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2016 Volkswagen GTI
2015 - 2017 Volkswagen GTI
Autobahn Inline 4 2.0L
Compatible with more variants.
2015 - 2017 Volkswagen GTI
S Inline 4 2.0L
2015 - 2017 Volkswagen GTI
SE Inline 4 2.0L
2017 Volkswagen GTI
Sport Inline 4 2.0L
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  • Guides
  • /
  • Volkswagen GTI
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  • 2016
  • /
  • How to Replace Front Struts on a 2015-2017 Volkswagen GTI (Trim: S | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
How to Replace Front Strut 2011-2018 Volkswagen Jetta

How to Replace Front Strut 2011-2018 Volkswagen Jetta

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
17mm
17mm
Socket
or (21/32")
18mm
18mm
Socket
or (11/16")
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2015-2017 Volkswagen GTI (Trim: S | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque spec guidance

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2015-2017 Volkswagen GTI (Trim: S | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque spec guidance for 2015, 2016, 2017

Orion
Orion

🔧 Front Strut Assembly - Replacement

Assumption: This covers the front strut assemblies on your GTI. The rear suspension uses shocks, not struts.

The front strut assembly supports the suspension, steering, and ride control. Replacing worn struts restores ride quality, braking stability, and tire wear control. Because the spring is under heavy tension, take your time and use the correct tools.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Front coil springs are under high tension. Use a proper spring compressor only.
  • Support the car with jack stands on solid ground. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
  • Mark brake hose and ABS wire routing before removal so they go back exactly the same way.
  • Do not let the brake caliper hang by the hose.
  • If the car has electronic steering angle-related warnings after repair, a steering angle calibration may be needed.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 17mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 21mm socket
  • 22mm socket
  • Triple square bit set (specialty)
  • Torx T25 screwdriver
  • Torx T30 screwdriver
  • Ratchet
  • Breaker bar
  • Torque wrench
  • Spring compressor (specialty)
  • Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
  • Flat blade trim tool
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assembly - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount bearing - Qty: 2
  • Front strut dust boot - Qty: 2
  • Front bump stop - Qty: 2
  • Front strut upper nut - Qty: 2
  • Front strut pinch bolt and nut - Qty: 2
  • Front sway bar end link hardware - Qty: 2

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Chock the rear wheels.
  • Loosen the front lug bolts before lifting the car.
  • If the vehicle has tire pressure or chassis warnings after the repair, they should clear after a short drive; scan tool verification is recommended.
  • Replace struts in pairs so the car handles evenly.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the car

  • Use the floor jack to raise the front of the car at the approved lift points.
  • Set the car down on jack stands and make sure it is stable before going further.
  • Remove the front wheels with the 17mm socket.

Step 2: Free the brake hose and sensor wiring

  • Use the Torx T25 screwdriver or Torx T30 screwdriver to remove any small brackets holding the brake hose or ABS wire to the strut.
  • Unclip the hose and wire carefully so they do not get stretched.
  • Keep lines relaxed at all times.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link

  • Use the 18mm socket or 21mm socket to remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut, depending on the hardware fitted.
  • If the stud spins, hold it with the correct wrench or bit while removing the nut.

Step 4: Separate the strut from the knuckle

  • Spray the pinch bolt area with penetrating oil.
  • Use the triple square bit set (specialty) to remove the lower strut pinch bolt and nut.
  • Use the ball joint separator tool (specialty) if needed to help open the knuckle slightly.
  • Mark the strut and knuckle position with a paint marker before pulling apart.

Step 5: Remove the strut assembly from the car

  • Support the steering knuckle so the axle and brake line are not strained.
  • Use the 21mm socket or 22mm socket to remove the top strut mount nuts from under the hood.
  • Lower the strut assembly out of the wheel well.

Step 6: Transfer the spring and mount parts

  • Install the old spring onto the new strut using the spring compressor (specialty).
  • Compress the spring evenly on both sides.
  • Remove the top nut with the correct socket while holding the strut shaft as needed.
  • Swap over the mount, bearing, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut if they are not already installed.
  • Do not release the spring until fully seated.

Step 7: Assemble the new strut

  • Install the spring and mount parts in the same order they came off.
  • Use the torque wrench to tighten the new upper strut nut to Torque to factory specification.
  • Release the spring compressor (specialty) slowly and confirm the spring is seated in the lower perch correctly.

Step 8: Install the new strut into the car

  • Guide the strut into the tower and start the upper nuts by hand.
  • Align the bottom of the strut with the knuckle.
  • Use the triple square bit set (specialty) and torque wrench to install the pinch bolt and nut.
  • Torque to factory specification for the lower pinch hardware.

Step 9: Reconnect sway bar and lines

  • Use the 18mm socket or 21mm socket to reinstall the sway bar end link nut.
  • Reattach the brake hose and ABS wire clips with the Torx T25 screwdriver or Torx T30 screwdriver.
  • Torque to factory specification for the end link hardware.

Step 10: Reinstall the wheels and lower the car

  • Install the wheels with the 17mm socket.
  • Lower the car with the floor jack.
  • Use the torque wrench to tighten the lug bolts to Torque to factory specification.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the car and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to check for noise or binding.
  • Test drive slowly at first and listen for clunks or rattles.
  • Check that the brake hose and ABS wire are routed correctly.
  • Get a front-end alignment after strut replacement.
  • If the steering wheel is off-center, have the alignment rechecked.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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