How to Replace Front Struts on a 2015-2016 Nissan Sentra
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2015-2016 Nissan Sentra
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2015, 2016
🔧 Front Strut Assembly - Replacement
This guide covers replacing the front strut assemblies on your Sentra. The strut supports the front suspension and steering, so replacement should be followed by a wheel alignment.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Support the car securely with jack stands before removing any suspension parts.
- The coil spring is under heavy load. Do not remove the top strut nut without a spring compressor on the strut assembly.
- Do not let the brake hose or wheel speed sensor wire hang by themselves.
- Have the front-end alignment checked after the repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- 10mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 21mm socket
- Ratchet
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- Socket extension
- Penetrating oil
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Spring compressor (specialty)
- Bungee cord
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front strut assembly - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount hardware - Qty: 2
- Front stabilizer link nuts - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Loosen the front lug nuts before lifting the car.
- Replace struts in pairs to keep handling even.
- If your replacement strut is a bare unit, transfer the spring only with a spring compressor.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the front end
- Use a floor jack to raise the front of the car.
- Set the car on jack stands and chock the rear wheels.
- Remove both front wheels with a 21mm socket.
Step 2: Free the strut from the knuckle
- Spray the lower strut bolts with penetrating oil.
- Use a 19mm socket and 21mm socket to remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts.
- Support the steering knuckle so it does not pull on the axle or brake hose.
Step 3: Disconnect the attached lines and links
- Use a 10mm socket or 14mm socket to remove the brake hose and ABS wire brackets from the strut.
- Use a 17mm socket to remove the stabilizer link nut from the strut if equipped.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver if a clip needs to be gently released.
Step 4: Remove the top strut nuts
- Open the hood and locate the top strut mount nuts.
- Use a 14mm socket to remove the three upper mount nuts.
- Hold the strut from below as you remove the last nut so it does not drop.
Step 5: Remove the strut assembly
- Pull the strut assembly out through the wheel well.
- If the assembly is tight, lower the knuckle slightly and guide it free by hand.
Step 6: Transfer parts if using a bare strut
- Install the strut in a spring compressor and compress the spring evenly.
- Use a ratchet and the correct socket to remove the top shaft nut.
- Transfer the spring, mount, and isolators to the new strut.
- Make sure the spring ends sit in the proper pockets before releasing the compressor.
Step 7: Install the new strut assembly
- Position the strut in the tower and start the top nuts by hand.
- Use a 14mm socket to snug the top mount nuts.
- Align the lower strut holes with the knuckle and install the bolts.
- Torque the lower strut-to-knuckle fasteners to 156 Nm (115 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect brackets and links
- Reinstall the brake hose and ABS wire brackets using a 10mm socket.
- Reinstall the stabilizer link nut with a 17mm socket if removed.
- Torque the upper strut mount nuts to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reassemble and lower the car
- Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts with a 21mm socket.
- Lower the car with the floor jack.
- Torque the lug nuts to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.
✅ After Repair
- Turn the steering wheel left and right to check for rubbing or hose binding.
- Road test at low speed first.
- Schedule a front-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- Recheck all visible fasteners after the first drive.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $700-$1,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $220-$500 (parts only)
You Save: $480-$700 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















