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2016 Buick Encore
2016 Buick Encore
Premium - Inline 4 1.4L
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How to Replace Front Strut & Spring Assemblies 2013-2022 Buick Encore

How to Replace Front Strut & Spring Assemblies 2013-2022 Buick Encore

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Buick Encore (MacPherson Strut Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs plus alignment notes

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Buick Encore (MacPherson Strut Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs plus alignment notes

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đź”§ Encore - Front Strut Replacement

On your Encore, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (a shock + spring in one assembly). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces clunks or bouncing.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: You’re replacing the front struts; rear uses shocks + separate springs.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ The coil spring is under high tension; a slip can cause serious injury.
  • ⚠️ If you are not using a pre-assembled “quick strut,” you must use a proper spring compressor (never use straps).
  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose/ABS wire; support it.
  • ⚠️ An alignment is required after strut replacement to prevent tire wear and pulling.
  • Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (30–200 ft-lbs range)
  • Socket set (8mm–21mm)
  • Wrench set (8mm–21mm)
  • Torx bit set
  • Pry bar
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil
  • Spring compressor (specialty)
  • Strut spreader tool (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount/bearing set - If not included with struts - Qty: 2
  • Front bump stops and dust boots - If not included - Qty: 2
  • Front sway bar end links - Optional if worn/clunking - Qty: 2
  • Strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Recommended if specified as one-time-use - Qty: 4

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a breaker bar before lifting.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nuts.
  • If you’re not using “quick struts”: a spring compressor is a tool that safely compresses the coil spring so the top nut can be removed.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front of the vehicle at the front jacking point.
  • Place jack stands under the proper support points and lower the vehicle onto them.
  • Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Disconnect brackets and the sway bar end link

  • Locate the brake hose/ABS wire brackets attached to the strut body.
  • Remove bracket bolts using a 10mm socket (sizes may vary slightly by build).
  • Remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut using an 18mm socket and a Torx bit to hold the stud if it spins.
  • Tip: Hold the link stud steady to avoid rounding.

Step 3: Mark alignment position (helps get to the alignment shop)

  • Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle relationship (outline the bolt head/washer area).
  • This does not replace a professional alignment, but helps keep it close.

Step 4: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack lightly so it doesn’t drop.
  • Remove the 2 large bolts/nuts connecting the strut to the knuckle using a breaker bar with 18mm–21mm sockets.
  • If the knuckle clamps tightly to the strut, use a strut spreader tool (specialty) to slightly open the clamp. (This tool gently spreads the knuckle clamp so the strut can slide out.)
  • Carefully separate the knuckle from the strut. Use a pry bar only as needed.

Step 5: Remove the strut from the strut tower

  • Open the hood.
  • Locate the strut mount nuts at the top of the strut tower.
  • While holding the strut from below, remove the mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
  • Lower and remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 6: Swap springs (skip if using “quick struts”)

  • Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring.
  • Evenly compress the spring using a ratchet until it no longer pushes on the top mount.
  • Remove the center top nut using the correct socket and a Torx bit (or pass-through strut socket set if required).
  • Move the spring, isolators, dust boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut in the same order.
  • Install the top nut, then slowly release the spring compressors evenly.
  • Tip: Match spring end to the pocket stop.

Step 7: Install the new strut assembly

  • Position the strut into the strut tower and hand-start the top mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
  • Guide the knuckle onto the strut and install the lower bolts/nuts by hand first.
  • Tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a torque wrench to Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs).
  • Tighten the top mount nuts using a torque wrench to Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
  • Tip: Tighten evenly so the mount seats flat.

Step 8: Reconnect the sway bar end link and brackets

  • Install the sway bar end link nut using an 18mm socket and hold the stud with the correct Torx bit if needed.
  • Tighten the end link nut to Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket and snug them securely.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

  • Reinstall wheels and hand-start lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
  • Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench to Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

Note on torque specs: If your replacement hardware or service info specifies different values (or torque-to-yield bolts), follow that guidance.


âś… After Repair

  • Road-test at low speed first. Listen for clunks and verify steering feels normal.
  • Recheck that the brake hose and ABS wire are not stretched or rubbing.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
  • After 50–100 miles, recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only; more if buying specialty tools)

You Save: $600-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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