How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Buick Encore (MacPherson Strut Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs plus alignment notes
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2016 Buick Encore (MacPherson Strut Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs plus alignment notes


đź”§ Encore - Front Strut Replacement
On your Encore, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (a shock + spring in one assembly). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces clunks or bouncing.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
Assumption: You’re replacing the front struts; rear uses shocks + separate springs.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ The coil spring is under high tension; a slip can cause serious injury.
- ⚠️ If you are not using a pre-assembled “quick strut,” you must use a proper spring compressor (never use straps).
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose/ABS wire; support it.
- ⚠️ An alignment is required after strut replacement to prevent tire wear and pulling.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (30–200 ft-lbs range)
- Socket set (8mm–21mm)
- Wrench set (8mm–21mm)
- Torx bit set
- Pry bar
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Spring compressor (specialty)
- Strut spreader tool (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount/bearing set - If not included with struts - Qty: 2
- Front bump stops and dust boots - If not included - Qty: 2
- Front sway bar end links - Optional if worn/clunking - Qty: 2
- Strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Recommended if specified as one-time-use - Qty: 4
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a breaker bar before lifting.
- Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nuts.
- If you’re not using “quick struts”: a spring compressor is a tool that safely compresses the coil spring so the top nut can be removed.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels
- Use a floor jack to lift the front of the vehicle at the front jacking point.
- Place jack stands under the proper support points and lower the vehicle onto them.
- Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove both front wheels.
Step 2: Disconnect brackets and the sway bar end link
- Locate the brake hose/ABS wire brackets attached to the strut body.
- Remove bracket bolts using a 10mm socket (sizes may vary slightly by build).
- Remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut using an 18mm socket and a Torx bit to hold the stud if it spins.
- Tip: Hold the link stud steady to avoid rounding.
Step 3: Mark alignment position (helps get to the alignment shop)
- Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle relationship (outline the bolt head/washer area).
- This does not replace a professional alignment, but helps keep it close.
Step 4: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts
- Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack lightly so it doesn’t drop.
- Remove the 2 large bolts/nuts connecting the strut to the knuckle using a breaker bar with 18mm–21mm sockets.
- If the knuckle clamps tightly to the strut, use a strut spreader tool (specialty) to slightly open the clamp. (This tool gently spreads the knuckle clamp so the strut can slide out.)
- Carefully separate the knuckle from the strut. Use a pry bar only as needed.
Step 5: Remove the strut from the strut tower
- Open the hood.
- Locate the strut mount nuts at the top of the strut tower.
- While holding the strut from below, remove the mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
- Lower and remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
Step 6: Swap springs (skip if using “quick struts”)
- Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring.
- Evenly compress the spring using a ratchet until it no longer pushes on the top mount.
- Remove the center top nut using the correct socket and a Torx bit (or pass-through strut socket set if required).
- Move the spring, isolators, dust boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut in the same order.
- Install the top nut, then slowly release the spring compressors evenly.
- Tip: Match spring end to the pocket stop.
Step 7: Install the new strut assembly
- Position the strut into the strut tower and hand-start the top mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
- Guide the knuckle onto the strut and install the lower bolts/nuts by hand first.
- Tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a torque wrench to Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs).
- Tighten the top mount nuts using a torque wrench to Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
- Tip: Tighten evenly so the mount seats flat.
Step 8: Reconnect the sway bar end link and brackets
- Install the sway bar end link nut using an 18mm socket and hold the stud with the correct Torx bit if needed.
- Tighten the end link nut to Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket and snug them securely.
Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall wheels and hand-start lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
- Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench to Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
Note on torque specs: If your replacement hardware or service info specifies different values (or torque-to-yield bolts), follow that guidance.
âś… After Repair
- Road-test at low speed first. Listen for clunks and verify steering feels normal.
- Recheck that the brake hose and ABS wire are not stretched or rubbing.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
- After 50–100 miles, recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor + alignment)
DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only; more if buying specialty tools)
You Save: $600-$700 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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