🔧 Highlander - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This repair replaces the front strut assemblies on your Highlander. The strut is the spring-and-shock unit that supports the front suspension and helps control bouncing, braking stability, and tire contact.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Use complete loaded strut assemblies if you are a beginner. A loaded strut includes the spring already installed, so you do not need to compress the coil spring.
• ⚠️ Do not remove the center nut from an old strut unless the spring is safely compressed with a proper spring compressor. The spring is under dangerous pressure.
• ⚠️ Support your Highlander with jack stands only. Never work under a vehicle held up by a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs to keep braking and handling balanced.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after strut replacement.
• ⚠️ Keep the brake hose and ABS wheel speed sensor wire supported. Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the hose or wire.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive 200 ft-lb minimum
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Socket extension 3-inch 3/8-inch drive
• Socket extension 6-inch 1/2-inch drive
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 22mm wrench
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Rubber mallet
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Penetrating oil
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front loaded strut assembly - Left: 1, Right: 1
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
• Front stabilizer link nuts - Qty: 2
• Brake hose bracket bolts - Qty: 2
• ABS wire bracket bolts - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Highlander on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔩 Slightly loosen the front lug nuts with a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive before lifting the vehicle.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the position of the lower strut bolts before removal. This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
• 💧 Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle nuts, stabilizer link nut, brake hose bracket bolt, and ABS wire bracket bolt.
• 📌 A loaded strut assembly is the safest DIY choice because the coil spring is already installed on the new strut.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Secure the Front

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Highlander at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Lightly shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable.

Step 2: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the front lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and set them flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
• Keep lug nuts together.

Step 3: Mark the Strut-to-Knuckle Position

• Use the paint marker to draw lines across the lower strut bracket and steering knuckle.
• The steering knuckle is the heavy metal part that holds the wheel hub and connects to the suspension.
• This mark helps you install the new strut close to the old position before the required alignment.

Step 4: Remove the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 12mm socket, ratchet 3/8-inch drive, and socket extension 3-inch 3/8-inch drive to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the ABS wire bracket bolt from the strut.
• Move the hose and wire aside gently.
• Do not pull, twist, or stretch the brake hose or ABS wire.

Step 5: Disconnect the Stabilizer Link from the Strut

• The stabilizer link is a small rod that connects the sway bar to the strut to reduce body roll in turns.
• Use a 17mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the stabilizer link nut from the strut bracket.
• If the ball stud spins, hold it with a 17mm wrench while loosening the nut with the 17mm socket.
• Move the link away from the strut.

Step 6: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Place the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum lightly under the lower control arm or steering knuckle area.
• Raise it just enough to support the suspension weight.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.

Step 7: Remove the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Use a 22mm wrench to hold the bolt head.
• Use a 22mm socket, breaker bar 1/2-inch drive, and socket extension 6-inch 1/2-inch drive to loosen the lower strut nuts.
• Remove the nuts and push the bolts out by hand.
• If a bolt is stuck, tap it gently with the rubber mallet.
• Use the pry bar 18-inch only if needed to separate the strut bracket from the knuckle.
• Keep the steering knuckle supported so it does not pull on the brake hose.

Step 8: Access the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Open the hood.
• Use the trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver to remove any plastic cowl clips or covers blocking the upper strut mount nuts.
• Use needle-nose pliers if a clip center pin is hard to lift.
• Do not remove the center strut shaft nut.

Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Support the strut from below with one hand.
• Use a 14mm socket, ratchet 3/8-inch drive, and socket extension 3-inch 3/8-inch drive to remove the upper strut mount nuts.
• Remove the strut assembly through the wheel well.
• Do not drop the strut.

Step 10: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly

• Guide the new loaded strut assembly up into the strut tower through the wheel well.
• Install the upper mount nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive 200 ft-lb minimum to tighten the upper strut mount nuts to Torque to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Attach the Strut to the Steering Knuckle

• Align the lower strut bracket with the steering knuckle.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise or lower the knuckle slightly until the bolt holes line up.
• Install the strut-to-knuckle bolts from the same direction they were removed.
• Install new nuts by hand.
• Use the 22mm wrench to hold the bolt heads.
• Use the 22mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive 200 ft-lb minimum to tighten the nuts to Torque to 240 Nm (177 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reconnect the Stabilizer Link

• Insert the stabilizer link stud into the strut bracket.
• Install a new stabilizer link nut by hand.
• Use the 17mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive 200 ft-lb minimum to tighten the nut to Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
• If the stud spins, hold it with the 17mm wrench while tightening.

Step 13: Reinstall the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Position the brake hose bracket on the strut.
• Use the 12mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive 200 ft-lb minimum to tighten the brake hose bracket bolt to Torque to 19 Nm (14 ft-lbs).
• Position the ABS wire bracket on the strut.
• Use the 10mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive 200 ft-lb minimum to tighten the ABS wire bracket bolt to Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
• Check that the brake hose and ABS wire are not twisted.

Step 14: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 3 through 13 on the opposite front strut.
• Use the same sockets, wrenches, and torque specs.
• Compare both sides before tightening.

Step 15: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Place each front wheel back onto the hub.
• Install the lug nuts by hand.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 16: Lower and Torque the Wheels

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the front slightly and remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Highlander until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive 200 ft-lb minimum to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Bounce each front corner by hand. The vehicle should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
• ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked. Listen for rubbing, clicking, or spring popping.
• ✅ Test drive slowly first. Check for clunks, pulling, vibration, or brake warning lights.
• ✅ Recheck all visible brackets, hoses, and wires after the test drive.
• ✅ Have a professional 4-wheel alignment performed as soon as possible.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive 200 ft-lb minimum.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $500-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours.

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