🔧 Highlander - Front Strut Replacement

On your Highlander, the front suspension uses struts (a strut is a shock absorber that also supports the spring and helps locate the wheel). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces clunking/bouncing.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours (both fronts)

Assumption: You’re replacing both front struts as complete assemblies (“quick-struts”).

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the Highlander on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ If you are not using complete strut assemblies: a coil spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the spring) can be dangerous if misused—keep your body out of the spring’s path.
• ⚠️ Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose—support it with a strap.
• ⚠️ After front strut replacement, you should get a 4-wheel alignment.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10-250 Nm range)
• Socket set (10mm-22mm, 1/2")
• Wrench set (10mm-22mm)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Extension set (3/8" and 1/2")
• Pry bar (24")
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Punch set
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Bungee cord
• Penetrating oil
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front upper strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
• Front strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts - Qty: 4
• Front sway bar end links - Replace in pairs (recommended if boots are torn) - Qty: 2

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, straighten the steering wheel, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar link nut.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Lift the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands at the proper lift points.
• Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket and remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Unbolt brackets from the strut

• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket (varies by bracket).
• Move the hose/wire aside so it won’t get stretched.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link (if needed for clearance)

• Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 17mm wrench (and hold the stud with an Allen key if it spins, depending on link design).
• If it fights you, use penetrating oil and wait.

Step 4: Mark camber bolt position (if equipped)

• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and steering knuckle around the upper strut-to-knuckle bolt area.
• This helps keep alignment close enough for a safe drive to the alignment shop.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the steering knuckle with a bungee cord so it doesn’t pull on the axle or brake hose.
• Remove the two large bolts/nuts connecting the strut to the knuckle using a 19mm-22mm socket and breaker bar.
• Tap bolts out using a hammer and punch.

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood.
• Remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Hold the strut with one hand as you remove the last nut so it doesn’t drop.

Step 7: Remove the strut assembly

• Pull the strut out of the wheel well.
• If it’s tight, use a pry bar carefully at the knuckle area for clearance.

Step 8: Install the new strut assembly

• Position the new strut into the tower and start the three upper nuts by hand using a 14mm socket (do not fully tighten yet).
• Align the strut with the knuckle and install the two lower bolts/nuts using the appropriate socket set.

Step 9: Torque fasteners (critical)

• Torque the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a torque wrench: Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs)
• Torque the upper strut mount nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs)
• If removed, torque sway bar end link nut using a torque wrench: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs)
• Reinstall/torque brake hose bracket bolts using a torque wrench: Torque to 29 Nm (21 ft-lbs)
• Reinstall/torque ABS wire bracket bolts using a torque wrench: Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the Highlander

• Install wheels and snug lug nuts with a 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs)

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Bounce-test the front end by pushing down on the fender—movement should settle quickly.
• ✅ Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks over bumps and verify straight braking.
• ✅ Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after ~50-100 miles of driving.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.