🔧 Tucson - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This repair replaces the front strut assemblies on your Tucson. The front struts help support the vehicle, absorb bumps, and keep the tires firmly on the road.

The safest beginner-friendly approach is to install complete loaded strut assemblies. A loaded strut already has the spring and mount assembled, so you do not need to compress the coil spring.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs so the ride height, steering, and braking stay even.
• ⚠️ Never work under your Tucson supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Do not remove the large center nut on the strut. That nut can release spring pressure.
• ⚠️ Avoid using loose replacement struts unless you have a professional wall-mounted spring compressor.
• ⚠️ Support the steering knuckle so the brake hose and ABS wheel-speed sensor wire are not stretched.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after strut replacement.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• Trim clip remover
• Paint marker
• Rubber mallet
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Penetrating oil
• Bungee cord
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front loaded strut assembly - Driver side - Qty: 1
• Front loaded strut assembly - Passenger side - Qty: 1
• Front stabilizer bar link nuts - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
• Front upper strut mount nuts - Qty: 6

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tucson on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Wheel chocks are blocks that stop the vehicle from rolling.
• Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and stabilizer link nut. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
• Take photos of the brake hose bracket, ABS wire routing, and lower strut position before taking anything apart.
• The steering knuckle is the large metal part that the wheel hub and strut attach to.
• The ABS wire is the small sensor wire used by the anti-lock brake and stability control systems.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each front lug nut about one turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen while tires touch ground.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of your Tucson.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) lightly touching as a backup.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels.
• Slide the wheels flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark the Strut Position

• Use a paint marker to mark around the lower strut bracket where it meets the steering knuckle.
• This helps get the new strut close enough for a careful drive to the alignment shop.

Step 5: Remove the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 12mm socket or 14mm socket with a ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
• Use a 10mm socket with a ratchet 3/8-inch drive if the ABS wire bracket uses a small bolt.
• Use a trim clip remover to release any plastic ABS wire clips from the strut bracket.
• Move the hose and wire aside gently without pulling or twisting them.

Step 6: Disconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link

• Use a 17mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the stabilizer bar link nut from the strut bracket.
• If the stud spins, hold the stud with the correct built-in flats using a 17mm wrench, then turn the nut with the 17mm socket.
• The stabilizer bar link connects the suspension to the sway bar, which reduces body lean during turns.

Step 7: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Use a bungee cord to support the steering knuckle so it cannot fall outward.
• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the lower control arm with very light pressure if more support is needed.
• Do not lift the vehicle with the jack here. Just support the suspension part.

Step 8: Remove the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Use a 19mm wrench on the bolt head and a 19mm socket with a breaker bar 1/2-inch drive on the nut.
• Remove both lower strut-to-knuckle nuts.
• Push the bolts out by hand if loose.
• If stuck, use a rubber mallet to tap the bolts out carefully.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only if needed to gently separate the strut bracket from the steering knuckle.

Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Open the hood and locate the three upper strut mount nuts on the strut tower.
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the three upper mount nuts.
• Hold the strut assembly with one hand while removing the last nut.
• Do not remove the large center nut.

Step 10: Remove the Old Strut Assembly

• Guide the old strut assembly down and out through the wheel well by hand.
• Use mechanic gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges.
• Compare the old strut and new loaded strut before installing.

Step 11: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly

• Guide the new loaded strut up into the strut tower by hand.
• Install the new upper strut mount nuts finger-tight first.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the upper strut mount nuts to Torque to 45-55 Nm (33-41 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Attach the Strut to the Steering Knuckle

• Line up the lower strut bracket with the steering knuckle using the paint marks as a guide.
• Install the new lower strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts by hand.
• Use a 19mm wrench, 19mm socket, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lower fasteners to Torque to 140-160 Nm (103-118 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link

• Insert the stabilizer bar link stud into the strut bracket.
• Install the new nut by hand.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the stabilizer bar link nut to Torque to 65-75 Nm (48-55 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reattach the Brake Hose and ABS Wire

• Use a 12mm socket or 14mm socket with a torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to reinstall the brake hose bracket bolt.
• Tighten the brake hose bracket bolt to Torque to 20-25 Nm (15-18 ft-lbs).
• Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive if the ABS wire bracket uses a bolt, and tighten it snugly.
• Use a trim clip remover by hand to guide any plastic clips back into place.
• Check that the hose and wire are not twisted and will not rub the tire.

Step 15: Repeat the Repair on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4-14 on the opposite front strut.
• Use the same tools and torque specifications.
• Finish one side before starting next.

Step 16: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Install each wheel by hand.
• Start all lug nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Lower your Tucson to the ground slowly.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 107-127 Nm (79-94 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Bounce each front corner by hand. The body should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
• ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked. Listen for clunks or rubbing.
• ✅ Test drive slowly first. Stop immediately if you hear knocking, popping, grinding, or feel pulling.
• ✅ Schedule a four-wheel alignment right away.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
• ✅ If an ABS or stability control light appears, inspect the ABS wire routing before driving farther.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,400 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $350-$750 (parts only, alignment not included)

You Save: $400-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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