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2015 Honda Civic
2014 - 2015 Honda Civic
EX Sedan
Compatible with more variants.
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  • Guides
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  • Honda Civic
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  • 2014, 2015
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  • How to Replace Front Struts on a 2014-2015 Honda Civic (MacPherson Suspension) (Trim: EX-L | Body: Sedan)
How to Replace Front Struts 2012-2015 Honda Civic

How to Replace Front Struts 2012-2015 Honda Civic

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
1/2
1/2
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2014-2015 Honda Civic (MacPherson Suspension) (Trim: EX-L | Body: Sedan)

Step-by-step front strut replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2014-2015 Honda Civic (MacPherson Suspension) (Trim: EX-L | Body: Sedan)

Step-by-step front strut replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2014, 2015

Orion
Orion

🔧 Civic - Front Strut Replacement

On your Civic, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (a shock + spring as one unit). Replacing worn struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and tire wear control.

Assumption: You’re replacing the front struts; the rear of your Civic uses separate shocks and springs (not a “rear strut”).

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both fronts)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Never remove the strut top center nut unless the spring is safely compressed with a spring compressor.
  • ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands/face out of the spring’s path; a coil spring stores dangerous energy.
  • ⚠️ Don’t let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose/ABS wire; support it.
  • ⚠️ If you use a spring compressor, inspect it for damage before use.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Lug wrench (19mm)
  • Socket set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm)
  • Wrench set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm)
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (1/2", 20–200 ft-lbs range)
  • Torque wrench (3/8", 10–80 ft-lbs range)
  • Flat trim tool
  • Pry bar (18")
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil
  • Dead-blow hammer
  • Spring compressor (specialty)
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut (damper) - Left - Qty: 1
  • Front strut (damper) - Right - Qty: 1
  • Front strut mount (top mount/bearing) - Qty: 2
  • Front bump stop and dust boot kit - Qty: 2
  • Front coil spring - Qty: 2 (replace if sagged/rusted/noisy)
  • Front stabilizer (sway bar) end link - Qty: 2 (recommended if boots are torn or joints are loose)
  • Replacement self-locking nuts/bolts (strut-to-knuckle hardware) - Qty: 1 kit (recommended)

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, put the transmission in P, and set the parking brake.
  • Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Crack the front lug nuts loose using a 19mm lug wrench before lifting.
  • Spray strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar link nuts with penetrating oil and let it soak 10 minutes.
  • If you’re using a spring compressor, pre-read its instructions (it clamps the coil spring so it can’t “launch”).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the car at the front center jack point.
  • Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front side pinch welds and lower the car onto them.
  • Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Unclip brake hose and ABS wire from the strut

  • Remove the brake hose bracket bolt using a 10mm socket.
  • Unclip any ABS wire retainers using a flat trim tool and needle-nose pliers.
  • Tip: Don’t pull on the wire itself.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

  • Remove the end link nut using a 14mm wrench and 14mm socket.
  • If the stud spins, hold it steady while loosening (common on older links).

Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

  • Use a paint marker to mark the outline where the strut meets the steering knuckle.
  • This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Support the steering knuckle lightly with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop.
  • Remove the two large bolts/nuts using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket (varies by hardware) and a breaker bar (1/2").
  • Tap bolts out using a dead-blow hammer if needed.
  • Torque on install (common OEM spec): Torque to 170 Nm (125 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Remove the strut top mount nuts

  • Open the hood.
  • Remove the three top mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Hold the strut with one hand as you remove the last nut, then lower it out.
  • Torque on install (common OEM spec): Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Swap the strut (two options)

  • Option A (recommended): Install complete quick-strut assemblies (pre-built strut + spring + mount). No spring compressor needed.
  • Option B: Rebuild your strut assembly using a spring compressor (specialty) (clamps the coil spring so you can safely remove the mount).
  • If rebuilding: compress the spring evenly, then remove the top center nut using a 17mm socket and wrench set as needed.
  • Transfer spring, boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut in the same order and orientation.

Step 8: Install the strut back into the car

  • Guide the strut into the strut tower and start the three top nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
  • Slide the steering knuckle into place and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a breaker bar (1/2") and correct 17mm/19mm sockets.
  • Reattach the sway bar end link using a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench.
  • Reinstall the brake hose bracket and ABS clips using a 10mm socket and flat trim tool.

Step 9: Final tightening with the vehicle supported safely

  • Tighten the top mount nuts using a torque wrench (3/8", 10–80 ft-lbs range).
  • Tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a torque wrench (1/2", 20–200 ft-lbs range).
  • Top mount nuts (common OEM spec): Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
  • Strut-to-knuckle bolts (common OEM spec): Torque to 170 Nm (125 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

  • Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
  • Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2", 20–200 ft-lbs range).
  • Wheel lug nuts (common OEM spec): Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)

✅ After Repair

  • Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and make sure no brake hose/ABS wire is stretched or rubbing.
  • Test drive slowly first; listen for clunks over bumps.
  • Get a professional 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (strut removal can change alignment).
  • Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only, depending on quick-struts vs rebuild)

You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

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Guide for Suspension Strut replace for these Honda vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2015 Honda CivicEX-Sedan
2015 Honda CivicEX-Coupe
2015 Honda CivicEX-L-Sedan
2015 Honda CivicEX-L-Coupe
2014 Honda CivicEX-Sedan
2014 Honda CivicEX-Coupe
2014 Honda CivicEX-L-Sedan
2014 Honda CivicEX-L-Coupe
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