🔧 Sentra - Front Strut Replacement

On your Sentra, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (a strut is a shock + structural support). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces clunking/bouncing.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both fronts)

Assumption: “Struts” = front; the rear uses shocks (not struts).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground; chock rear wheels before lifting the front.
• Always support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• If you are transferring springs, a spring compressor stores dangerous energy—use it correctly and keep hands/face out of the spring’s path.
• Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose or ABS wire.
• An alignment is required after strut replacement to prevent tire wear and pulling.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" (30-200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench 3/8" (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Socket set metric 8mm-22mm
• Wrench set metric 10mm-22mm
• Allen key set metric (for sway link stud)
• Pry bar 18"
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Impact wrench 1/2" (optional)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies (quick-struts recommended, complete with spring and mount) - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounts (if not included with strut) - Qty: 2
• Front strut dust boot and bump stop kit (if not included) - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end links (recommended if boots torn or joints loose) - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts (recommended) - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in Park (or in gear if manual), and set the parking brake.
• Chock both rear wheels.
• Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
• Plan for an alignment right after the job.
• Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nut 10–15 minutes before disassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the front

• Use a floor jack to lift at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the left and right front pinch welds (or proper front support points) and lower the car onto them.
• Remove both front wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Unbolt brackets from the strut

• On the strut body, remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets using a 10mm socket (sizes can vary slightly by hardware).
• Use a trim clip tool or needle-nose pliers to release any plastic clips so the lines have slack.
• Tip: Keep lines relaxed, never stretched.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link (if it attaches to the strut)

• Remove the end link nut using a 17mm wrench (typical) while holding the stud with an Allen key if it spins.
• Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

• Use a paint marker to mark the outline where the strut meets the steering knuckle.
• This helps you get close to the original alignment, but you still need a professional alignment.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the steering knuckle from underneath with a floor jack (light pressure only).
• Remove the two large bolts/nuts that clamp the strut to the knuckle using 19mm–22mm sockets, a breaker bar, and a ratchet.
• If needed, use a pry bar 18" to gently separate the knuckle from the strut.
• Torque to 105 Nm (77 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood and locate the three upper strut mount nuts on that side.
• Hold the strut with one hand from below (or keep the knuckle supported), then remove the mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) during reassembly.
• Lower the strut out of the wheel well.

Step 7: If using quick-struts, skip to Step 9

• If you did NOT buy complete strut assemblies, you must transfer the coil spring and mount.
• A spring compressor (specialty) is a clamp tool that compresses the coil spring so it can be safely removed.

Step 8: Transfer spring and mount (only if reusing the spring)

• Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the seat.
• Remove the strut shaft center nut using a socket and Allen key (or impact wrench 1/2" carefully).
• Move the mount, bearing, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut in the same order.
• Install the new center nut and Torque to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
• Slowly release the spring compressor, making sure the spring ends seat correctly in the upper and lower perches.

Step 9: Install the strut back into the car

• Guide the strut into the strut tower and start the three upper mount nuts by hand using a 14mm socket (do not fully tighten yet).
• Slide the strut into the steering knuckle and install the two lower bolts/nuts using the correct 19mm–22mm sockets.
• Align to your paint marks as closely as possible.
• Tighten the lower bolts and Torque to 105 Nm (77 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the upper mount nuts and Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reconnect sway bar end link and brackets

• Reconnect the end link to the strut using a 17mm wrench and hold the stud with an Allen key if needed.
• Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket and snug them securely.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Install the wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Final-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern and Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and confirm nothing rubs or stretches.
• Test drive slowly, then re-check for clunks over small bumps.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• Re-check lug nut torque after 25–50 miles and Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $800-$1,400 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $300-$800 (parts only, plus alignment)

You Save: $500-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.