🔧 Optima - Strut Replacement

On your Optima, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (a combined shock + spring unit). The rear typically uses shocks (not struts), so the steps and parts differ depending on which end you’re doing.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours (per axle)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never loosen the center strut top nut with the spring loaded; the coil spring can release violently.
• ⚠️ Support the car on jack stands and work on level ground.
• ⚠️ If you disconnect any ABS/wheel-speed wiring, keep the key OFF to avoid faults.
• ⚠️ An alignment is required after front strut replacement.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2"
• Socket set (8mm-22mm)
• Wrench set (10mm-22mm)
• Hex key set (metric)
• Pry bar
• Needle-nose pliers
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front upper strut mount/bearing - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front bump stop & dust boot kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end links - Recommended if worn - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts - Replace if one-time-use per kit - Qty: 2-4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a breaker bar and correct-size socket.
• Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway link nut using penetrating oil.
• If reusing springs, plan spring compressor time.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the front of the car

• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front jack point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheels using a socket set (8mm-22mm).

Step 2: Unclip brackets and wiring from the strut

• Remove any brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a socket set (8mm-22mm) or wrench set (10mm-22mm).
• Use needle-nose pliers if there are clip-style retainers.
• Don’t let the caliper hose hang or twist.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link (if attached to the strut)

• Hold the end link stud with a hex key set (metric) while loosening the nut with a wrench set (10mm-22mm).
• Move the end link out of the way.
• An “end link” connects the sway bar to suspension.

Step 4: Mark and remove strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Use a paint marker to mark the strut’s position relative to the steering knuckle.
• Support the knuckle lightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop.
• Remove the two large bolts/nuts using a breaker bar 1/2" and socket set (8mm-22mm).
• If stuck, use a pry bar to help separate the strut from the knuckle.

Step 5: Remove the upper strut mount nuts and remove the strut

• Open the hood and locate the strut tower.
• Remove the upper mount nuts using a socket set (8mm-22mm).
• Carefully lower and remove the full strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 6: If you are NOT installing complete assemblies, swap the spring

• Install a spring compressor (specialty) on the coil spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the seats.
• Remove the center top nut using a socket set (8mm-22mm) while holding the shaft with a hex key set (metric) (as needed).
• Transfer parts to the new strut: spring, upper mount/bearing, dust boot, bump stop.
• Reinstall the top nut using a torque wrench 1/2" and socket set (8mm-22mm).
• Compress spring only as much as needed.

Step 7: Install the strut back into the car

• Position the strut into the strut tower and start the upper nuts by hand.
• Align the strut to the knuckle and install the lower bolts/nuts using a socket set (8mm-22mm).
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using a wrench set (10mm-22mm) and hex key set (metric).
• Reinstall all brackets/clips using a socket set (8mm-22mm) and needle-nose pliers.

Step 8: Final tightening and reassembly

• Reinstall wheels using a socket set (8mm-22mm).
• Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts using a torque wrench 1/2".
• Torque specs vary by hardware and setup—I’ll give the exact Optima specs once you answer the two questions below.

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✅ After Repair

• Road test at low speed first and listen for clunks.
• Recheck that brake hose/ABS wiring is clipped and not rubbing.
• Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor, front pair)

DIY Cost: $250-$800 (parts only, front pair)

You Save: $450-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

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Two quick questions so I can give you the exact torque specs and correct parts list:

• 🛠️ Are you replacing the front struts, the rear shocks, or all four?
• 🛠️ Are you installing complete quick-strut assemblies (prebuilt) or reusing your existing springs?