoid compressing springs.
- ⚠️ Support the car on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of pinch points at the steering knuckle and strut mount.
- ⚠️ If you disconnect any brake/ABS wire clips, route them exactly as original to prevent rubbing.
- ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after front strut replacement.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (1/2")
- Torque wrench (3/8")
- Socket set (8mm-24mm)
- Wrench set (8mm-24mm)
- Hex key set (metric)
- Pry bar (24")
- Hammer (2 lb)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Trim clip tool
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Coil spring compressor (specialty)
- Strut spreader tool (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front strut assemblies (complete quick-struts recommended) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
- Front strut-to-steering knuckle bolts and nuts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 4
- Front sway bar end links - Optional if worn/noisy - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorbers - If you meant “rear struts,” these are shocks; replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear upper/lower shock hardware - As needed - Qty: 1 set
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Crack the front lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a lug wrench before lifting.
- Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway-bar end link nut using penetrating oil.
- Mark the strut-to-knuckle area with a paint marker to help keep alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheel
- Use a floor jack to lift the front jack point, then support with jack stands.
- Remove the wheel using a lug wrench or socket set.
Step 2: Unclip hoses and wiring from the strut
- Remove the brake hose/ABS wire retaining clips from the strut using needle-nose pliers and a trim clip tool.
- Keep clips organized for reassembly.
Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut
- Remove the end link nut using the correct socket and wrench.
- If the stud spins, hold it with a hex key (metric) while turning the nut with a wrench.
Step 4: Support the steering knuckle
- Place a floor jack lightly under the lower control arm/knuckle area to keep it from dropping when bolts are removed.
Step 5: Remove the strut-to-steering knuckle bolts
- Remove the two lower strut bolts/nuts using a breaker bar (1/2") and the correct socket set.
- If the knuckle grips the strut, use a strut spreader tool (specialty) and a pry bar (24") to separate it.
- Do not pull on the CV axle.
Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts
- Open the hood.
- Support the strut from below, then remove the upper mount nuts using a socket set.
- Carefully drop the strut out through the wheel well.
Step 7: If NOT using quick-struts, transfer the spring (advanced)
- Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) onto the spring, opposite sides, with hooks fully seated. Tighten evenly.
- Remove the center/top nut using a socket set while holding the shaft with the appropriate hex key (metric) if needed.
- Move the spring and isolators to the new strut in the same orientation, then slowly release the compressor.
- If anything looks crooked, stop and reset.
Step 8: Install the new strut assembly
- Position the strut in the tower and hand-thread the upper mount nuts using a socket set.
- Slide the strut into the steering knuckle using a pry bar (24") if needed, then install the lower bolts/nuts using a socket set.
- Reconnect the sway bar end link using a wrench set.
- Reinstall all hose/wire clips using needle-nose pliers and a trim clip tool.
Step 9: Tighten hardware (use factory specs)
- Tighten the upper strut mount nuts using a torque wrench (3/8"): Torque to GM factory specification.
- Tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a torque wrench (1/2"): Torque to GM factory specification (often high torque; do not “guess-tight”).
- Tighten the sway bar end link nut using a torque wrench (3/8"): Torque to GM factory specification.
Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and repeat on the other side
- Reinstall the wheel using a socket set.
- Lower the car using a floor jack and remove jack stands.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2"): Torque to GM factory specification.
- Repeat Steps 1–10 on the other front side (replace struts in pairs).
Step 11 (If you meant rear “struts”): Replace the rear shocks
- Lift the rear and support with jack stands, remove rear wheel using a socket set.
- Support the rear suspension arm with a floor jack.
- Remove the lower shock bolt using a breaker bar (1/2") and socket set.
- Remove the upper shock fasteners (access varies; may be in trunk/behind trim) using a trim clip tool and socket set.
- Install the new shock and tighten using a torque wrench (1/2"): Torque to GM factory specification.
✅ After Repair
- Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks and confirm the steering returns smoothly.
- Recheck that brake hose/ABS wiring is clipped and not rubbing the tire.
- Get a professional alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
- After 50–100 miles, recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench (1/2").
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor + alignment)
DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only, plus alignment)
You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















