How to Replace Front Struts on a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for a smooth DIY strut install + alignment prep
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for a smooth DIY strut install + alignment prep


š§ Grand Cherokee - Front Strut Replacement
On your Grand Cherokee, the āstrutsā are the front suspension units that hold the coil spring and shock together. Replacing worn struts restores ride control, reduces clunks/bouncing, and helps tire wear.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
Quick check (2 questions): Are you replacing the front struts only or front + rear? And are you installing complete strut assemblies (recommended) or reusing the coil springs?
ā ļø Safety & Precautions
- ā ļø Support the SUV with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
- ā ļø If reusing springs, a coil spring compressor is required; stored spring energy can cause serious injury.
- ā ļø Keep the steering knuckle supported so the CV axle and brake hose arenāt pulled or over-bent.
- ā ļø Work on level ground, use wheel chocks, and keep hands clear when lowering/raising the knuckle.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
š§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- Ratchet
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench (20-250 ft-lbs range)
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 18mm wrench
- 21mm wrench
- Pry bar
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Coil spring compressor (specialty)
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
š© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount and bearing kit - If not included with assemblies - Qty: 2
- Front bump stop and dust boot kit - If not included - Qty: 2
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Recommended to replace - Qty: 2 sets
- Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
š Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front lug nuts 1 turn with a 21mm socket before lifting.
- Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nut now.
- If youāre reusing springs: set up the coil spring compressor (it clamps the coil so it canāt āpopā apart).
šØ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
- Set the SUV onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket.
Step 2: Free the hose/wire brackets from the strut
- Remove any brake hose/ABS wire retaining bolts from the strut using a 10mm socket or 13mm socket (varies by bracket).
- Use needle-nose pliers to release any push clips carefully.
- Tip: Donāt let the knuckle hang by hoses.
Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut
- Remove the end link nut at the strut using an 18mm wrench and 18mm socket.
- If the stud spins, hold it steady with the appropriate internal hex if equipped, while turning the nut with the 18mm wrench.
- Torque to 81 Nm (60 ft-lbs) during reassembly.
Step 4: Mark alignment reference (helps keep close to original)
- Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt positions relative to the knuckle.
- This is not a substitute for an alignment, but it helps you get to the shop safely.
Step 5: Support the steering knuckle
- Place a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the lower control arm or knuckle area to support it.
- Raise just enough to remove tension from the strut bolts.
Step 6: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts
- Remove the two lower bolts/nuts using an 21mm socket and 21mm wrench (some hardware uses 18mmāmatch whatās on your vehicle).
- Use a breaker bar if tight, then tap bolts out carefully.
- Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs) during reassembly.
Step 7: Remove the upper strut mount nuts
- Open the hood.
- At the top of the strut tower, remove the upper mount nuts using a 15mm socket (size can vary).
- Leave one nut loosely threaded until youāre ready to catch the strut.
- Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs) during reassembly.
Step 8: Remove the strut assembly
- Hold the strut with one hand and remove the last upper nut using a 15mm socket.
- Lower the strut down and out of the wheel well.
Step 9: If reusing the spring (skip if using complete assemblies)
- Install the coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the seats.
- Remove the center top nut using the correct socket and wrench setup for your strut.
- Transfer the mount/bearing, isolators, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut.
- Slowly release the compressor, making sure the spring ends sit in the pockets.
Step 10: Install the new strut
- Position the new strut into the tower and hand-thread the upper nuts using a 15mm socket.
- Align the lower strut bracket to the knuckle and slide the bolts in.
- Snug the lower bolts using a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench, matching your paint marks.
Step 11: Torque fasteners and reconnect brackets
- Torque the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a torque wrench: Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
- Torque the upper mount nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).
- Reconnect the sway bar end link using an 18mm wrench and 18mm socket: Torque to 81 Nm (60 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket or 13mm socket.
Step 12: Reinstall wheel and lower
- Install the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the SUV off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs).
ā After Repair
- Double-check that the brake hose and ABS wire are clipped back and not rubbing.
- Test drive slowly over small bumps and listen for any clunks.
- Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible (strut removal can change camber/toe).
- If you replaced only one side, expect handling/braking to feel uneven; replace in pairs.
š° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor + alignment)
DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only, plus alignment)
You Save: $600-$700 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
šÆ Ready to get started?
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