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2016 Buick LaCrosse
2016 Buick LaCrosse
Base - V6 3.6L
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How To Replace Front Struts 2010-16 Buick LaCrosse

How To Replace Front Struts 2010-16 Buick LaCrosse

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Buick LaCrosse (Complete Quick-Strut Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, torque spec notes, and alignment reminders

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Buick LaCrosse (Complete Quick-Strut Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, torque spec notes, and alignment reminders

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

🔧 LaCrosse - Strut Replacement

On your LaCrosse, the front suspension uses complete strut assemblies (strut + coil spring + top mount). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and helps stop clunks and bouncing.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: You mean the front strut assemblies; rear uses shocks.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Coil springs store huge energy—use a coil spring compressor correctly or buy complete quick-struts to avoid compressing springs.
  • ⚠️ Support the car on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of pinch points at the steering knuckle and strut mount.
  • ⚠️ If you disconnect any brake/ABS wire clips, route them exactly as original to prevent rubbing.
  • ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after front strut replacement.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (3/8")
  • Socket set (8mm-24mm)
  • Wrench set (8mm-24mm)
  • Hex key set (metric)
  • Pry bar (24")
  • Hammer (2 lb)
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Trim clip tool
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Coil spring compressor (specialty)
  • Strut spreader tool (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies (complete quick-struts recommended) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
  • Front strut-to-steering knuckle bolts and nuts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 4
  • Front sway bar end links - Optional if worn/noisy - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock absorbers - If you meant “rear struts,” these are shocks; replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear upper/lower shock hardware - As needed - Qty: 1 set

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Crack the front lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a lug wrench before lifting.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway-bar end link nut using penetrating oil.
  • Mark the strut-to-knuckle area with a paint marker to help keep alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheel

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front jack point, then support with jack stands.
  • Remove the wheel using a lug wrench or socket set.

Step 2: Unclip hoses and wiring from the strut

  • Remove the brake hose/ABS wire retaining clips from the strut using needle-nose pliers and a trim clip tool.
  • Keep clips organized for reassembly.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

  • Remove the end link nut using the correct socket and wrench.
  • If the stud spins, hold it with a hex key (metric) while turning the nut with a wrench.

Step 4: Support the steering knuckle

  • Place a floor jack lightly under the lower control arm/knuckle area to keep it from dropping when bolts are removed.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-steering knuckle bolts

  • Remove the two lower strut bolts/nuts using a breaker bar (1/2") and the correct socket set.
  • If the knuckle grips the strut, use a strut spreader tool (specialty) and a pry bar (24") to separate it.
  • Do not pull on the CV axle.

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

  • Open the hood.
  • Support the strut from below, then remove the upper mount nuts using a socket set.
  • Carefully drop the strut out through the wheel well.

Step 7: If NOT using quick-struts, transfer the spring (advanced)

  • Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) onto the spring, opposite sides, with hooks fully seated. Tighten evenly.
  • Remove the center/top nut using a socket set while holding the shaft with the appropriate hex key (metric) if needed.
  • Move the spring and isolators to the new strut in the same orientation, then slowly release the compressor.
  • If anything looks crooked, stop and reset.

Step 8: Install the new strut assembly

  • Position the strut in the tower and hand-thread the upper mount nuts using a socket set.
  • Slide the strut into the steering knuckle using a pry bar (24") if needed, then install the lower bolts/nuts using a socket set.
  • Reconnect the sway bar end link using a wrench set.
  • Reinstall all hose/wire clips using needle-nose pliers and a trim clip tool.

Step 9: Tighten hardware (use factory specs)

  • Tighten the upper strut mount nuts using a torque wrench (3/8"): Torque to GM factory specification.
  • Tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a torque wrench (1/2"): Torque to GM factory specification (often high torque; do not “guess-tight”).
  • Tighten the sway bar end link nut using a torque wrench (3/8"): Torque to GM factory specification.

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and repeat on the other side

  • Reinstall the wheel using a socket set.
  • Lower the car using a floor jack and remove jack stands.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2"): Torque to GM factory specification.
  • Repeat Steps 1–10 on the other front side (replace struts in pairs).

Step 11 (If you meant rear “struts”): Replace the rear shocks

  • Lift the rear and support with jack stands, remove rear wheel using a socket set.
  • Support the rear suspension arm with a floor jack.
  • Remove the lower shock bolt using a breaker bar (1/2") and socket set.
  • Remove the upper shock fasteners (access varies; may be in trunk/behind trim) using a trim clip tool and socket set.
  • Install the new shock and tighten using a torque wrench (1/2"): Torque to GM factory specification.

✅ After Repair

  • Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks and confirm the steering returns smoothly.
  • Recheck that brake hose/ABS wiring is clipped and not rubbing the tire.
  • Get a professional alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
  • After 50–100 miles, recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench (1/2").

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only, plus alignment)

You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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