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2015 Toyota Highlander
2015 Toyota Highlander
Limited - V6 3.5L
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How to Replace Front Spring and Strut Assembly 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander

How to Replace Front Spring and Strut Assembly 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2015 Toyota Highlander (MacPherson Struts)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs plus alignment notes

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2015 Toyota Highlander (MacPherson Struts)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs plus alignment notes

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Orion Logo White

šŸ”§ Highlander - Front Strut Replacement

On your Highlander, the front suspension uses MacPherson strut assemblies (shock + spring + top mount). Replacing worn struts improves ride control, braking stability, and tire wear, but you’ll need to be careful around the coil spring and finish with an alignment.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both fronts)


āš ļø Safety & Precautions

  • āš ļø Support the vehicle with jack stands on the proper lift points; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • āš ļø If you reuse the coil spring, use a coil spring compressor (a tool that compresses the spring so it can’t release violently).
  • āš ļø Keep hands/face out of the ā€œline of fireā€ of the spring and top mount.
  • āš ļø After strut replacement, get a 4-wheel alignment—front camber/toe can change.
  • Disconnecting the battery is not required for this job.

šŸ”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 3/8" (10-80 ft-lbs)
  • Torque wrench 1/2" (50-200 ft-lbs)
  • Socket set 3/8" drive (10mm-19mm)
  • Socket set 1/2" drive (17mm-22mm)
  • Wrench set (14mm-22mm)
  • 6mm hex key socket
  • Pry bar 18"
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil
  • Coil spring compressor (specialty)

šŸ”© Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assembly (quick-strut) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • OR Front strut (damper insert) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount/bearing kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front bump stop and dust boot kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • New strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 4

šŸ“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Loosen the front lug nuts with a 21mm socket before lifting.
  • Spray the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar link nut with penetrating oil.
  • If you’re not using a quick-strut, confirm you have a coil spring compressor ready before disassembly.

šŸ”Ø Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front and set the vehicle on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Unclip brackets from the strut

  • Remove the brake hose bracket bolt using a 12mm socket. Torque to 29 Nm (21 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
  • Remove the ABS wire bracket bolt using a 10mm socket. Torque to 19 Nm (14 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
  • Tip: Don’t stretch the ABS wire.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

  • Hold the stud with a 6mm hex key socket and remove the nut with a 17mm wrench.
  • Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 4: Mark camber position and remove strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and knuckle (helps keep alignment closer until you get it professionally aligned).
  • Support the knuckle/hub so it doesn’t pull on the axle or brake hose.
  • Remove the two lower strut bolts/nuts using 19mm socket and a breaker bar 1/2".
  • Tap bolts out if needed using a pry bar 18" for alignment.
  • Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 5: Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle

  • Open the hood. Remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
  • Lift the strut assembly out of the wheel well.

Step 6A: If installing ā€œquick-strutsā€ (recommended)

  • Skip spring transfer. Position the new strut assembly into the strut tower and hand-thread the three top nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Line up the knuckle and install the two lower bolts/nuts using 19mm socket and a breaker bar 1/2".

Step 6B: If reusing the coil spring (spring transfer)

  • Install the coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose at the top mount.
  • Remove the strut shaft nut using a 17mm socket while holding the shaft with a 6mm hex key socket.
  • Move the spring, dust boot/bump stop, and mount/bearing onto the new strut in the same orientation.
  • Install the shaft nut and tighten with a torque wrench 3/8". Torque to 71 Nm (52 ft-lbs).
  • Slowly release the spring compressor and confirm the spring ends sit correctly in their seats.

Step 7: Reconnect brackets and sway bar link

  • Reattach the sway bar end link using a 17mm wrench and hold the stud with a 6mm hex key socket. Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall the brake hose bracket bolt using a 12mm socket. Torque to 29 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall the ABS wire bracket bolt using a 10mm socket. Torque to 19 Nm (14 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

  • Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench 1/2". Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

āœ… After Repair

  • Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and confirm nothing rubs or pulls on wires/hoses.
  • Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks over bumps.
  • Schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
  • Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench 1/2".

šŸ’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,700 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$1,050 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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