How to Replace Front Struts on a 2014 Chevrolet Malibu (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for a complete front strut replacement + alignment notes
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2014 Chevrolet Malibu (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for a complete front strut replacement + alignment notes


đź”§ Malibu - Front Strut Replacement
Your Malibu’s front struts support the vehicle’s weight, control bouncing, and keep the tires planted. Replacing worn struts restores ride control and helps prevent uneven tire wear.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never loosen the center nut on a strut top without controlling the spring.
- ⚠️ If reusing springs, use a coil spring compressor (specialty) correctly—stored spring force can cause severe injury.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid, level ground; never rely on a jack.
- ⚠️ After strut replacement, a 4-wheel alignment is strongly recommended to prevent pulling and tire wear.
- ⚠️ Keep the steering knuckle supported so the axle/ABS wire/brake hose aren’t stretched.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 20-200 ft-lbs
- Socket set 8mm-24mm (3/8" and 1/2")
- Wrench set 8mm-24mm
- 21mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 6mm Allen key
- Pry bar
- Hammer
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Bungee cord
- Coil spring compressor (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front complete strut assembly (quick strut) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front stabilizer (sway bar) end link - Optional but recommended if worn - Qty: 2
- Front strut-to-steering knuckle bolt and nut kit - Recommended - Qty: 4
- Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
- Penetrating oil - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
- Lift the front of the car with a floor jack and support it securely on jack stands.
- Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nut and let it soak a few minutes.
- Tip: Do one side at a time.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the wheel
- Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and take the wheel off.
Step 2: Unbolt brackets from the strut
- Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket.
- Unclip any plastic retainers using needle-nose pliers (pull straight to avoid breaking them).
Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut
- Hold the stud with a 6mm Allen key while loosening the nut with an 18mm wrench (some links may use 15mm).
- Push the link out of the strut bracket.
- Tip: If it spins, add more penetrating oil.
Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position
- Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-steering knuckle alignment at the bolt area.
- This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to the shop afterward.
Step 5: Support the steering knuckle
- Wrap a bungee cord around the knuckle and hook it to the spring or frame area so the knuckle doesn’t drop when bolts come out.
Step 6: Remove the strut-to-steering knuckle bolts
- Remove the two large bolts/nuts using an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench (some may be 21mm depending on hardware).
- Use a breaker bar if they’re tight.
- Tap the bolts out with a hammer while supporting the knuckle.
Step 7: Remove the strut top nuts
- Open the hood.
- Remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
- Hold the strut with one hand while removing the last nut so it doesn’t fall.
- Torque spec (install): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
Step 8: Remove the strut assembly
- Work the strut out of the wheel well.
- If it’s stuck at the knuckle, use a pry bar gently while wiggling the strut free.
Step 9: If you are NOT using complete strut assemblies (spring transfer)
- Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) onto the spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
- Remove the center top nut using the correct socket while holding the strut rod with an Allen key (tool varies by strut brand).
- Transfer the spring and mount to the new strut in the same orientation.
- Tip: If unsure, buy complete assemblies.
Step 10: Install the new strut
- Position the new strut into the tower and start the three top nuts by hand using a 13mm socket (do not fully tighten yet).
- Line up the strut with the steering knuckle and insert the two lower bolts.
- Install the nuts and tighten using an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench.
- Torque spec (strut-to-knuckle bolts): Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs)
- Torque spec (upper mount nuts): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
Step 11: Reconnect the sway bar end link
- Insert the link into the strut bracket.
- Tighten the nut using an 18mm wrench while holding the stud with a 6mm Allen key.
- Torque spec: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs)
Step 12: Reinstall brackets and clips
- Reattach the brake hose/ABS wire brackets using a 10mm socket.
- Make sure the hose and wire are not twisted or rubbing the tire.
- Torque spec: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs)
Step 13: Reinstall the wheel
- Install the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
- Torque spec (lug nuts): Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs)
Step 14: Repeat on the other side
- Repeat Steps 1–13 for the other front strut.
âś… After Repair
- Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and confirm nothing rubs, pulls, or stretches.
- Test drive slowly first and listen for clunks over small bumps.
- Schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench.
- Tip: New struts can feel stiffer at first.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor + alignment)
DIY Cost: $300-$800 (parts only, plus alignment)
You Save: $600-$800 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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