🔧 Tacoma - Front Strut Replacement

Assumption: This procedure covers the front struts. The rear suspension on your Tacoma uses shocks, not struts.

The front strut assembly supports the vehicle, controls bounce, and keeps the tire aligned with the road. Replacing worn struts restores ride control, reduces nose dive, and helps tire wear stay even.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Use jack stands on solid ground. Never work under a truck supported only by a jack.
• The front coil spring is under high tension. If you are disassembling the strut, use a spring compressor. A spring compressor is a special tool that safely holds the coil spring while the strut is apart.
• Keep hands clear of the spring and upper mount while removing the last fasteners.
• If your Tacoma has an ABS wire or brake hose clip on the strut, do not pull on it.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 21mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Ratchet
• Penetrating oil
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Trim clip tool

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assembly - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
• Front stabilizer link nuts - Qty: 2
• Front strut lower bolts and nuts - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground.
• Set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts before lifting the truck.
• If you are replacing only one side, it is still best to replace both front struts in pairs.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the front wheel

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts about one turn.
• Do this before raising the truck.

Step 2: Raise and support the truck

• Use a floor jack under the front lift point and raise the truck.
• Place jack stands under the frame and lower the truck onto them.
• Remove the front wheel with the 21mm socket.

Step 3: Disconnect the stabilizer link from the strut

• Use a 17mm socket to remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut.
• Hold the stud with a wrench if it spins.
• Spray penetrating oil first if rusty.

Step 4: Remove brake hose and ABS wire brackets

• Use a 14mm socket or trim clip tool to release any hose or wire brackets attached to the strut.
• Move them aside so they do not stretch when the strut comes out.

Step 5: Support the knuckle

• Place the floor jack under the lower control arm or knuckle to hold it steady.
• This keeps the hub from dropping when the strut bolts are removed.

Step 6: Remove the lower strut bolts

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two lower strut bolts and nuts.
• Tap the bolts out if needed.
• Torque on reassembly: 225 Nm (166 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Remove the top strut nuts

• Open the hood.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the three upper strut mount nuts.
• Hold the strut from below as you remove the last nut.
• Torque on reassembly: 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Remove the strut assembly

• Lower the floor jack slightly and guide the strut assembly out of the wheel well.
• If the assembly is tight, turn the steering knuckle by hand for more clearance.

Step 9: Transfer parts if needed

• If your new strut is not pre-assembled, use a spring compressor (specialty) to compress the coil spring.
• Transfer the top mount, spring, and hardware to the new strut.
• Make sure the spring end seats correctly in the perch.
• Mark the spring position before removal.

Step 10: Install the new strut

• Slide the new strut into place from the wheel well.
• Start the three upper mount nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
• Then line up the lower holes and install the two lower bolts and nuts with a 19mm socket.

Step 11: Reattach brackets and sway bar link

• Reinstall the brake hose and ABS wire brackets using a 14mm socket or trim clip tool.
• Reconnect the stabilizer link to the strut using a 17mm socket.
• Torque the stabilizer link nut to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Torque all fasteners and reinstall the wheel

• Torque the upper strut nuts to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Torque the lower strut bolts to 225 Nm (166 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts with a 21mm socket.
• Torque the lug nuts to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Lower the truck and remove the jack stands.
• Pump the brakes before driving.
• Test drive slowly at first and listen for clunks or rubbing.
• Get a front-end alignment after replacing struts.
• Recheck all fasteners after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $480-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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